The Bold and the Beautiful - 1987 1-4539 was released on: USA: 26 April 2005
About 14.9 (14.8917323) feet.
It is composite.
The curb weight of the 2007 Acura MDX is 4539 lbs..
no because it has an "odd" number at the end of it. if it had a 2, 4, 6 ,8 at the end. then it would be prime
The address of the Manteca Library is: 320 W. Center St., Manteca, 95336 4539
The address of the Manitowoc Public Library is: 707 Quay St., Manitowoc, 54220 4539
The nearest thousands place to 4,539 is 5,000.
The distance between the above mentioned places is 4539 miles approximately. This distance is straight path from one place to the other place. There might be a slight difference between the actual distance and the above mentioned distance because of the route chosen.
The phone number of the Prairie-River District - Kooskia Community is: 208-926-4539.
The phone number of the Poplar Bluff Railroad Museum is: 573-785-4539.
The phone number of the Georgia O'Keeffe Home And Studio is: 505-685-4539.
There is no Department of Cosmetology, but there is a Cosmetology Board that might be what you need. Their telephone number is (480) 784-4539.
The Stranger from Arizona - 1938 is rated/received certificates of: USA:Approved (PCA #4539) USA:TV-PG (TV rating)
Lick a tree and hope it doesnt kill you
The address of the Lewisburg-North Logan Historical Commission Inc is: 4539 Stuart Chapel Road, Lewisburg, KY 42256-9731
yeah here is my friend code 2279-6301-3378 after you enter this go to wi-fi club in the middle of the Pokemon center
1 lbm = .4539 Kg 1 Kg = 2.205 lbm Algebraic Steps / Dimensional Analysis Formula____ lb*1 kg 2.2046 lb=? kg
Possession of less than eight ounces of marijuana is a misdemeanor, punishable by up to one year in jail and a fine of up to $500. For subsequent offenses, the penalties increase to 1 - 5 years in jail and a fine of $1,000 - $10,000.from:http://norml.org/index.cfm?wtm_view=&Group_ID=4539
STANAG 4539 modem waveform and third-generation automatic link establishment (ALE 3G) in line with STANAG 4538 to its R&S M3SR Series 4100 and R&S M3TR families of software defined radios. In conjunction with the firmly established STANAG 5066 standard, the radios now provide interoperable data exchange via shortwave between allied forces. In other words, this is being done in military situations.
The Juicy Couture shops in Texas are: * DALLAS GALLERIA 13350 Dallas Parkway Space #1380 Dallas , TX 75240 (972) 980-4539 * HOUSTON GALLERIA 5085 West Heimer Road Houston , TX 77056 (713) 439-1336 * NORTHPARK 8687 North Central Expressway N1-1216 Dallas , TX 75225 (214) 360-7737 * NORTHSTAR 7400 San Pedro Avenue, Suite 1801 San Antonio , TX 78216 (210) 348-8033 * THE DOMAIN 11601 Century Oaks Terrace Suite #117 Austin , TX 78758 (512) 719-3840 * THE SHOPS AT LA CANTERA 15900 La Cantera Parkway, Suite #4450 San Antonio , TX 78256 (210) 877-5687 (Reference linked below.)
You will need a relay with a low-voltage coil and 220v contacts rated for the current load of the baseboard heater. If you have a low-voltage transformer, see what its output is rated at (typically 24 volts or less). Then go to an electronics parts store or call some place like Digikey (phone 800-344-4539) and tell them you need (for example) a double-pole single-throw normally-open relay with a 24 volt coil and contacts rated at 30 amps at 240 volts (change these numbers to match your situation). If you do not already have a low-voltage transformer the parts store call sell you one to match the relay coil voltage (be sure to specify if you are connecting the transformer input to 120 volts or 240 volts). Then wire it up as follows: connect the transformer output (24 volts in the example above) in series with the thermostat contacts and the relay coil. Connect the 240 volt supply to the moving arms on the relay, and connect the contacts the arms touch when the relay operates to your heater. Now when the temperature drops below its setting the thermostat contacts will close and connect the relay coil to the 24 volts, the relay will operate, and the 240 volts will be connected to the heater. When the temperature rises above the thermostat's setting, its contacts open, the relay contacts open, and the heater is disconnected. Depending on where you live there may also need to be circuit breakers, protective ground wires, etc.--ask an electrician.
