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Wow! This is interesting!
Even though non-grounding, non-polarized outlets may still be for sale in some hardware stores, nowadays every newly-installed outlet should have a ground.
A lot of homeowners may want to save money but, if the wires are larger than 18 gauge, leave them alone and call a professional to save families and homes from electrocutions and fires.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
You need a 40 amp breaker for a range. From a 40 amp breaker, standard ranges have a three conductor #8 copper wire installed, terminating in a three pole four wire grounding receptacle. NEMA number 14-50R.
Simple. Your main electrical panel will have a "main breaker". This will be a two pole breaker, usually at the top of the panel. It will have a number on the breaker "handle" such as 150 or 200. This is the maximum number of amps your panel can supply. Most newer homes, 1975 and newer have a 200 amp service.
No, a circuit breaker is a safety device that is used in a circuit to limit the amount of current in an overload or short circuit condition. The number on a breaker is the top end current that the breaker will handle before opening the circuit.
No, a double pole 50 amp breaker protects a 240 volt supply at 50 amps. The number that is on the handle of the breaker is the amperage that the breaker will trip at if an overload occurs on the circuit.
There are several factors: the outlet configuration and connection, the supply wiring, and the breaker. It has been suggested that: :The 240v gauge wire may be thicker than the 120 volt gauge. The 120 is 12 gauge and the 240 is probably at least 10 gauge. The wire itself will probably be okay. The outlet will have to be changed to a regular receptacle. The breaker for that circuit will have to changed to a 20 amp instead of the 30amp or so that it is now. I hope this helps you some. However, this ignores the fact that you can deliver twice as much power at 240v than 120v using the same rating wire and breakers. P= v x i; double the voltage, double the power for the same number of rated amperes. In any event, the cable into the breaker box will have to be disconnected from the two-pole breaker and the black (hot) wire connected to a single-pole breaker (say, 20A), and the neutral (white) wire connected to the neutral bar. There should also be a bare or green grounding wire connected to the grounding (or neutral) bar. The supply wiring must be at least 12 AWG or larger diameter (i.e., a lower number is larger diameter). In an ordinary north American receptacle, the black "hot" wire goes to the narrow slot, the white "neutral" goes to the larger slot, and the bare "grounding" wire goes to the third prong, often via the green screw marked "ground". Local code may dictate exactly how grounding connections are made (i.e., directly from the cable or with green pigtail from metal outlet box connected to the supply ground and the device ground). If possible, install a GFCI for added safety. Needless to say, any necessary rewiring of breakers and outlets should be done carefully by a qualified electrician, and you may need a permit, if not an inspection. It is also possible that someone illegally connected more than one outlet to the same circuit, so you should make sure there are none before any conversion project is undertaken, and account for any "extra" wires in the outlet box.
Without knowing model number, i'd hazzard a guess one of the wires is a grounding point, and the other two are your 110 volts from your 220v 2 pole breaker. If you figure out which one is ground, the two others can be interchanged to give the motor the right spin direction.
You need a 40 amp breaker for a range. From a 40 amp breaker, standard ranges have a three conductor #8 copper wire installed, terminating in a three pole four wire grounding receptacle. NEMA number 14-50R.
A 40 amp breaker is used in conjunction with AWG # 8 copper wire. The black and red wires are connected to the breaker. The ground wire is connected to the ground bar and the white wire is connected to the neutral bar.
50 is the ANSI device number for an instantaneous overcurrent relay. The G suffix stands for "ground." A 50G protection relay trips the circuit breaker without time delay when it detects a ground fault on the circuit.
The number of degrees the breaker cam rotates from the time the breaker points close until they open again.
The number that is on a breaker is the amount of amperage that the breaker can deliver before it trips. This is the same regardless of how many poles the breaker is.
Simple. Your main electrical panel will have a "main breaker". This will be a two pole breaker, usually at the top of the panel. It will have a number on the breaker "handle" such as 150 or 200. This is the maximum number of amps your panel can supply. Most newer homes, 1975 and newer have a 200 amp service.
No, a circuit breaker is a safety device that is used in a circuit to limit the amount of current in an overload or short circuit condition. The number on a breaker is the top end current that the breaker will handle before opening the circuit.
No, a double pole 50 amp breaker protects a 240 volt supply at 50 amps. The number that is on the handle of the breaker is the amperage that the breaker will trip at if an overload occurs on the circuit.
There are several factors: the outlet configuration and connection, the supply wiring, and the breaker. It has been suggested that: :The 240v gauge wire may be thicker than the 120 volt gauge. The 120 is 12 gauge and the 240 is probably at least 10 gauge. The wire itself will probably be okay. The outlet will have to be changed to a regular receptacle. The breaker for that circuit will have to changed to a 20 amp instead of the 30amp or so that it is now. I hope this helps you some. However, this ignores the fact that you can deliver twice as much power at 240v than 120v using the same rating wire and breakers. P= v x i; double the voltage, double the power for the same number of rated amperes. In any event, the cable into the breaker box will have to be disconnected from the two-pole breaker and the black (hot) wire connected to a single-pole breaker (say, 20A), and the neutral (white) wire connected to the neutral bar. There should also be a bare or green grounding wire connected to the grounding (or neutral) bar. The supply wiring must be at least 12 AWG or larger diameter (i.e., a lower number is larger diameter). In an ordinary north American receptacle, the black "hot" wire goes to the narrow slot, the white "neutral" goes to the larger slot, and the bare "grounding" wire goes to the third prong, often via the green screw marked "ground". Local code may dictate exactly how grounding connections are made (i.e., directly from the cable or with green pigtail from metal outlet box connected to the supply ground and the device ground). If possible, install a GFCI for added safety. Needless to say, any necessary rewiring of breakers and outlets should be done carefully by a qualified electrician, and you may need a permit, if not an inspection. It is also possible that someone illegally connected more than one outlet to the same circuit, so you should make sure there are none before any conversion project is undertaken, and account for any "extra" wires in the outlet box.
Add up your amps to calculate your breaker size. Add up your loads (amps), divide by 0.8, and choose that size breaker. If that number does not correspond to a standard size breaker you go to the next higher standard size breaker.
The number of degrees the breaker cam rotates from the time the breaker points close until they open again.