yes. But this is not a handyman level project. It is suggested you "Call a pro." What you're looking for is not another "main breaker" but a "sub-panel" that is fed by a "feeder" cable from the main panel. Have your electrician calculate the load you'll need in the out-building, then design and install a new feeder circuit and sub-panel for it.
One and half breaker system is an improvement on the double breaker system to effect saving in the number of circuit breakers. For every 2 circuits, 1 spare breaker is provided: Two feeders are fed from two buses via their associated circuit breakers and these two feeders are coupled by a third circuit breaker which is called tie breaker. During failure of any of the two feeder breakers, the power is fed via the breaker of the second feeder and main breaker (tie breaker).
It will if the 100 amp distribution board is a 20 circuit board. Ten spaces for the 240 volt breakers and seven spaces for the 120 volt breakers. There are two types of 100 amp breaker boards, one rated at 100 percent and the other at 80 percent. Depending on what rating on the panel board you are using will govern the maximum amount of current that can be legally drawn from the board. This breaker board rating will also govern the size of the main breaker installed and the wire size to feed the board, either 100 amp wire or 80 amp wire. The second consideration is what are the connected loads to the breakers, with the total of seventeen breakers, the board can only supply as much amperage as the main breaker will allow.
No, it would not be safe because 250v is too high for that breaker. <<>> In North America all household breakers are rated at 120/240 volts. A 250 volt 15 amp breaker would would be a two pole breaker and take up two slots in the distribution panel. This can be pulled out and replaced with two separate 15 amp breakers or one 15 amp breaker and a slot panel filler to cover the second slot.
NO! The circuit breaker will not trip at the exact same instant and the one that trips will be interrupting the full 24V which is 2x it's rating. The second breaker will never trip.
Usually the breaker's shunt trip coil is tied to a corresponding current transformer that is sized to the amperage that is allowed to be passed through the breaker. These types of breakers can also be connected into a distribution monitoring device. If the monitor detects a phase reversal or phase loss or voltage rise or drop the breakers shunt trip coil is remotely energized and isolates equipment down stream from the fault. Shunt trip coil circuits are also used as safety circuits where the situation calls for only one breaker to be energized at a time. If the second breaker is inadvertently closed, this would allow both breakers to be on, the second breaker's auxiliary contacts that are an internally part of that breaker will close the safety circuit and energize the shunt trip in the first breaker to causing it to open. So as you can see the two wires could be part of many wiring configurations depending on what situation calls for.
A circuit breaker can go bad from being tripped too many times. Many people don't understand that the tripping of a circuit breaker indicates a problem that needs to be corrected. They usually just reset the circuit breaker, leading to a very common second (or third, or fourth) trip. Circuit breakers tripping are for the prevention of fire due to excessive heat in the circuit. They're not supposed to be tripped repeatedly. This can wear the breaker out. Believe it or not, I've also seen circuit breakers fail to re-energize after being turned off. I speculate this was actually caused by the breaker never having been cycled (it was a main breaker), and the time elapsed since it was installed. Electrical equipment doesn't last forever. It's the same as anything else.
The main breaker is there to act as a fallback main circuit breaker to shut off the electric current automatically if a fault condition arises such that any of the other circuit breakers fail to operate. It can do this because the main breaker feeds all the other circuit breakers in the panel with electrical current.A second - and equally important - reason the main breaker is there is to allow anyone to quickly and safely stop electricity from reaching all the other circuit breakers that protect the flow of electric current to lighting circuits, power circuits and any other branch circuits for electrical appliances. All the other circuit breakers are connected so as to receive their current from the main breaker.The main breaker is situated on the main breaker panel which is situated close to the incoming electrical service entrance of any home, office, shop, factory, site, etc.
The first breaker's ground is bad, the second one is supplying the ground for the outlet to have power, thus one is finding the ground somehow to the outlet to have power. both breakers have to be on for the outlet to work. NOT A GOOD thing, suggest a weekend warrior, installed the electric, I would have a qualified electrician trace each outlet in the house and replace ALL outlets and switches. Inspect all junction boxes and check connections. I don't want to read about your house burning down in the paper..
It Means it provides or contains conductors and or Overcurrent Protection (breakers/Fuses) that have the ability of carrying 30 Amperes of Electricity. Amps/Amperes is how much electricity in Volume Flows through a given conductor or breaker every second
When an electrical appliance becomes faulty or ground fault exists, and excessive amount of electric current flows and can produce a large amount of heat.If the excessive electric current is over a certain value the miniature circuit breaker will "TRIP" automatically to break the flow of current in order to protect the electrical appliance - and its service wiring - and to help prevent a home fire.A miniature circuit breaker is more convenient to use than a fuse because you only need to switch it "OFF" then back to "ON" to reset it, so you don't normally have to replace it like you would have to replace a fuse.A more technical explanationMost circuit breakers operate on two principles.First, current flow through the breaker heats a bi-metallic element. The more current, the more heat generated. at a certain temperature, the bi-metal element bends, tripping the breaker. This detection element catches overloads that are just slightly more than the breaker's rating. It takes anywhere from a few minutes to several tens of minutes to trip in this mode.The second detection method is magnetic. Current flow through the breaker flows through a small magnetic coil. At a certain threshold, the magnetic field is strong enough to move the trip arm, tripping the breaker. This detection method is almost instantaneous, and is usually set for a very large overload.Many breakers combine these two methods into one breaker. Others, typically used for large electric motor protection, will use one or the other.There are also specialized breakers designed to detect fault current to ground, called GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) and arc-flash breakers.
The main breaker switch for a home is usually located in a breaker box attached to a side wall outside the home. The breaker box is usually situated about 5-6 feet up the wall and is usually gray. The main breaker switch will be in that box. Open up the breaker box by pulling on the front bottom or side of the breaker box door. The main breaker switch is usually located near the top of all the breakers and is usually the largest. Also, it may be named, "Main". <<>> In Canada the main service disconnect is on the inside of the home, which is a more secure position so that the home can not be shut off by anyone from the outside of the home. There are two types of disconnects, one being a free standing switch that is fed from the outside meter base. These types of switches are not used much any more due to the cost factor. It usually contains fuses as an overload protection for the service. The second type of disconnect is contained within the branch circuit panel. This type of installation is known as a combination panel which housed both the main breaker and the branch circuit breakers. The top of the combination panel still obtains its feed from the outside meter base.
First unplug the TV. Some TVs may still draw current when off, but not enough to cause a breaker to trip. However you still want to make sure you don't fry your TV as you troubleshoot. If there is nothing plugged in to any outlet on the branch circuit and there are no light fixtures the problem is a bad breaker or in the wiring. The ideal is to have an electrician troubleshoot since you can kill yourself while messing with the breaker panel if you don't know what you are doing. Turn breaker off, make sure with a meter that the breaker is no longer hot and remove the wire by unscrewing the lug screw. Do the same for another breaker of the same rating. Hook the first wire removed to the second breaker. Turn on the second breaker. If it doesn't trip the problem is first breaker, and you need to replace it. If the second breaker trips it is the wiring. With the second wire and breaker restored to original connection, leave the first wire disconnected. Measure the resistance with a meter of the disconnected first wire to neutral which are where white wires are connected in panel. If you have everything unplugged there should be an open circuit. If not you need to start disconnecting wires in outlets and fixtures on the branch circuit and determine where the short is. Since breaker stays on for 30 seconds it is likely the breaker since a dead short would trip breaker immediately. The exception would be a short that is causing a current to flow that is very close to the rating of the breaker. If the breaker is good then I suspect you have something plugged in you don't know about.