I believe it's located on the driver's side inner front fender and battery may have to be removed to give adequate room to access

The easiest way and the best way to prevent damage is to remove the tire, splash shield and accessory belts then remove the harmonic balancer bolt using the special holding tool DenLors 648796. The balancer or crank pulley will then slide off fairly easy, then reverse this procedure to install the replacement pulley.

Ok, regardless if you are working on the 1.5 or the 1.6 it's a pain in the you know what. The bolt is on very very tight and requires a special tool for ease that is made just for Honda harmonic balancers It holds the balancer in place while you turn the bolt use a large steel pipe or breaker bar with an IMPACT SHALLOW 6 point socket and break it loose. I've only seen a few impact wrench guns that could turn this over torqued bolt. Just DONT break the bolt.. You will be upset...$$$$$

You first need to lift the car off the ground like your changing the tire(get it on a cherry picker if you can for easier access). Take the tire off, loosen the tensioner on the alternator, and get the belt off. Take a 11/16"ths shallow 1/2" socket and a 14" or larger steel pipe for torque because this bolt is very very tight and can easily break your tool. There are a few impact guns to take it off.

According to my manual you can push a large screw driver in a hole near where the speedo cable connects to the gear box to lock the flywheel. I found I had to remove a small bolt to get the hole large enough to fit the screw driver in. A small piece of casing broke and it became very easy to lock the flywheel. The bolt came undone with a socket and a 30 in bar. I don't think the missing casing is going to make any difference.

Specialty hobby and electronics stores such as Radio Shack carry police scanners. Additionally one can buy police scanners online from ScannerMaster and Walmart. There are a number of apps for smartphones that also act as police scanners and many local jurisdictions are now broadcasting their emergency channels over the internet as well.

Before changing the headlight bulbs on a 2003 F-350 be sure the vehicle is off, and the bulb switch is off. Grasp the headlight bulb retainer and turn it counter clockwise, one-eight of a turn. It should come off, next just grasp and turn the bulb to remove it.

If the engine cranks over, but will not start or is difficult to start, it's either fuel or ignition. Too many possible causes to list. A repair shop which can extract engine codes and accurately diagnose problem. Simple things to try: 1. check clogged air filter 2. check clogged fuel filter 3. check worn out plugs, cap, rotor 4. examine vacuum hoses for leaks

What kind of sliding door?,,,,, Vehicle? House? Bank Vault?

its in the back of the rear left tire on top

With a socket wrench-place it over the nut that holds in the

tensioner and slowly pusn to the left to loosen

According to the 1996 Ford Aerostar Owner Guide :

( 21.0 U.S. gallons )

If you have the 2.3 engine, one possibility is sludge in the Throttle Body.

According to the Wiki Answers website :

The Ford Aerostar was released in 1985 as a 1986 model

You did not state the year, but assuming 96 or 97, there is a photograph available at this link: http://autocenter.weber.edu/OBD-CH/documents/newdocuments/ford/aerostar1996.jpg

Although not impossible, the steering column must be dropped to replace the gear shift tube. In my case, a torx bolt fell off at the base of my gear tube and caused the gear shift to miss reverse, neutral, and drive. Four nuts with washers, two and two, hold the majority of the weight of the steering column. To get to the steering column, the upper and lower shroud behind the steering wheel will need to be removed, as well as the lower cover piece underneath the steering wheel, followed by the metal plate. The small support behind the metal plate will have to be removed to allow for the steering column to drop to a level to work on the shifter tube. Note: Aside from the battery, I did not disconnect any electrical connections. Be very careful not to cause the weight of the steering column to dislodge or damage the many electrical connections underneath the column. If the problem cannot be identified or remedied at this point, then the airbag, the steering wheel, and the gear shift may need to be removed to fix it. Note: the metal clamps holding the gear tube in place are very brittle. Make sure they line up and are not overtorqued, or risk breakage. I broke two of them because of an issue with the alignment of the gear tube and the actual gear shift mechanism that moves the gears around. Through a simple Internet search, you can purchase the gear tube ($30.00) and the gear tube clamps ($7.00 per clamp).

[1] Remove the windshield wiper arms from their shafts. You must first lift the arms off of the windshield so they lock in the upright position. There is a small tab on the side of the arm where it fits onto the shaft. This tab is part of a lever that locks the arm onto the shaft. Pull the tab away from the shaft and pull the arm off of the shaft.

[2] Remove the plastic cowl below the windshield that fits around the wiper arm shafts by removing the 11 small plastic clips that hold it in place. Sliding a flat bladed screwdriver underneath the cowl next to each clip and prying upward worked well. It appears the clips are meant to be replaced with new ones each time they are removed. The cowl is plastic, usually brittle, so be careful not to break it.

[3] Use a male Torx bit, T-30, to remove the two screws that hold each of the wiper shafts in place. Allow the linkage to drop down allowing access to the motor arm stud.

[4] Locate where the wiper linkage is attached to the motor arm stud. Pry up on the center of the metal retaining clip and push it sideways off of the stud. Remove the link from the stud on the motor arm.

[5] Remove three nuts holding the wiper motor to the cowl which will allow it to drop lower into the engine compartment.

[6] Disconnect the electrical wiring connectors and work the motor out from above the engine.

Reverse procedure to install.

It is behind the battery on the drivers side inner fender. It has a heavy red wire that you can follow to the positive side of the battery. (There are some other wires also so if you replace the starter relay, mark your wires so as not to mix them up.) Hopefully this will help.

No, but you do want a set of good instructions so no damage is done while replacing it. There are a couple of pretty good manuals available at most parts stores such as Haynes or Chilton's or maybe if your local dealership would give you a breakdown of replacing the switch.

Pretty easy for average mech. first drain coolant by loosening the lower radiator hose. make sure to have a drain pan. remove the power steering belt by removing the bolts to the idler pulley. and let belt off the pulley.remove the alternator upper bracket. and remove belt. take fan shroud off with two 8mm bolts on top oe it. you cant remove until you remove the clutch fan assy. it is left handed thread. it has to be removed together. remove the four bolts to the pulley on front of water pump. and then remove all 14mm bolts around the pump. then remove 8mm bolts and it will be able to come off. assemble in reverse order!

The shift linkage may become sloppy due to the retaining bolts for the shift bracket loosening.
To fix this, look under the dash to the left of the brake pedal. The shift cable comes up from the floor on the left side- follow it to the top, where it connects to the shift bracket that bolts the column shifter. There are two torx bolts (t-27 size) that may be loose that retain the bracket to the column shifter. Tighten these bolts, check to see if the linkage has improved. You may need to readjust the shift indicator after this fix.

Doesn't matter which way the water flows. The heater core is just a tube with fins and water can flow either direction.

Harmonic Balancer puller. can buy, or can use Auto Zone's tool loaner deal, where you pay for it, use it, then bring it back for a refund. I advise using an impact wrench on that crank bolt. if you use a breaker bar, you may move the crankshaft, and lose you timing match-up - it is on there tight. It needs to be re-torqued to the specified value, too. Make sure your torque wrench will reach the bolt first.

i found it just as easy to remove the bolt then either use a pry bar behind it or just pull with my hand and tap the flat edge gently but aggresivly with a hammer. it will come off...

could be one of your seat belts, there are sensors that may have come undone or disconnected. could be in your doors, check to see if any of the door ajar lights are on, that will be on your instrument panel. check those out and the fuses that go to them. that's what I would check first, then if you have a Haynes or Chilton repair manual I would look in there to see if it has any suggestions. Hope this helped