This is a voltage drop question. A voltage value needs to be stated. Assuming that the 200 amp panel is a single phase 120/240 volt sub panel. A #1 copper conductor will limit the voltage drop to 3% or less when supplying 100 amps for 200 feet on a 240 volt system.
Need to know what the load amperage is on the 100 amp panel. If interested, open discuss question page.
To answer this question a voltage has to be stated.
See discuss question below.
2/0 (2 ought) Copper or 4/0 Aluminum.
1/0 copper
This is relatively easy if you are careful. However, you could kill yourself if you are not careful. Safety gear such as insulated rubber gloves, eye protection and rubber sole shoes all provide a margin of safety. Also have someone standing by to drag you away from a live circuit if you happen to get in trouble. Tie a rope to your belt for example. Now turn off breaker you are replacing. remove front panel of electric panel taking care not to touch anything inside panel. Once the panel is removed you expose live surfaces and wires. Make sure breaker is off. If in doubt check output with a volt meter. Put one hand behind your back and with a screwdriver in your other hand unscrew the screw holding in the black wire. Pull the black wire away from the breaker and make sure you don't touch it to any live black wires or the hot buss bar. Usually the breaker will pull out from the side away from the center of the electric panel. Usually there is a "c-shaped" clamp that clamps onto a retaining bar and another clamp on the hot buss bar. Lift breaker away from box. Insert new breaker and reconnect hot. Make sure breaker is off while re-inserting hot wire.
Cost. It is because of the ease of resetting a breaker after a fault trip. A fuse is a throw away device after it trips.
If you unplugged the breaker and put it on the table and it tripped then it would be related to the internal mechanics of the breaker being under some tension causing it to trip. This is just to illustrate what it means to be really disconnected. What is likely is that somewhere in the circuit the Hot wire is shorted to neutral or ground. If you know where all the outlets are on the circuit you can disconnect them one at a time and see when the problem goes away. This can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. An electrician would have a meter and signal tracer that could find the problem much quicker and safer. One way an electrican might troubleshoot would be to remove the black wire from the breaker in panel and test resistance with a Volt=Ohm-Meter (VOM) to verify there is a short, and then trace the circuit through each outlet to find the short. The short could be internal to an outlet or switch, a short to a metal box, a screw or nail in the wire hidden in the wall, or any number of other reasons.
Operating a breaker on a continuous current, close to the breaker's tripping point can cause this condition. Because the breaker is a thermal device the heat builds up over a time period. Check the breakers on either side of the faulting breaker. If these breakers are also warm from use they take away the heat sink effect and do not let the faulting breaker cool down. Check the current of the load to see how close you are operating to the breakers trip point. Over time the trip setting of the breaker can become lower to a point where it will not reset. Changing the breaker out should rectify this non resetting condition.
Yikes. No triplex is for connections to the mast head from the power pole. You should rethink this panel move. Check with someone that knows the (NEC in the US) code. I am in Canada and our CEC states that the service entrance and meter base has to remain on the outside of the building and that no part of the service from the meter base to the first over current device (main breaker) shall be run inside the building. This is for safety reasons as the wires from the meter base to the main breaker are only protected by the primary fuse. Have you ever seen news clips of a house fire and the service drop is on the ground sparking away like welding is being done. This is because the primary fuse has not blown and disconnected the power. What you are proposing to do is bring this into your house. Triplex is an free air rated cable and is not to be put into conduit. Woodman66 thanks for the quick reply Please check disscussion area as i am not familiar with replying on wiki Quick_68 - AS it turns out i read up a lot more about what i can run into the house. Because i am installing a disconnect switch outside the house by the meter i can have the panel box inside the middle of the house. This disconnect switch is nothing more than a single breaker box with a 200 amp breaker that i got from home depot for 130 or so dollars as a unit. As for the wire i need to run into the house from the meter to the panel inside, there are only specific types of triplex that can be used. One that would not work is Triplex URD also known as "sweetbriar." The reason for this is because the insulation is not fire rated for in house use, or under house"above ground" run no matter if its in conduit or not. Another 4/0 4/0 2/0 cable would need to be ran that has qualified insulation. Just thought id add that side note incase someone else came across this question. Glad you got things straightened out. Better to be safe than sorry. Good luck on your project.
This is relatively easy if you are careful. However, you could kill yourself if you are not careful. Safety gear such as insulated rubber gloves, eye protection and rubber sole shoes all provide a margin of safety. Also have someone standing by to drag you away from a live circuit if you happen to get in trouble. Tie a rope to your belt for example. Now turn off breaker you are replacing. remove front panel of electric panel taking care not to touch anything inside panel. Once the panel is removed you expose live surfaces and wires. Make sure breaker is off. If in doubt check output with a volt meter. Put one hand behind your back and with a screwdriver in your other hand unscrew the screw holding in the black wire. Pull the black wire away from the breaker and make sure you don't touch it to any live black wires or the hot buss bar. Usually the breaker will pull out from the side away from the center of the electric panel. Usually there is a "c-shaped" clamp that clamps onto a retaining bar and another clamp on the hot buss bar. Lift breaker away from box. Insert new breaker and reconnect hot. Make sure breaker is off while re-inserting hot wire.
100 cm=1 meter
He enlisted to get away from his past, the life he had in England.
He passed away.
20mm per meter meter falling away from the outlet
"I am assuming you are talking about about a haul away service. In this case you really only need a truck, a phone number, a helper, and initiative. Starting your own business is hard, but rewarding."
No, you do not have to go away for training to do customer service at a airport.
It has to be at least eighty feet away Not it has to be fifteen
Cost. It is because of the ease of resetting a breaker after a fault trip. A fuse is a throw away device after it trips.
Hi, I have the same question myself. I spoke to a electrician today he suggested I go with a new* 50 amp service in my camper do away with the old 30 Amp service all together off the new 50 amp service run 30 amp side of the breaker to my airconditioner or my stackable 220 washer/dryer combo and put couple other 15-20 amp breakers in my box for my lighting he suggested that way it also allows play for adding or modifying my breaker box as my needs change its always better to have more than not enough he quoted.... hope this helps a little
1 meter
1.5 meter away from other car