This is done all the time as an add-on to an existing system. An electrician wouldn't do this in an original installation. The considerations you have are not over loading the existing circuit; and the cosmetics involved if your wires are all concealed inside walls.
You basically connect black, white and bare wires from the outlet to the switch. You switch the hot (black) wire and run black from switch to lights in parallel and connect the white and ground in the switch box.
If you would be adding 3 60 watt lights that would add about 1.5 amps to the existing circuit.
As with any electrical installation you need to know what you are doing, power needs to be off and you have to follow best practices an electrician would use to run wires and make connections.
You'd need to branch the circuit before the switch. This can be immediately before the switch, in the box that holds the switch, but you can't get constant power from a switched circuit after its been switched.
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
If the power feed goes directly to a fixture, or if you are wishing to switch a receptacle that is not now switched, you can us a 14-2 NM cable to install a "switch loop", provided the circuit is no larger than 15 amps. To do this, after running the 14-2 NM cable, connect the WHITE conductor of the 14-2 to the hot wire. At the switch, connect the black and white conductors to the switch terminals. At the fixture or receptacle, the black wire of the 14-2 NM cable now becomes your switch leg and is connected to the black conductor of the fixture or brass terminal of the receptacle. The NEC (for the United States) requires that the switch be fed with the white wire and the black wire be used as your switch leg.
A duplex receptacle has two devices in a composite assembly on one yoke. It is the receptacle that is what you commonly think of as a receptacle [two places to plug in a lamp...] rather than a single receptacle, which has a place to connect one device. Removing the connecting bar as described in earlier answer merely allows two circuits or separate control of the two devices. original answer: a duplex receptacle is a normal looking receptacle but the little piece of copper bar between the terminal screws on the power side has been broken off and two different circuits feed the two screws- WRONG!
That led is only showing that there is power to the switch and/or the light and fan fixture. You would have to check the power at the fixture to determine if it is actually in the switched feed or the fan/light assembly.
You'd need to branch the circuit before the switch. This can be immediately before the switch, in the box that holds the switch, but you can't get constant power from a switched circuit after its been switched.
No the receptacle itself does not consume any power it is just a source of power. No amperage is used until the load is plugged in and turned on. Appliances plugged in with the switch in the off position draw no current. Devices that do not have an off- on switch will start drawing power as soon as they are plugged in. Once an appliance is switched on you are billed for the use of the electricity.
It sends a power to the starter relay/solenoid to engauge the starter. Know that the ignition switch is not what you put the key in and turn. That is the lock assembly. The ignition switch is located lower down on the steering column.
on the control cluster in front the steering wheel it's the buttons on the left side. the switches are set up like this from left to right... far left side.slide switch for interior lights and brightness center left.parking lights inner leftheadlights inner rightwasher fluid dispense. far rightwiper speed power and control slide switch
You either got a bad new Switch or more likely you have a power supply problem to the park side of the switch.
You turned off the dash light brightness control switch or blew a fuse. If you have power at the dash illumination fuse, the dimmer switch may be faulty.
You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.
fuse, bulbs
Presuming the switch worked at one point and just stopped working it is likely that the switch has failed in a normally closed position. The only other possibility is that somehow you have a wire problem whereby the hot side of supply is connected to the load side of the switch. This could be caused by an exposed wire in the switch receptacle. Suggest you turn off power at breaker and replace switch as a start. When you have the switch removed from the receptacle, with wires still connected see if switch works. If it does it could still be bad, but examine the wires around switch and see if you have any exposed wire that could be touching the load side of the switch (Side connected to the light).
The Headlight switch is where the dash receives it's power from.
The switch is likely bad. Check the power going in and out of the switch.
If the dim lights are continuously staying on there may be an issue with the dimmer switch. The actual switch may be jammed in the on position. Check the switch with a voltmeter and see if there is continuous power coming from it.