The American system is 110 Volts and the UK (plus some other EU countries) are about 240 Volts. The formula is Volts X Amps = Watts. Don't panic, that's as hard as it gets. The problem is this, that for 240 Volts a current of .25 Amps is needed to light a 60 Watt bulb (240 X .25 = 60). At 110 Volts this would be about 110 X .5 = 60 giving over twice the Amps for the same Watts. The more Amps, the heavier the wires needed to carry the power. So, to be safe the fitting would have to be rewired. If in doubt contact an experienced electrician to rewire it for you. Better a few dollars than dialling 911 because the house is on fire!
There should be two wires in the box, black and white and possibly a bare one depending on the age of the wiring in the house. The fixture has two screws on the base. One wire goes on each screw. If there are short wires on the fixture, black to black and white to white. If there is a bare ground wire in the house box, it attaches to the body of the fixture. If there is no ground screw on the fixture, do not worry about it.
Just tuck it away in the box. Unless you run ground wires throughout the house it won't serve any purpose.
Sorry, don't know if there is any "international code" but there are separate European and US wiring standards which are known as "codes" or "regulations". Many countries around the world use wiring regulations similar to the European system.Most of the others use wiring codes similar, if not identical, to the US system.EuropeLive: BrownNeutral: BlueEarth: Green/YellowUSALive: Black for 1st "Hot" leg, Red for 2nd "Hot" legNeutral: WhiteEarth: Green or Bare Wire
Bad ground connection. Corrosion on wire. Broken or cracked wire. Bad Switch. Mouse chewed through wire. just a guess but it may be faulty wiring in the fixture itself you can try to figure it out first try to problem solve it.did you replace an older one?is it a new fixture?did it work before or after you replaced it?andis it a fairly old one?you can replace it as a last resort.
If you don't know how to install light fixture, I don't recommend that you do it by yourself. The installation theory is actually very simple - all you need to do is attach fixture on the ceiling (or any other place) and then connect the electrical wires (usually there are two of them). After that it's good to put the light cover over the fixture to improve the appearance.
Ballasts can be quite different even if you order a replacement part for a specific fixture. You need to follow the wiring diagram on the new ballast. If this is confusing or not easy to follow, you need a competent electrician to do this for you.
It sounds like you are describing either a slimline or dc recessed base type of fluorescent fixture. There is a wiring diagram on the ballast of both of these types of fixtures. Do your wiring the same as what is shown and you will have no problem.
The conductors on and in the lighting fixture should have an insulation rating of 105 degrees C. The supply conductors to the junction box that the fixture is hung from or connected to should have an insulation rating of 90 degree C.
There will always be a way to dismount the fixture. Look for some screws, they are usually hidden from sight.
If these are all the wires you have then this would be a great assumption. It assumes also that everything before the fixture is wired correctly and with commonly used color schemes.
Switching a light fixture requires the following steps. First, remove the old fixture. Second, you must disconnect the wiring. Third, a junction box must be installed. Finally, a new fixture must be installed. Detailed instructions can be found here: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/replace-a-bathroom-light-fixture/index.html
The American system is 110 Volts and the UK (plus some other EU countries) are about 240 Volts. The formula is Volts X Amps = Watts. Don't panic, that's as hard as it gets. The problem is this, that for 240 Volts a current of .25 Amps is needed to light a 60 Watt bulb (240 X .25 = 60). At 110 Volts this would be about 110 X .5 = 60 giving over twice the Amps for the same Watts. The more Amps, the heavier the wires needed to carry the power. So, to be safe the fitting would have to be rewired. If in doubt contact an experienced electrician to rewire it for you. Better a few dollars than dialling 911 because the house is on fire!
Wiring Up a Light FixtureWhen remodeling a dining room, the light fixture can become a hazard if it is hung low enough. Banging one's head on a chandelier or heavy light cover hurts. If a light bulb breaks, it can become dangerous with broken glass in the eyes and under the feet. Wiring up a low-hanging light fixture takes a attention to a few details.Remove the table and chairs so access to the light fixture chain is unhampered. Set up a stepladder close enough to the fixture that it is easily worked on without the person leaning away from it. If the light covers are in the way, remove them to a safe area. Determine how much to raise the light fixture so people can walk under it safely.For raising the fixture temporarily, use a piece of baling wire or heavy construction wire. Place the wire through two of the chain links and lightly twist with a pair of pliers. When the work is over, remove the wire and lower the light fixture.If permanently raising the fixture is desired, purchase a connector link from the DIY store that matches the light fixture chain. As with the wire, attach the connector to two of the links and leave in place.This can be done with any light fixture in the home, on the patio, entryway or porch. For lights hung with cable, use a hose clamp spray-painted to match the cable. Do not over-tighten.
There should be two wires in the box, black and white and possibly a bare one depending on the age of the wiring in the house. The fixture has two screws on the base. One wire goes on each screw. If there are short wires on the fixture, black to black and white to white. If there is a bare ground wire in the house box, it attaches to the body of the fixture. If there is no ground screw on the fixture, do not worry about it.
Bulbs could be defective. Ballast could be bad or you could have loose wiring either in the fixture itself or where it is connected to power. Also check the ends and make sure the factory wiring is secure. These are cheaply made lights that do have wiring problems.
To install a new fixture to replace the one that was removed reconnect the two hot wires together and then reconnect the two neutral wires together. Place the two wires from the new fixture to the corresponding wire colours that you just spliced together. This wiring should be down stream from the light switch. When the switch is turned on the new fixture should light. If this is not the scenario of your question then more information needs to be given.
At that point, you should verify the home wiring; make certain that the black wire IS, in fact, the "hot" wire and that the white wire IS in fact the neutral. If the house is wired properly, connect the new fixture with "black to black and white to white." If you aren't certain that the house wiring was done properly, contact a local electrician to perform the work for you. Connecting a light fixture improperly can be dangerous to you and to anyone who subsequently changes a bulb or otherwise comes in contact with the fixture.