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The first thing you need to do is verify that the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is working. The VSS is attached to the tail end of the transmission. It's cylindrical in shape and has a wire harness coming out of it. The VSS is basically a tiny generator. As your transmission output shaft turns, a gear on the end of the VSS spins, generating current. The signal is sent directly to the digital speedometer. Jack up the rear end of the car so both wheels are off the ground. Disconnect the VSS wiring harness. Start the engine and engauge first gear. The rear wheels should be turning. Connect a voltmeter (measuring in DC) to the VSS wire harness. If you get a reading of 0.5 Volts to 2.0 Volts, the VSS is good. If you get no reading, it's dead and needs to be replaced with either an SR20DET VSS or a KA24 VSS from the same transmission type you have (Automatic or Manual) If you speed sensor is good, the next step in fixing the speedometer is removing the gauge cluster. Taken from nicoclub.com: This repair focuses on trouble-shooting one specific component on the electronic module, a capacitor. That is the one thing that has failed in other units too. Please note that this repair requires skill at soldering, a fine pointed soldering tip and a steady hand because the part that you will need to replace is a very small surface-mount capacitor in a rather tight place. IT CAN BE DONE!, we did it. Also, I suggest that you have someone help you with this task. There are times when a second set of hands make certain things much easier and quicker. You will be removing the electronic speedometer module and testing a specific capacitor by heating it with a soldering iron. If that part is at fault, you will disassemble the module, remove the faulty part, solder in a new one, retest and hopefully, reassemble the whole rig. This may sound extremely difficult, but it really isn't, there are just a lot of steps. Difficulty: *** Time: 1-3 hours Cost: less than $10 Tools: - Screwdriver- 14mm socket wrench and ratchet with extension- Soldering iron (fine-tipped)- Needle nose pliers- Magnifying lense Materials: - rosin-core solder- the smallest 50volt, 1uF, radial lead capacitor that you can find. Below are some possible part numbers: Vendor - Phone - Part #Electronics Express (800)972-2225 14ER0501UAllied (800)433-5700 852-6604Digi-Key (800)344-4539 P5563-ND Procedure: * remove the speedometer and gauge cluster* disassemble the cluster* test the speedometer module by itself as detailed in the THE TEST: section* remove and replace the faulty capacitor* retest module* reassemble car =CLUSTER REMOVAL= There are several plastic moldings that must be removed to get to the gauge cluster. The molding that holds the headlight switches, etc., is the most difficult part. Remove all of the screws that hold it in place. The switches in that molding, to the left of the steering wheel, can remain in the molding. The switches on the right side need to be popped out of the molding. I had to get into a position so that I could see behind the molding and I used a flat bladed driver to push on the lower locking tab of each switch. Push the tab up toward the switch. The bottom of the switch will push out when the tab clears the molding. There is just enough cable to allow you to unplug the switch from the outside of the molding. Once the switches have been removed from the right side, the steering column must be lowered to make room to remove the molding. There are 2 lower nuts and 2 upper bolts that secure the column. Once the column is loose, lower it only enough to get the molding out, block it to hold it there. Now, the molding around the cluster can be pulled out and swung to the left of the wheel. It can hang there on the wires. Now remove the 3 screws that hold the cluster in place and pull it out. There are four cables that have to be unplugged. The two larger ones in the center of the cluster have locks on both sides that you squeeze to unlock. The plugs on the left which go directly into the speedometer, only have a lock on the right side. Once the four plugs are out, the cluster can be removed. =CLUSTER DISASSEMBLY= Detach the ground wire that is protruding through the back, right behind the speedometer module. Also, you will see a small plug toward the bottom side of the module that you need to unplug. To access the speedometer module, split the cluster assembly by releasing the locking tabs on the back section. Once the cover section of the cluster is off, you will have access to the electronic module. At this point the other gauges will be exposed so be extremely cautious not to touch any of the needles, etc. Remove the screws that hold the module is place and carefully slide it out. Once out, it is a good idea to snap the cluster back together to protect the other components. =THE TEST= Heat up your soldering iron.Hold the module carefully and plug the two cables, from the dash, back into the module. