Connect the white and black wires back on to where the other black and white wires connected. There should also be a green pigtail coming out of the fixture which will be the ground. If it has a chain, then the wire running through the chain will be the ground wire.
Connect black to black and white to white from the switch. Your old fixture may have had wiring for multiple bulbs so they could be switched separately.
There should be two wires in the box, black and white and possibly a bare one depending on the age of the wiring in the house. The fixture has two screws on the base. One wire goes on each screw. If there are short wires on the fixture, black to black and white to white. If there is a bare ground wire in the house box, it attaches to the body of the fixture. If there is no ground screw on the fixture, do not worry about it.
If there are two black wires, it's possible that it was wired for a ceiling fan and that one of the wires is for the fan part while the other is for the light part. If so, one of the black wires may be switched while the other is always "on." Normally black is "hot" and white is "neutral" (NOT ground... ground is usually green).
Both black wires should connect on the outer 2 terminals and the white wire on the center terminal
Green= Ground Black = live White = Neutral
You will have to check to make sure. Normally, with 4 wires, the black and red are both power for 220. White for neutral and bare for ground. If you are only using one leg of it, you would use the black, white, bare ones and cap the red one. Someone may have used the 4 strand because they had it or 220 was planned but not done or both the red and black are hot. You should be able to tell in the panel. Do the red and black both connect to separate breakers or to one or is the red not connected?
If both wires are black then the one with the writing is the neutral wire. If the two wires are black and white then the white one is the neutral.
The answer is yes, provided your 220 line has with it a ground wire (usually white). You simple connect two wires to the white ground wire that runs with the other two 220 wires (red and black). These will be used as ground wires for your 110's and should also be white. You can then use one of these two ground wires with one of the 220 wires ( say the red one) to form a 110 circuit. You then use the other ground wire with the black 220 wire to form your other 110 circuit. This will probably not satisfy your local housing code. If you do this I suggest not using more then 5 amps in each of your 110 circuits. No more then 5 light bulbs per circuit.
There are many ground wires on this vehicle. The main one being the negative, (Black) battery cable.
Connect to two wires you have to the the spade connectors and forget the ground connector. The spade connector wires should be black and white. Black to gold and white to silver. If the wires coming from the heater happen to be red and white, then red goes to black. You could buy a simple lamp cord which has only tow wires.
One set, one white and one black are the power and ground coming in. The other set goes to the light. Probably, the one in the bottom of the switch box is the power in. In this case, it really doesn't matter. If you break the black wires, the light should work. Tie the two white together and connect 1 black to each terminal on the switch. White or ground goes to the light, black will feed through the switch either way and complete the circuit.
I have a 1966 mustang 6 cylinder i put a auto matic trans in a later year not sure of year. I need to hook up the back up lights their are two black/red wires coming out of the floor board and four wires out the side of the transmission the colors are orange?/lwhite orange/white white/or yellow and black/white which one or lmore than one do i hook to the black and red wires coming out of the floor board. thanks tab ashford
If you have three wires coming into the box, black, white and bare, put it with the bare one. If you only have 2 wires, black and white or can't tell, you can attach it to the metal box that may be grounded or simply tuck it back and don't worry about it. It is there to ground the fixture but if you do not have a ground wire, the bare one, there is nothing you can do about it and it will not hurt anything.
I assume you mean the red, black, white, and ground wires are in the ceiling box where the fan is going to be installed. If this is the case, the black wire and red wires are "switch legs" fed from two switches on a nearby wall. Usually the black wire is used for the ceiling fan motor, and the red one is used for the fan light. If this fan does not have one, you only need to use on wire, either red or black, and cap off the other wire. The white wire connects to the white wire on the ceiling fan, and the ground connects to the bare copper wire (if supplied) on the ceiling fan. <<>> Usually in the fixture itself the black wire is for the motor and the blue wire is for the light.
All newer installations have a ground wire (bare) in with the other conductors. eg. 2c #14 with bare ground, 3c # 14 with bare ground. These bare wires are used to ground the boxes that they travel through. In a proper installation, one of the wires should be under the ground screw which is located on the flat bottom of the box. From under the ground screw this wire should be wire nutted together with all the other ground wires in the box. If the fixture is a fluorescent fixture, usually you have to provide a ground wire from the fixture to the group of ground wires in the box.
If they are in the same outlet box simple use jumper wires to connect them together. Connect ground to ground, white to white, and black to black. If they are in different boxes then run a wire of the same gauge size from one box to the other.
If both wires are black, the one that connects to your white wire is the one that should have little writing on it. Black to the plain black wire, white to the wire with writing.
Starting at the switch, with one set of three wires coming in from the service panel and one set of three wires going out to the frist light. Usually you would have a black wire for hot, white for neutral and a bare wire for ground. --The black wire coming in and the black wire going out are fastened to the screws on the side of the switch. one on each scerw. You can use either wire for either screw but not the odd green screw that is for ground. --The two white wires are wire nutted together. --The two bare wires are twisted together and are also fastened to the odd Green screw. Some building codes require a small metal ring that looks likes a brass farrow to be used to crimp the to ground wires together. -----At the light box; --The black wires will all be wire nutted together. There should be three black wires, one from the switch, one to go out to the next light and one from the light fixture. --The three white wires like the black all get wire nutted together. One coming from the switch, one going out to the next light and one from the light fixture. --The two bare ground wires get twisted together and fastened also to a green ground screw. This green grounding screw may be on a metal bar that the light fixture is mounted to. ----Just repet the above for each light you are going to install. At the last light you will do the same, but will have one less wire of each color to hook up.
Wiring diagram of trace the wires and find the black one leading to a ground source.
It's possible that the outlet is on a switch, and either one half of the outlet is switched or the whole thing. The extra two pair of wires probably feed the NEXT outlet.
The black and white (neutral) wires connect to an unswitched voltage supply. The red wire and the same white (neutral) wires connect to the load.
It is normal to measure 120 volts from black (hot) to white (neutral), and it is normal to also measure 120 volts from black (hot) to bare (ground). While the hot wire stands alone, the neutral and ground wires are tied together at the service entrance -- so either one can serve as reference for making a measurement to the hot wire.
best bet: look up the sensor on the internet and see if they have a diagram. Usually white is neutral or ground and black is hot.
The bare is ground. A bare conductor can only be used as a ground. The dryer doesn't need a neutral, its power flows from one hot (black) to the other (white). A load using only one hot needs a neutral to return to the panel. To make things easier to understand, when using 2 conductor w/ground romex for this (which already contains only black, white, and bare wires), I would color the white wire red with electrical tape on both ends. This way it won't be confused with a neutral.