Where is the fuel pumpP relays relay on a 1986 Oldsmobile toronado
check out this website.
http://www.autozone.com/AZ/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1f/46/b1/0900823d801f46b1/repairInfoPages.htm#hd1-1-2
I will just tell you it is difficult to do,You will need to take a lot of the front support items off to make it easy to reach,I did not,3 grown men ,2 are mechanics fought and twisted and Mae it work but took a long time and almost broke other things.Do it the right way by unbolting the radiator support and such.Be careful of the A/C lines.
If the light stays on while the car is running there is a good chance your alternator is not working anymore. Which means that your battery is not getting charged and you could end up stranded on the side of the road.
not true all you need to do is remove right front tire all the plastic mud guard from wheel well and the sensor will be right in front of you you will need to remove the the torque mount on the engine but that will also be right in front of you....
as for tools you will need a harmonic balancer puller and a few sockets and a torque wrench is a MUST... hope this helps
I have a 1982 olds toro. I have the same problem as you. I talked to a cadillac dealer on this problem. He said that is was a common problem because of the 4 wheel disc brakes. But he said he does not know how to fix it.
The trouble shooting codes are for people and dealerships who have a service manual for the car. Based on the code the service manual tells you what the problem is associated with and steps to diagnose and find exactly what the problem is.
The wiring is all messed up. Other than headlight flap malfunctions, the electronic dashboard in the toronados are the #1 thing owners of them have had to deal with. Its about a 700 fix. And not too many people know how to do it without costing you way more money
Answer
Check all the data lines, the test connection near the parking brake (it's a small plastic cover with a metal connector that continues the data circuit), the 7 volt power supply above the gas pedal is a possible culprit, the BCM (body control module) and any part in between that involves the data line with includes the climate control, chime control module etc. The data circuit is a redundant circuit and in general it has to be shorted to ground or both sides open for it to have that type of effect on the cluster. In most cases it's the cluster itself unfortunately. The way it was designed, the parts that are surface soldered just lift off and you have problems from vibration and weather changes that cause this.
Yes, depending on the following factors; The value of the automobile; lost to theft, vandalism, or fire. The fact that insurance is a criminal enterprise in itself, where in, if you allow your insurance to lapse or cancel it you will face significantly higher prices when you again insure an automobile; They treat you like a first time driver in most cases.
No, the car isn't worth enough to worry about the loss. Your going out of the country for one or more years; therefore, the cost of increased prices to insure the vehicle on your return is more than off-set by not insuring it while your gone. Check on this important factor before reaching a conclusion.
Caution: Any insurance company will tell you that the vehicle must be insured as long as you own it, running or not, and there is the following to consider:You are always responsible for a vehicle you own. Millions of vehicles are running around that are registed in the names of people who no longer know where the vehicle is or who owns it. You can find them on eBay all the time; Things like, no title but comes with a bill of sale. If the bill of sale is from an original registered owner, then, that will usually work to obtain a new title in the purchasers name. If not, the last registered owner is the legal owner of the automobile, halftrack, airplane, helicopter, zepplin, moped, ect., and, as such, they incure a certain amount of liability for the machines actions. How much? I have no idea, but I have used this on several occassions to convince a previously registered owner, who had sold the car and forgotten about it, to send me a bill of sale so I could re-register the vehicle, become the legal owner, and re-sell said vehicle. In one particular case, some years ago, I finally resorted to telling the suspicious legal owner that the car could roll down a hill and maybe crash into the police station? Accidents can happen you know...well, I guess it worked, I finaly got a bill of sale for that vehicle.
I got one from American Yazaki in Michigan. I believe their phone number is 231-347-0760. The cost was $439.00.
On the passengers side, next to the transmission.
Open hood and follow side of engine on the front. Should see it. It will be right in middle of car. Easiest to change from bottom though
I am doing a set of 84 olds 88 wire cap now if they are similer it is easy there are 5-6 screws on inside of cap ,remove and the rest is simple there are two spokes to assembly .take good pic of cap before doing this as assembly can be tricky or leave one together whan you do the rest good luck.
The fuse block is under the dash on the left side of the instrument panel.
The SuperChip i installed in my 1990 oldsmobile toronado trofeo gave it 25hp more according to the dyno.
That is the turn signal switch & actually it move up & down when you tilt the column. But when you move the turn signal handle up or down it moves a small wire inside a casting that actually works the turn signal switch.