For USA, Canada and other countries running a 60 Hz supply service.
(LIFE SAFETY WARNING! [disclaimer]
Electricity is dangerous!
You can be injured or killed!
Improper installations can cause fire, injury and death!
Check NEC Table 220.55
The minimum circuit size for ANY electric range is 40 amps.
Circuit size depends on the nameplate rating of your range!
The Authority Having Jurisdiction has final say.
ASK YOUR INSPECTOR!!
<><><>
Ok where should we start? What is the total amp draw for the range? What plug and receptacle do you need? What size wire will safely carry the total demand of the range? What is the minimum size breaker that will protect everything? Can the service box handle the extra load?
There is a reason Electricians do what they do, they don't have to use the internet ask such a basic question.
<><><>
If you had to ask this question here you need to learn more about your local wiring code re all the items you must use for a new household AC power range circuit.
Serious home fires can result from incorrectly installed new circuits.
So that the new installation is safe and legal - and complies with the terms of your home insurance policy - you must use the correct type and size of cable, the correct type of circuit breaker and the correct type of wall outlet.
From the local wiring code, a licensed electrician will know which size of wire to use because the answer depends both on the current to be carried (amps) and on the length of the run from the breakers on the main supply panel to the place where the outlet for the kitchen range is to be fixed.
<><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
From a 40 amp breaker, standard ranges have a three conductor #8 copper wire installed, terminating in a three pole four wire grounding receptacle. NEMA number 14-50R. Usually a 50 amp double throw breaker will do with 6 gauge wire
A switch, circuit breaker, fuse, or switching transistor can do that.
The outlet is connected to and protected by a breaker or fuse in a main electric panel. The outlet should be sized to the protection. Usually utility outlets in a residence are either 15 A or 20 A. If there are multiple outlets on a circuit then the total current cannot exceed the protection value of the breaker or fuse.
Unless you want the power off or there is an overload condition that caused the breaker to trip.
The basic assumption I am making is that your oven is on its own breaker with nothing else on the circuit. If oven is sharing circuit, unplug other devices. The problem is either with your breaker, the oven itself or the wire. If you have a good clamp-on ampmeter and know how to use it you can measure the current and see how it compares to the breaker rating. Provided the breaker doesn't trip instantaneously. To isolate the problem to the oven, make sure all stove top elements are off. Start with oven temp on lowest setting. If this trips breaker immediately there is a problem with your oven heating element or elements. There may be more than one. Somehow the resistance in the element has decreased or shorted and too much current is flowing. If the breaker doesn't blow immediately, there may still be a problem with element, but as you turn up the heat more voltage is applied to the element causing more current to flow. This would rule out a dead short, but not a bad element. If a new element doesn't fix the problem it may be a faulty breaker. You could test this by swapping the breaker with a know working breaker of the same ratings from your electric panel. You should only do this if you know what you are doing, because electrocution is possible.
Check the amp rating of the heater and do the math. Electric heaters pull A LOT of current, so I'm guessing you'd be near the 50amp max.
A switch, circuit breaker, fuse, or switching transistor can do that.
They should not be on the same breaker. Micro should be on a 20 amp. Oven should be on a 30 amp by its self.
Your main breaker should tell you the amps of your panel.
The outlet is connected to and protected by a breaker or fuse in a main electric panel. The outlet should be sized to the protection. Usually utility outlets in a residence are either 15 A or 20 A. If there are multiple outlets on a circuit then the total current cannot exceed the protection value of the breaker or fuse.
Probably a wire shorted out. Probably in a junction box. This should be looked at quickly. If this is the case, the breaker or a fuse in the fuse panel should have tripped. Do not just reset the breaker or fuse as this may cause a fire.
Typical residential electric dryers are on 30 amp circuits, which means 10 gage copper wire. The circuit breaker should match the dryer cord rating, generally 30 amps.
If you dont know how, you should hire an electrician, because you need to measure at breaker box, dont try if you had to come here to ask
It depends on what else you are running in the house. Add up your amperage to see if it is more than the 125amp rating. Which should be below 105 amps constant to keep from overheating the main breaker. If you are not running a big central ac system or a electric oven and water heater you should have no problem running the hot tub.
25 amp breaker
Branch circuits are protected by the circuit breaker found in the electrical panel. Each circuit should have its one breaker. The breaker should be rated to protect the insulation of the wire, so you can determine the breaker size based on the circuit conductor size Example #14-2 should be protected by a 15 amp breaker
Unless you want the power off or there is an overload condition that caused the breaker to trip.
Your question is a bit vague, but let's try a two part answer. If you have a GFCI breaker in an electric panel you should only have one connection at the breaker, but the breaker will protect all devices on the circuit. If you are talking about a GFCI outlet, they are equipped to extend the GFCI protection to other non-GFCI outlets by using the proper "output" connection on the GFCI.