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You should just explain to him how you broke the arm. He shouldn't be mad over a broken arm.
Both. "Arm the cannon" and "Arm yourself" are both examples of using it as a verb, because it is an action word in that context, like "run," "jump," or "swim." If you are referring to the arm attached to your shoulder, then it is a noun, because your arm is a thing, and a noun is a person, place, or thing.
they are the bones that make up your lower arm. The radius helps the arm to rotate while the ulna supports the arm.
Mechanical advantage= effort arm length/ load arm length For Example Effort arm=120 cm Load arm length= 40 cm MA-120/40 = 3
you have to remove the clutch arm from the top of the trans because there is a stop on the arm stopping the shaft from spinning to release fork inside from bearing.
inside the trans. on the release bearing fork or arm
There should be a threaded rod that goes from the clutch fork to the linkage arm, this can be shortened or lengthened as needed.
If it's anything like the 05, the trick is to remove the lever for the release fork before removing the transmission. This is because the clutch plate and release bearing becomes attached to each other. This is a pull type clutch pressure plate. Meaning that the release bearing fits into a clip that is part of the pressure plate assembly. Once you press the clutch pedal, the release bearing pulls the clutch pressure plate towards the transmission, allowing the clutch disc to be released from the engine flywheel. Once you remove the atuator arm, the pivot for the release shaft is free to rotate to release the release bearing from the fork. You should see the release bearing still attached to the pressure plate once the transmission is removed. Oh, one more thing, you will have to remove the subframe in order to gain access to the transmission for removal. My car has a 4 cylinder by the way. Oh there is one more thing. You have to reinstall the release lever to the release fork arm before installing transmission. If you fail to do this, the release arm may rotate without you being aware, therefore the release bearing will become dislodged from the release fork. That is the most critical step for reinstallation.
at the end of the clutch cable remove nut from the top of that arm pull that arm off.
The clutch arm is like a teeter-todder. The clutch arm sits on a pivot point in the transmission bell housing and disengages the clutch by pushing down on the pressure place through a "throw out" bearing when the clutch pedal is pushed down.
On a 1994 F-series you need a special tool to release the spring on the plastic hydraulic line at the throw out bearing down by the trans. And the old style the clutches are usually mechanically operated and the throw out bearing functions from what is called a clutch fork or clutch arm.
You are going to have to get under the truck for this one. First off it is on the drivers side of the pickup, you will see this arm coming out of the transmission, this is called the throwout bearing fork. You will see an elongated bolt going into a kind of knuckle on that fork. That is your clutch linkage adjustment, tighten/loosen as needed. Tip: You want it so that when the clutch is aligned with you brake petal it starts to disengage the clutch, and as soon as you release it from the floor board you want it to start to bite immediately. If you don't do this part right, you will burn your Throwout bearing out, along with the clutch. SO YOU ARE WARNED! But it is really easy to have a friend press the clutch and you stay under it and adjust as needed. I really hope this helped, it is kind of hard to explain.
A molded lead ball on the end of the cable fits into a slot on the arm.
The clutch pedal is spring retrun and I assume that when you changed the clutch you had removed the adjustign screw and pivot from the cable. Ensure that the clutch pedal is in the raised position and that the clutch thow-out arm moves freely. If the arm does not move freely then the poblem is internal and you'll have to pull the transaxle again (hopefully not!) Feed the threaded end of the clutch cable through the throw-out arm, reattach the pivot and adjusting screw. until the pivot contacts the arm. Push the throw-out arm towards the front of the car adn adjust the knurled nut until there is a 3 mm gap between the pivot and the arm. Test the clutch by depressing the pedal and check that the cable is pull;ing the throw-out arm. Next start the car, select first gear and slowly release the clutch pedal until you feel the clutch enage, it should be about 2/3's the pedal travel off the floor before engagement. Good luckmalcolm
Remove clutch piston. Remove circlip on top of axe. Tap gently down on axe then rise up and support from below, use a puller to ditatch the arm. with a small screwdrver or a bit ,from the inside push the top bushin upwards . than you can pull the arm up from the lower bushing than aside and downwards.
You will remove the engine then you replace the clutch plate on the flywheel, You also will have to remove the bearing which sits in the bell housing, and then put it back together again.