You need to splice the extension Romex, using wire nuts, inside a covered junction box made for the purpose. If you can do it within the original outlet box you can put a blank cover on the box. If not you may have to install a new "old work" box in wall. If you can get to wire in attic or basement you could put the junction box in one of those locations. The junction box must be accessible so you can't bury it in the wall.
They can as they will support the wire into the box. The deciding factor should be the cost. A BX connector costs about four times the price of a romex connector. Also to keep in mind is that most junction boxes these days have their own built in clamps.
No, you can feed it with a 2 wire Romex + ground. It depends on what is mounted on the ceiling. If it is just a light all you need is 2 wire + ground Romex. However if it is a fan/light and you want to control each one independant of the other you will need to use 3 wire Romex + ground. This is of course if you have 2 seperate switches. You would then connect the red wire to the blue light wire and the black wire to the black fan wire. If you use 2 wire Romex just connect the blue and black fan/light wire to the black wire in the ceiling box.
Junction box for what? Do you mean a sub panel?
The answer depends on what type of access you have to the junction box. The wire external to the box may have some slack that can be brought into the box. If everything is tight you will probably have to install one or more additional junction boxes or rerun wire from electric panel. As an example assume that the short wire has no external slack, but you can install a new junction box near the other box and in the path of the short wire. 1. Pull the short wire from existing junction box. 2. Install new box in path of short wire so more slack will be available in the additional junction box; and pull wire into new box. 3. Run a wire of the same size from new to old box and re-splice any connections for original short wire or new connections; and connect this new wire to the original short wire in the new box. Make sure you follow all code requirements for your locale.
Connect the green wire to the bare wire in the junction box. Connect the white wire to the white wire in the junction box. Connect the black blue wires to the black wire in the junction box. The black is usually the fan and the blue is usually the light on the fan. They seperate them in case you wish to hook the fan/light to two switches.
A 240 volt wire is the insulation factor of the wire. If you mean a 240 supply source from a distribution panel to a junction box then the answer is yes. You have to keep in mind that the box has to be accessible, meaning that you can get to the box to check the splice within the box. Don't bury the junction box behind the wall board.
If the system is a conduit system you usually push a fish tape down the pipe from a known location. Usually about 99% of the time the fish tape will get hung up in the junction box. This will give you a distance from a known location to start looking for the box. If it is a Romex or Loomex system your best bet is to get an electrician friend to look at the system and ask him how he would wire the circuit. This is one of the faults that DIYers tend to do, that being burying junction boxes in the walls. They don't know the fact that most fires start in junction boxes and that is why they have to be accessible.
If you do not add a junction box it looks like new wire all the way from the old junction box with new wire that is longer. It's a tough place to be.
The wire nuts do not have to be inside the junction box. They must, however, be as tight as possible to keep moisture from inside the light fixture.
to wire a 3-way like this you first need to run 14/3 romex wire from the light box to each of the 2 switch locations. at each switch connect wires as follows: white wire to common screw(usually black or brass) connect red and black wire to silver colored screws, does not matter which way. in the light box you need to identify you incoming power, once you have identified that wire connect one of the white wires from the new 14/3 romex to it,secure with wire nut.the red and black in each 14/3 romex are connected red to red, black to black. this should leave you with one white wire frm a 14/3 romex, this connects to the black wire of your light fixture, the white of your light fixture connects to the white of the incoming power wire.
There is no restriction on different size wires being spliced in the same junction box. If your question involves splicing 8ga. to 10ga, this also is not a problem so long as the circuit allows for 10ga wire.
No it is not a standard practice. That said you will find such a connection from a light fixture junction box, that has the supply source in it, down to a a light switch junction box. The neutral for the light is already at the light junction box but the switched leg has to go down to the switch. The black "hot" wire is connected to the white wire in the cable going to the switch and from the switch it returns in the black wire in the same cable which is then connected to the light fixture.
Piggyback off the box for the existing light. Run a wire from the existing junction box to a new junction box (which is placed wherever you want the new fixture). Then, in the existing box, connect the wire coming from the switch, the wire for the existing fixture, and the wire for the new fixture together using wire nuts. Wire up the new fixture, and presto, you have two fixtures on a switch where there was only one before.
The pre wire for a ceiling fan light should be made with a three wire cable. This cable will have a red, black, and white wire as main conductors. This cable will also have a bare ground wire. This wire should be strung between a two gang switch box to the fixture junction box. This pre wire allows the supply to be either fed to the two gang box. From the two gang switch junction box, one side will be used for the light in the fixture and the other side of the switch junction box, itwill be used for the fan portionin the fixture.
Yes, as long as the junction box will remain accessible at all times and the wires are held together with an approved #10 plastic wire nut. Also tape the wire nut up securely after tightening it down. Be sure and place an approved cover over the junction box.
In some cases in residential wiring you do. From a light fixture junction box to a switch box, the cable is a two wire, black and white. To connect the switch into the circuit at the fixture box, the "hot" conductor is connected to the white wire that goes down to the switch. The switched "hot" comes back on the black wire and this is then connected to the fixtures black wire. The white (neutral) is picked up in the fixtures junction box and connected to the fixtures white wire.
If you are talking about the two wires when looking in a switch junction box or light junction box they will be the switched leg. The white wire is supposed to be identified with black tape to show that it is a current carrying wire but in a lot of cases this does not get done.
If the 4 wire is coming into the switch box, what is running to the light/fan? If the 4 wire is coming into the box, the black and red should be hot with the white being a common ground. White to both the light and fan, black to the light and red to the fan. Black is the primary hot with red the secondary. Check to make sure both the black and red are hot. <<>> When discussing a romex or loomex cable don't count the ground wire as a current carrying conductor. Your four wire should read three wire. If the existing switch box is a single gang box you will have to obtain a duplex switch. The wiring from this box to the fixture outlet will have to be a three wire. A #14 3C is the most practical to use. This cable will have to be fished up the wall and across the rafters to join the two junction boxes together. These two boxes will be the switch box and the fixture junction box. The existing "hot" wire feeder will have two pigtailed 6" wires connected to it in the switch box. These two pigtails connect to one side of the individual switches on the duplex switch. The red and black wires of the three wire cable connect to the other side of the switches. The white wire of the incoming "hot" cable connects to the white wire of the three wire cable. This installation will give you two individual switched circuits at the fixture box. This allows either the light or the fans to be on without the other device being on.
A tiny 2-prong junction box on the firewall. one wire comes to it from the Ignition, & the other wire goes out from it to the starter. If you take a jumper wire from the positive on the battery & touch it to the post on the junction box where the starter wire comes out, with the key on, It should start the truck. If it doesn't, you need a new starter.
Yes, as long as all splices are made inside of an approved type junction box.
Any splice or termination to a device has to be done in a junction box. Wire splices are the critical and most likely point in a circuit where a fault can occur. The purpose of the junction box is to suppress the fault to to the confines of the box. This usually is enough protection to cause any fires that may be started from the electrical fault from spreading to other surrounding combustible surfaces.
Romex, All you have to do is go to a hardware store and tell them you need house wire. It comes in a box. I am not sure how many feet. If you are just looking for the gauge, they will know that too.
No, just make sure the connections inside are tight and placed under a wire nut and taped up. The junction box must have a lid and it must be assessable at all times.
No <<>> The NO answer above pertains to a metallic or PVC conduit system. In home wiring, with the type of wire being used it would be near impossible to drag a cable through a switch or receptacle junction box without cutting the cable. Once this cable is cut, the grounds have to be spliced together and this ground wire is then required by code to be grounded to the box.