You need to match the specification for the T8 lamps in question with the ballast. There are some times form factor issues and other times the specific requirements for the lamp in question.
On the older fluorescent fixtures a four bulb fixture required two ballasts. Two lamps for each ballast. If you have changed the tubes and it still does not work, it sounds like one of the ballasts is not working. You might want to consider replacing the ballast with an electronic one. One electronic ballast will operate four tubes. The existing end sockets can be re used but they will have to be rewired. There is a diagram on the ballast label that shows the connections. This will allow you to use T8 lamps which are lower wattage. This will save money to you in the long run.
If you use a non-dimmable Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) in a circuit controlled by a dimmer switch no damage will be done but the CFL will stay bright when the dimmer is turned down whilst any other normal incandescent lamps wired into the same circuit will go dim in the normal way.Dimmable Compact Fluorescent Lamps are now available, for example in the Megaman range of CFLs. For more information see the Related Link shown below.Incandescent dimming uses any incandescent lamps and an incandescent dimmer.To dim fluorescent lamps usually requires use of fluorescent dimmers AND fluorescent dimmable ballasts. If these two components do not match, dimming will not work.The fluorescent lamps themselves are the same whether you put them in a standard (nondimming) ballast or a dimmable ballast.If your dimmers are not dimming the CFLs they are either not fluorescent dimmers or, more likely, your ballast in the light fixture is not a dimmable ballast.
Yes.
If it is an incandescent lamp, then it will run on 240volts, but not at full wattage. If it is an HID type that has a ballast, no, it will not.
When you buy the bulb. All of those specifications should be on the package. To figure the Kilowatts it's pulling and cost to run. kW = amps x volts / 1000. then just take your kW x price per kw. and that will give you how much it costs to run that bulb for one hour. The amperage is on the label of the ballast. When you connect the ballast to power you will see it along with the voltage and pf of the ballast. F40T12 twin 8 foot tubes, ballast usually draws about .75 amps.
On the older fluorescent fixtures a four bulb fixture required two ballasts. Two lamps for each ballast. If you have changed the tubes and it still does not work, it sounds like one of the ballasts is not working. You might want to consider replacing the ballast with an electronic one. One electronic ballast will operate four tubes. The existing end sockets can be re used but they will have to be rewired. There is a diagram on the ballast label that shows the connections. This will allow you to use T8 lamps which are lower wattage. This will save money to you in the long run.
No!
Yes, provided the bulb types are compatible with the 400 watt ballast.
A 4ft Half pipe will run about 1500 at the cheapest.
No, as there are some lamps that run off batteries or even solar power.
Yes.
If you use a non-dimmable Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) in a circuit controlled by a dimmer switch no damage will be done but the CFL will stay bright when the dimmer is turned down whilst any other normal incandescent lamps wired into the same circuit will go dim in the normal way.Dimmable Compact Fluorescent Lamps are now available, for example in the Megaman range of CFLs. For more information see the Related Link shown below.Incandescent dimming uses any incandescent lamps and an incandescent dimmer.To dim fluorescent lamps usually requires use of fluorescent dimmers AND fluorescent dimmable ballasts. If these two components do not match, dimming will not work.The fluorescent lamps themselves are the same whether you put them in a standard (nondimming) ballast or a dimmable ballast.If your dimmers are not dimming the CFLs they are either not fluorescent dimmers or, more likely, your ballast in the light fixture is not a dimmable ballast.
No, the ballast has to be matched to the lamp. 250 watt ballast, 250 watt lamp. Also be sure to match the lamp type to the proper ballast even though the wattage is the same. HPS ballast to HPS lamp, Metal halide ballast to metal halide lamp and mercury vapour lamp to mercury vapour ballast.
Yes the ballast and starter are the same you can run halide in hps, but not hps in halide.
If it is an incandescent lamp, then it will run on 240volts, but not at full wattage. If it is an HID type that has a ballast, no, it will not.
Projectors usually become dim when the "lamps" are running out and they need changing. To be honest I would suggest changing the lamps every 6 months to ensure that the lamps do not run out.
When you buy the bulb. All of those specifications should be on the package. To figure the Kilowatts it's pulling and cost to run. kW = amps x volts / 1000. then just take your kW x price per kw. and that will give you how much it costs to run that bulb for one hour. The amperage is on the label of the ballast. When you connect the ballast to power you will see it along with the voltage and pf of the ballast. F40T12 twin 8 foot tubes, ballast usually draws about .75 amps.