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The speedometer should still be dead (if not, then some other miricle has happened). Touch the tip of the soldering iron on the top of the small capacitor shown in Photo 1 (it looks like a tiny aluminum can). In just a couple of seconds, the speedometer should come to life and display a zero. Do not hold the iron on the capacitor for more than a few seconds (ten seconds max), it can make the entire board very hot. If the display lights up, remove the iron and let the capacitor cool until the display goes dark, then try again to confirm. If this worked, the capacitor is the problem. Disconnect the cables from the module and go to 'MODULE DISASSEMBLY'! If the unit does not respond, be sure that you are testing the correct component. Reapply heat to the top of the capacitor. If still no response, apply heat to the other capacitors, one at a time. If still no response, then your problem is beyond the scope of this document. Sorry, go back to forum at NICOclub and look for a replacement in the Classified section. =MODULE DISASSEMBLY= Work on the module at a well lit bench or table. To have better access to the faulty capacitor, disassemble the module. First, there is a plug at the end of the top board that must be unplugged. The top board has one screw at the end and two locking standoffs that must be released. Remove the screw. The standoffs can be released one at a time. Carefully squeeze the top of one standoff with needle-nose pliers (don't scratch the board) and just begin to slide the board up. Move to the other standoff and release it. The top board should be free to pull off, it will pull a little hard because there is a connecting header that you are separating as you pull. Remove the four screws to free the second board. There is a ribbon cable hard-wired to the bottom board so you will only be able to swing the second board to the side for access to the capacitor. NOTE: The small board that the faulty capacitor is sitting on is at an inconvenient angle to its motherboard. When I bent it out to a more easily accessible angle, one of the connector pins broke loose from the board and I didn't find it until my third attempt at the repair. So be extremely cautious about bending that board, some of those joints are almost impossible to get to for soldering. =THE FIX= You should now have access to the top of the capacitor. I know this sounds strange, but use pliers and pull the top of the capacitor off (the little aluminum can, it pulls off easily). There will be two, fine wires sticking straight up. NOTE: Pay attention to the polarity of the new capacitor. Although the capacitor will probably work installed either way, the positive lead should be on the left side when looking at the board as in Photo 2. You may try to solder the capacitor to these wires if you want. If you get a firm solder joint, great! It will work that way. As the forum posting that we read stated, you may want to secure the capacitor from vibration with a spot of hot glue. I did not have success soldering to these wires. I had to cut the wires close to the base, remove the plastic base and carefully de-solder the leads from the board. Be certain that you remove all metal fragments that you de-soldered. DO NOT touch any other component with the iron while de-soldering and soldering on the board. When you de-solder the leads from the pads, there should be only a tiny amount of solder left on the pads. Before trying to solder the new capacitor onto the board, bend and shape the leads so they are similar to the shape of the one in the photo. Do not attempt to solder the capacitor down and then bend it into position, the pads could pull off the board which would be tragic. Test the spacing of the leads on the board before trying to solder. Be sure that they fit the pads closely, do not touch each other and do not cross or touch any other component or pad. When you have the leads shaped correctly, tin the leads with a minute amount of solder. Hold the capacitor in place and touch one lead with the iron. Keep the iron in contact with the lead only as long as it takes to melt the solder. When the first lead joint is solid, solder the second lead. Apply more solder if necessary, but not much. These pads are very close to non-connecting traces and a big blob of solder could risk having an electrical short. (This photo shows the new capacitor installed) Carefully inspect your work with a magnifying lens to insure that the joints are solid and are not overlapping other pads or traces. Also check for and remove any fragments of metal on the board. (This closeup photo shows the capacitor leads and pads. As you can see, there is a big ball of solder on the left pad. I left it that way since it did not touch any other traces.) =RETEST= Completely reassemble the electronic module. As with the first test, hold the module carefully and plug the two cables, from the dash, back into the module. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The panel and the HUD should light up and display a zero. If so, everything can be reassembled and you are ready for the road. Go to FINALLY. =WHAT THE HECK?!= If your installation of the new capacitor did not work;* is the ignition switch in the 'RUN' position?* are the cable plugs firmly inserted into the back of the module?* is the plug on the edge of the module reconnected?* is the header connector between the top board and the second board seated firmly?* reinspect your solder joints* look for tiny pieces of metal (from cutting or desoldering) laying on the board or against other components* did any of the copper traces on the board get deeply scratched (broken)?* check the solder joints of the pins that connect the 'capacitor board' to its mother board (Photo 2)* try another new capacitorGo to RETEST. Hope this has been helpful! _________________________________________ If you still can't get the speedometer to work, you'll have to send the gauge cluster to a repair shop. http://www.mrwhizard.com/Repair%20Pricing.cfm http://www.instrumentclusters.com/