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If you are taking the fixture down yourself, please be careful. BEFORE ANYTHING ELSE, MAKE SURE THE BREAKER IS TRIPPED ON THE LINE YOU ARE WORKING ON. DO NOT RELY ON A SWITCH BEING IN THE "OFF" POSITION. IN OLD CONSTRUCTION, FIXTURES WERE OFTEN WIRED HOT WITH ONLY A SWITCH LOOP TO THE SWITCH. Ok, you have to start by "reverse engineering" - you have to figure out how the fixture was attached to the wall or ceiling. Once you've got it off the wall or ceiling, but before you take the wires off, look at what you've got. IIf the fixture and the wiring in the house is newer, you'll see a white wire wired to a white wire and a black wire (and maybe a blue one) wired to a black wire. You may see the green, or grounding wire, or it may be just tucked away somewhere. If your fixture is not color coded, but your house wiring is, get some masking tape and a sharpie and label which fixture wire was attached to which color wiring in the house. If your neither your fixture nor your house wiring was color coded, then you're dealing with a very simple fixture and the direction of the flow of current is not such a big deal. Simple light fixtures with simple switches in them can be like that. So after everything is labeled, go ahead and disconnect the wires. If you're not replacing the fixture with something newer, make sure you wire-nut the loose wires in the wall and put a nice, solid, blank cover plate over the box in the wall. Ok, now comes the fun part. TO WIRE UP THE FIXTURE: seriously, the easiest way to do it is to go to a local hardware store, old fixture in hand, and ask somebody to show you what to do. Once you've done it once, you'll find out it's SUPER DUPER EASY and you'll be fine. You can pick up really cool fixtures from Habitat for Humanity "ReStores" which sell salvaged building supplies. If you totally disassemble a light fixture, rub it down a little with steel wool, and spray a few coats of rustoleum on it, you can get some pretty jazzy fixtures for very, very little cost. Take lots of pics with your digital camera while reverse engineering to help you in the reassembly state. This can be fun to do! I've converted some ugly old dark metallic and shiny brass finished fixtures to plug-ins - wall sconces make great reading lamps that way. ANd the ReStore has all kinds of funky globes for the light fixtures for just a few bucks each. Have fun! <><><> As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Wiki User
∙ 14y ago
Wiki User
∙ 13y agoThe wires to the sensor will be black red and white. To connect a plug to the load side of the sensor the red and white wires are needed. Extend these wires to the new outlet and connect them white wire to the silver coloured screw and the black wire to the brass coloured screw. Connect the ground wire between the sensor mounting box and the new receptacle junction box. Make the ground wire long enough to pick up the receptacle junction box's back terminal screw and without cutting the wire off over to the ground terminal on the receptacle.
Wiki User
∙ 12y agoAnswer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.
To convert a new hard wire light fixture to a plug in type, first shut off the breaker to isolate the power from this fixture. Disconnect the fixture from the hard wiring. Install a receptacle junction box on the end of the hardwired cable set. Install a new receptacle of a type suitable for the fixture's voltage and amperage draw. On the fixture install a flexible cab-tire type SO or SOW cable. Use a strain relief connector to hold the cable into the fixture. Install a plug (cap) of the same configuration to match the newly installed receptacle. Plug the fixture in, turn on the breaker. Now you have a portable fixture that can be moved if necessary.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Wiki User
∙ 11y agoYes, but it will violate the warranty and any UL or other safety listings on the device if you use it in any way that has not been tested and approved. That means the insurance company doesn't have to pay when you burn your house down.
For example, you could attach the fixture to an "exterior" box for wet locations (which have plugs in all of the holes), get a properly sized cord and feed it through a properly specified "strain relief" fastened in one of the holes, and put a plug on the other end of the cord, making sure the "hot" side of the polarized (if not also grounding) plug is connected to the "hot" lead (typically black or brown) in the fixture.
Your local fire inspector and insurance company will not be impressed.
Wiki User
∙ 11y agoJust cut off the male plug and wire it directly. Black to black, white to white, ground to ground. If it is lamp cord where both wires are the same color the wire with no ridges is the hot black wire.
