loosen belt

remove wiring plugs

remove part that has the metal tube going to it. It will leak freon if your system is full

there are 4 bolts on the front of the compressor connecting it to the engine, remove them.

lift compressor out.

this is from the top of my head, so sorry if it isn't exact, but will give you an idea. takes about an hour to change for the average person with proper tools.

To reset the keyless entry code, you need to first enter the factory programmed code. Once entered, press the '1-2' button within five seconds of entering the last digit. You can then reset the code to your own. You will need to be extremely quick.

For a 1988 Mercury Marquis remove bottom shroud from steering column (5 Philips head screws). There is a wire running from the ignition switch to the left side of the steering column; detach it from the coupler (This can be done without a tool). Turn key to ON position until the panel lights come on. There is a small pin near the bottom of the key lock; push it in and pull the ignition switch out (don't panic if the wire seems to be stuck; it will come out).

To replace, turn new ignition switch to same position. Push pin on the ignition switch in while sliding it back into the steering column. Reconnect wire and then replace shroud.

To replace the door hinge pins on a 1997 Jimmy you will need to open the door up. Place two jack stands on the front and back of the door's length at the bottom portion of the door for support. Remove the damaged hinge pin with the proper socket. Place the new hinge pin in place and secure it.

Lift the hoods, find the lid to the power steering reservoir and remove the lid. Attached to the lid is the dipstick to the power steering fluid, read the level and decide if more needs to be added.

If you are asking for a 1996 or newer model year, it is located just below the dash on the driver's side above the OBDII port. It is not hard to access. Drop the lower dash panel for light access and uncouple the harness clips. Slip it back and replace with the new one.

Buy a can of refrigerant and a separate feeder hose. This will help recharge in future years--instead of paying a garage $90 a year or more to recharge or $300 or so to find and fix a slow leak in the system... You can pay $25 for the can of refrigerant and hose and about $10 a year for the can. On the passenger side of the engine there is a quick-connect coupling for the coolant. This is the low pressure side of the system, and it is where the can of coolant goes into the system (through the hose, which also has a quick-coupler). In the front of the engine, near the radiator, there is another coupling, but this is to the high-pressure end of the system. The hose coupling will most likely not fit this, but if it does, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADD COOLANT TO THIS SIDE OF THE SYSTEM.

Jack up the passengers side of the car, get a 1 1/16" wrench break loose the fitting to the manifold, hold a 24 mm wrench on the fitting to the manifold, loosen the flare nut on the tube. Then using a 10 mm socket, about 2 inches long, loosen the two nuts under the EGR valve, then take the both out, remove the vacuum hose to the top of the EGR valve, and the sensing line from the small tube. then completely remove the flare nut from the orifice fitting on the manifold. BE CAREFUL with the tube, do not bend it or break it, you may find PB blaster useful the night before on a cold engine loosen these fittings. Once the EGR valve is out, remove the orifice out of the manifold, remove the tube from the EGR valve, again be careful, mark the tube to EGR position before pulling this off, because the top fitting to EGR needs tightened before you put it back in, it will make the lower fitting difficult if you do not line it up right, dry fitting from under the car is helpful, mark it, and then tighten the top. Clean out the tube, be careful not to bend the little tube, either inside or outside the larger tube, it sticks out inside. Clean the orifice, clean the manifold face carefully not to score it, check for blockage there too. Apply antisieze to the orifice, put it back in the manifold, then apply antisieze to the bolts for the egr valve, and the flare nuts both ends. Apply some silicon to the egr valve face, just enough to hold the gasket in place, put the new gasket on, start the bolts two turns in the gasket, it will hold them in place, then start them in the manifold, then start the lower flare fitting to orifice, tighten the top bolts, and then the flare nut, connect the vacuum line, connect the sensing line. I just recently did this process, it works, if have other EGR issues, the valve is the easiest.

The 1990 grand marquis 5.0 has what they call an "AIC" motor. It's located on front left side of throttlebody. It has a PINCLE valve inside that gets dirty. Take it apart and clean with throttle body cleaner and disconnect the battery, wait 10 min, connect battery, start it up and let it idle for 5mins , then take it out for a brisk ride to let the CPU relearn.

If it's Like my 2000 (I'm sure it is) remove the wheel and tire, remove the brake drum, (it might be necessary to use the threaded holes in the drum to run bolts in and pull the drum off, the bolts needed are METRIC). On the rear of the axle housing by the backing plate is the rear wheel antilock sensor, held in by one bolt with a 12mm head. Remove this sensor. After the sensor is removed there are four 12mm head nuts on the back of the backing plate, remove these. I had to get a little physical with a deadblow hammer to get the backing plate to break loose, the axle shaft, outer bearing, and backing plate come off as one assembly, the outer bearing is press fit into the axle housing so it will require driving it back into the housing on re assembly. Hope this helps.

