One thing that most home owners don't understand, although the NEC is quite clear on this, is that if the sub-panel is in a detached building, it gets its own ground. You don't run a ground wire from the main panel to the sub-panel. Rather, you run only the neutral and two hots, and bond the neutral to the ground within the sub-panel, then ground it to an 8 foot long rod pounded into the ground, or other appropriate ground.
This is all quite different from the sub-panel being in the same building as the main panel. In that case, you run a separate ground wire, and don't bond the neutral and the ground at the sub-panel.
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
All depends on what type of equipment you are going to operate in the garage. I would suggest you call an electrician. You can connect to your existing 100 amp circuit if there is an empty spot for a breaker.
Short answer is Yes. If a garage conversion is carried out you no longer own a link detached house but a semi-detached, indeed if the next house did the same thing you would then live in a terriced house not a link detached
A link detached house is a house that is only joined to another by a garage or just ground flor rom :(((((
No. Any connections to the detached garage have to be after the main disconnect of your house panel. You have two options here. You can replace meter with a meter disconnect combo and have the main feed your house and add a breaker to feed the garage or You could install a 400 ap service and place two disconnects at the meter. one for the house and one for the garage. unless you are going to have a serious electrial load in the garage you sould just feed off the panel in the house for cost effectiveness.
Adjacent detached properties which do not have a party wall, but which are linked by the garage(s) and so forming a single frontage.
You will need a breaker in your house panel to protect the wire feeders that supply the panel in the garage. The terminology for this setup is called a sub panel. At the garage end you will need a disconnect at that panel as the garage is not attached to the house. You might want to consider a 100 amp combination panel at the garage as it has a built in main disconnect and spaces for 12 or 24 breakers depending on the size of panel you select.
A single house is otherwise known as a detached house. A double house is a semi-detached house. Semi detached houses have one shared built wall whereas a detached has space all around it..
Does the garage have a separate breaker box or fuse box inside? Is there a separate power feed for the garage? In the 70's and 80's some cities were allowing aluminum wiring INSIDE residences. If the wire from the main fuse/breaker panel is aluminum there is a real possibility that you might have a bad connection between the fuse box or breaker panel and the outlets in the garage.
No. It can be mentioned in the ad as "detached ?? sq ft garage" and you can include "?? sq ft of land" but not mislead the buyers into thinking the actual house has so much square footage when it is not.
The home and other structures, such as a barn, shed, pool, detached garage, etc. that is located on the land to be sold, unless it is specified not to be sold.
Length x width of the interior edge of the foundation. Also, add the dimension of any attached enclosed garage in the figure. Non-enclosed or detached garage or car port do not apply.