Wiki User
∙ 9y agoThe feeder for the hard wired device has to be disconnected from the equipment that it is now feeding. This feeder then has to be terminated in a junction box that has the ability to house the new receptacle. This new receptacle has to have the proper current rating as that of the existing feeder conductor. A new power cord and matching plug that matches the receptacle configuration is then connected to the equipment that was hard wired.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Wiki User
∙ 16y agoYou should be able to as long as you can mount the fixture. Then just remove the plug and hard wire the wires right into the circuit.
Wiki User
∙ 11y agoDisconnect it from the hard wired source and install a male plug on the fixture. Small blade is black hot, wider blade is white neutral.
Wiki User
∙ 9y agoBy installing what is called a pig tail wire with a plug on the end.
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Can you convert a 2 prong plug-in light into a hard wired fixture?
Sure, sounds like a creative way to use an old favorite table-top fixture and save a few bucks too. There would be a few things I would consider. First and foremost, be sure the "2 prong plug-in light" is made for outdoor use if you plan to mount this outdoors! Secondly, how are you going to securely mount this fixture to a ceiling or wall? Designing a custom base, may end up being more trouble than it's worth. After installation the fixture should be flush against the surface, and everything tucked inside. Next, I wouldn't forget, or leave out the ground. Even it is a 2 prong light. If your going to mount this on a wall, ceiling, or anywhere, chances are you already have a hole cut out and "2-conductor with ground" Romex type wiring ready at the instillation area. Where to attach the bare ground wire, maybe too risky if the fixture is not an metal chassis. Note: Assuming that there will only be one fixture on this branch circuit, then go with a gauge of Romex similar to that of the fixture cord. If using many in series or parallel , reference a NEC handbook for detailed guidance.
What does hard wire mean?
Hard wiring something is when you terminate the device or equipment directly with the cable/wires that are coming from the panel. Say for example: You have a 40' length of 10-3 M.C. cable (or similar) coming from your panel to feed power to the oven. In the case that the oven needs to be hard wired , there will be a junction box in the back , bottom, portion of the oven or an insulated cord with uncapped wires hanging out in which (either way) you need to splice the 10-3 cable to the wire ends of the oven inside that junction box (or the junction box that is installed in the wall). If the oven didn't need to be hard wired than you would normally install a 30-60 amp receptacle/outlet in a 4x4 box in the wall and you would terminate the 10-3 cable to it and the oven would come with a cord and plug that you would just plug into the wall. So, an easy way to think of it is: If the equipment needs to be hard wired than it will not have a plug on the end of the cord/cable. And if it doesn't need to be hard wired than you will just plug it into an outlet.
Can you use 40 amp breaker for your lights and plug ins?
If you are referring to house wiring then the answer is no. A breaker protects the wire size that is connected to the breaker. In home wiring most homes are wired with a #14 wire which is rated at 15 amps. That is why the wire is protected by a 15 amp breaker. The correct wire size to connect to a 40 amp breaker is a #8. This size wire is too large to connect to receptacles an light fixture terminals.
Is a 110 rated light fixture different from a 220 rated light fixture?
no but connector used in 110 rated have to be different in 220 rated system ------------------------ They are very much different. If you place a 110v rated fixture on a 220v circuit, all else being equal, you will double your current flow and odds are it isn't designed to carry twice the current. It will burn out. On the other hand, if you place a 220v rated fixture on a 110v circuit, all else being equal, you will only draw half as many amps as it is designed for and likely won't get any light. It won't burn out, but it almost certainly won't work. There are many fluorescent light fixtures that are rated for more than one voltage, however. They have internal mechanisms that allow you to connect them to different voltages and still work properly. But the fixture still has to be rated for the voltage that you connect to it. The first answer above is correct in that cord and plug connections in the same installation (home, building, business) must be different for different voltages.
How do you wire a wall plug socket?
Wall receptacles are wired in parallel. black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
How do you convert a plug in fixture to a hard-wired fixture?
Disconnect it from the hard wired source and install a male plug on the fixture. Small blade is black hot, wider blade is white neutral.
