Possibly if you know building code requirements and the circuit requirements. Any electrical work done improperly can be deadly, it will void insurance coverage and could possibly land one in prison if damages occur. Call your local building inspector first, do it right or not at all.
Use an old nylon fishing rod to push up from the outlet to where the switch will be.
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Can you not obtain switched socket outlets, in which the socket and switch live in a single box?
Yes just determine which wire going into the switch is the hot power wire which will be black. Just send power from that black wire to the outlet.
This is done all the time as an add-on to an existing system. An electrician wouldn't do this in an original installation. The considerations you have are not over loading the existing circuit; and the cosmetics involved if your wires are all concealed inside walls. You basically connect black, white and bare wires from the outlet to the switch. You switch the hot (black) wire and run black from switch to lights in parallel and connect the white and ground in the switch box. If you would be adding 3 60 watt lights that would add about 1.5 amps to the existing circuit. As with any electrical installation you need to know what you are doing, power needs to be off and you have to follow best practices an electrician would use to run wires and make connections.
If you are taking the power from the existing light outside you have to be aware that when that outside light is switched off then the sensor light will not work. Your best choice should be power the sensor light from an un-switched source. This could be an existing receptacle outlet in a nearby location. Check your sensor configuration to see if the device has the function to be locked on and off by interrupting the voltage supply to it. If it does then a switch in its circuit is mandatory to make this function work. If this function is not included in the device then just connect it as the instructions explain and the fixture will come on when it senses movement and go off after a timed interval.
You need two separate switches. You can get two switches that are in the same form factor as a single switch (2 gang switch). You use one switch for the outlet and the other for the light. You switch the black wires which are "hot".
No, CFL bulbs are directly replaceable in existing light fittings.
Warning: This is NOT a detailed tutorial but rather an overview of the concept that omits any mention of basic electrical safety procedures or any existing wiring alternatives or obstacles you might encounter. If you are not familiar with electrical code and permits, do not attempt this. Split the hot/black wire and put the side coming from your service panel on the top lug of the switch, and the wire going to the receptacle on the bottom lug. Don't forget to connect your ground to the switch. Depending on your application this may not be legal under the current electrical code.
You need to run a wire from the existing power source to switch to switch to switch to outlet.
Change the wall outlets
You will need a receptacle that you can wire each outlet separately (not jumpered). You would then wire the switch in series on the line conductor with the outlet you want switchable. Wire the other outlet directly to the power source. You can jumper the neutral from one outlet to the other.
This is done all the time as an add-on to an existing system. An electrician wouldn't do this in an original installation. The considerations you have are not over loading the existing circuit; and the cosmetics involved if your wires are all concealed inside walls. You basically connect black, white and bare wires from the outlet to the switch. You switch the hot (black) wire and run black from switch to lights in parallel and connect the white and ground in the switch box. If you would be adding 3 60 watt lights that would add about 1.5 amps to the existing circuit. As with any electrical installation you need to know what you are doing, power needs to be off and you have to follow best practices an electrician would use to run wires and make connections.
If there is a black wire going from the outlet to the switch and the other side of the switch goes back to the outlet then just cut these wires and connect supply wire directly to outlet. If the supply goes to the switch first, disconnect from switch and connect the two wires with a wire-nut. Some situations only switch one of the two outlets in a duplex device. Do the same thing, but also replace the outlet since the strapping between both outlets has been removed.
If you are taking the power from the existing light outside you have to be aware that when that outside light is switched off then the sensor light will not work. Your best choice should be power the sensor light from an un-switched source. This could be an existing receptacle outlet in a nearby location. Check your sensor configuration to see if the device has the function to be locked on and off by interrupting the voltage supply to it. If it does then a switch in its circuit is mandatory to make this function work. If this function is not included in the device then just connect it as the instructions explain and the fixture will come on when it senses movement and go off after a timed interval.
you probably can't, you need a neutral and a live wire to make a fan work. switches normally only have live wires.
You need two separate switches. You can get two switches that are in the same form factor as a single switch (2 gang switch). You use one switch for the outlet and the other for the light. You switch the black wires which are "hot".
Nominally 110 to 120 volt power strip is okay to connect to a standard outlet.
Sure. For a light you need a fixture to hold the light and the light itself. The light needs to be connected to a voltage supply which you can get from the outlet. In the outlet box you will have a black, white and bare ground wire. Essentially you connect the white and bare wires directly to the light and switch the black wire (hot) through a switch.
No, CFL bulbs are directly replaceable in existing light fittings.
Power.