# Close all the vehicle doors. # Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder - do not turn ignition switch. # Press and hold the DOOR unlock switch (This is the switch on the door, NOT the remote). # While holding the DOOR lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF ON, OFF. (3 TIMES) # Release the DOOR unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock one time to confirm the program mode is actuated. # Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button on one keyless remote for approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter. # Repeat the previous step to program up to four transmitters. Reprogram any existing remotes at this time as they have been erased. # Turn the ignition switch to the ON (one more click forward) position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter mode. # Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.

Pop the trunk, and there should be a sticker on the drivers side support arm that hold the truck lid with the number code. If this is the case, and you're styling now, note that right after you enter that number, and the door unlocks enter "3" to unlock the passenger door, and "5" to pop the trunk. Keyless entry with remote key fab? Have it, or not. Get in the car. Lock the doors. Cycle the ignition key on and off, one right after the other about eight to ten times. If the door unlocks by its self this car is equipt with such a keyless entry. Ford dealer can get you a new key fab for cost of labor to discover needed code for this must have. c-ya grade a da mopar man! Codes are usually on a white sticker inside of the trunk - it's 5-digit number. If it's not there - it could be written inside of the Owners Manual or on a sticker inside the Glove Compartment. If it's not there - I believe the Dealers can get it. Hope this helps. The code can also be found stamped on a label on the device itself. Mounted to inside of driver door... another black box with a lot of wires coming in/out of it. -motoman22

Believe it or not, the easiest way is: 1. Remove the plug wire by pulling it off carefully, grasp it close to the end. You can also buy a plug wire remover which is available at any parts store. 2. Using a SPARK PLUG wrench (available at any parts store) - remove the old plug. 3. Insert the new plug. 4. Tighten, but not TOO tight. 5. Push the plug wire back on. 6. Repeat 1-5 for the other 7 plugs. You might find it easier to access some of the plugs via the holes above the tire wells. From the side of the vehicle, you'll see a hole near the top of the tire well. If you change the plugs, it's best to replace the wires also. NOTE: The wires and plugs on Grand Marquis are rated for 100,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. NOTE 2: Unless you area good mechanic, changing the plugs can cause you more heartache than the price of having a professional do it for you. With all the Computerized stuff on 2000 model year and later automobiles, it's best to pay a price for a complete tune-up. Good Luck -tj-

There is an electric motor that drives a geared pulley which is attached to a sliding bracket attached to the window. Most of the time the cable jumps off due to dry or binding window/channel. There are rubber spacers in the gear attached to the motor that deteriate in the heat and crumble. You can buy a new gear kit and replace it.

For the 4.6 liter V8 engine in a 2002 Mercury Grand Marquis :

The firing order is ( 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 )

It has the Coil On Plug ( C.O.P. ) ignition system with ( 8 ) individual coils

The engine cylinder locations are numbered :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

Greetings well i have a jeep same model and the same happen to mines , and what i did was carefully pull the top dash board a part then unscrew the the plastic panel and took my hand and placed it back on the little pointer and it was all fine and good then just put the dashboard back together and then your finished

No. A 2001 Jeep does not have a cabin filter.

It may be physically possible but it's a very bad idea. You will have reduced compression. You may be leaking coolant into your oil. This will reduce the viscosity of the oil in your motor and increase wear on internal parts. You will also risk overheating and warping your head(s) if you haven't already.

The answer is .044

Most likely the plates or discs in the transmission are stuck together. There is really nothing to be done but repair or replace the transmission. I assume this is an automatic. They tend to fuse together so additives do not help.

How do I change a headlight bulb on a 1998 jeep grand cherokee?

if your ignition wires are stock then they have numbers on them, these are the numbers of the cylinders that they go to... tracing those is the easiest thing to do. If not, i believe that the number six cylinder is on the drivers side.

on a 92 it's drivers side, mounted on wheelwell, if you goto autozone.com and log in your info, then go to component locations that will tell you where all your relays are located, very well-informed a-z easy searching

Found the problem....I changed the Idle Air Control Valve. Thnaks to all that answered my question.

Two things I can think of:

Carbon build-up on the injectors; solution: speed on the highway (65+ MPH).

Idle is set too low; solution: find the idling screw and turn it up.

You probably have a 4.6 motor? If so you may have egr passageways plugging up. Although they usually are a problem whem warm if this is true. Next guess is a sensor such as a coolant temp sensor. It monitors the coolant temperature and tells the computer to adjust the fuel/air ratio. It feeds it more fuel when cold to warm it quicker. If the sensor is telling the computer bad info it may be starving or dumping too much fuel in. The computer controls the idle (no adjustment).

I had similar problem on a 96. I changed the air mass flow sensor and it ran like a champ. Took about 15 minutes. Very simple. Part costs about $85 remanufactured. Dealer tried to charge me about $300 to replace!!!

the fuel reset switch is directly behind the glove box, to reset it you just push the button on the top of the switch.