What is a hard wired electrical installation?
Hard wired is where something (Like most ceiling light fixtures) are wired directly to the circuit breaker panel. This is apposed to something like a lamp or a vacuum that uses a plug going in to a wall outlet.
Can you convert a light fixture into a plug in?
Yes. For more information open discussion question page with more details as to what you want to do.
How do you know if clothes dryer is hard wired?
Hard wired means that there is no plug and receptacle in the circuit powering the dryer. What you will find is a metal jacketed cable that will come out of the wall or floor and go right into the dryer.
How do you convert a wall light to a plug-in?
Simply replace the light fixture with a plugin. There is most likely a box behind the light that will either accept a plug as is or a cover place can be used to allow the use of a plug in that box.
Does a 2 horsepower rotary converter plug into 120 single phase and convert it to plug in a 3 phase outlet?
All my experience with rotary phase converters have been in converting 240 volt single phase into 240 volt three phase. They all were hard wired into their respective systems, so my answer is no.
What does hard-wired mean?
Hard wiring something is when you terminate the device or equipment directly with the cable/wires that are coming from the panel. Say for example: You have a 40' length of 10-3 M.C. cable (or similar) coming from your panel to feed power to the oven. In the case that the oven needs to be hard wired , there will be a junction box in the back , bottom, portion of the oven or an insulated cord with uncapped wires hanging out in which (either way) you need to splice the 10-3 cable to the wire ends of the oven inside that junction box (or the junction box that is installed in the wall). If the oven didn't need to be hard wired than you would normally install a 30-60 amp receptacle/outlet in a 4x4 box in the wall and you would terminate the 10-3 cable to it and the oven would come with a cord and plug that you would just plug into the wall. So, an easy way to think of it is: If the equipment needs to be hard wired than it will not have a plug on the end of the cord/cable. And if it doesn't need to be hard wired than you will just plug it into an outlet.
Can you convert a 2 prong plug-in light into a hard wired fixture?
Sure, sounds like a creative way to use an old favorite table-top fixture and save a few bucks too. There would be a few things I would consider. First and foremost, be sure the "2 prong plug-in light" is made for outdoor use if you plan to mount this outdoors! Secondly, how are you going to securely mount this fixture to a ceiling or wall? Designing a custom base, may end up being more trouble than it's worth. After installation the fixture should be flush against the surface, and everything tucked inside. Next, I wouldn't forget, or leave out the ground. Even it is a 2 prong light. If your going to mount this on a wall, ceiling, or anywhere, chances are you already have a hole cut out and "2-conductor with ground" Romex type wiring ready at the instillation area. Where to attach the bare ground wire, maybe too risky if the fixture is not an metal chassis. Note: Assuming that there will only be one fixture on this branch circuit, then go with a gauge of Romex similar to that of the fixture cord. If using many in series or parallel , reference a NEC handbook for detailed guidance.
Can an inverter power a RV air conditioner?
Depends on the capabilities of the inverter. One you plug into the cigarette lighter won't be able to - anything with enough amperage to do this will be hard wired.
What does hard wire mean?
Hard wiring something is when you terminate the device or equipment directly with the cable/wires that are coming from the panel. Say for example: You have a 40' length of 10-3 M.C. cable (or similar) coming from your panel to feed power to the oven. In the case that the oven needs to be hard wired , there will be a junction box in the back , bottom, portion of the oven or an insulated cord with uncapped wires hanging out in which (either way) you need to splice the 10-3 cable to the wire ends of the oven inside that junction box (or the junction box that is installed in the wall). If the oven didn't need to be hard wired than you would normally install a 30-60 amp receptacle/outlet in a 4x4 box in the wall and you would terminate the 10-3 cable to it and the oven would come with a cord and plug that you would just plug into the wall. So, an easy way to think of it is: If the equipment needs to be hard wired than it will not have a plug on the end of the cord/cable. And if it doesn't need to be hard wired than you will just plug it into an outlet.
How is a german plug wired?
you put the wires under the screws and tighten them
Is a food processor kinetic?
I think its electrical because its wired to a plug
