The neutral wire is the return wire back to the distribution panel from the load. Without this return wire no load will work.
This will not work. Your neutral blade is gone. You need both for it to work.
Is this a fluorescent fixture? Most fluorescents will not start if the fixture is not grounded. Make sure the fixture has the branch circuit ground wire properly connected.
'Can' yes. 'Should' no. <<>> Never use a green wire for a neutral. It is colour coded for a reason and that is to protect the people that work on electrical equipment. If you turn a ground wire into a neutral it then becomes a current carrying conductor. There are times in the electrical trade when grounds have to be disconnected and if it is used as a neutral and the tradesman is holding one end and touching a grounded object a shock will occur. Again never use a green ground wire as a neutral.
A circuit can be made to work with a hot and a ground. The normal and safe way is to use a neutral wire which is bonded at the electrical panel to the ground. The neutral wire is used as a return path for electricity back to your panel. If you were to use a ground wire instead of a neutral wire you are creating a potential hazard as the circuit now employs the ground as a return path for electricity. Any stray voltage caused by equipment faults will go through the grounding system and could produce a hazard to anyone as they become part of this circuit. It is not uncommon that people get an electrical shock if they touch both a live wire and a neutral wire. If you were to do that the current in the circuit would run through you. If you use an earth ground as the return path and are in contact with the hot wire and a ground you will get an electrical shock. The bottom line here is yes the light will work, the question I would have for you is "why don't you call an electrician to solve this potentially dangerous situation?".
If you are asking about typical house hold panel, switches and lights then you would get some 12/2 AWG Romex wire and run it to everything. You want to start your taps from the load end (the lights). Tap your neutral, hot and ground to the light fixture 2. on switch 2, tap the hot going to the light to the bottom pole of the switch. next take a piece of black wire only and tap it to the top pole of switch 2 and the top pole of switch one. Then tap the hot going to light 1 to the bottom pole of switch one. tap the 3 neutrals together and the grounds together. tap the hot, neutral, and ground to light 1. lay the neutral wire onto the neutral bar in the panel. Lay then ground wire to the ground wire in the panel. Lay the hot wire to the breaker in the panel. Make sure all connections and screws are tight but do not over tighten. If you do not have good knowledge or in doubt, do not work with any live circuits or in the panel. Electricity kills regardless the voltage or amperage. If you dont know what you are doing call a pro!
you probably can't, you need a neutral and a live wire to make a fan work. switches normally only have live wires.
This will not work. Your neutral blade is gone. You need both for it to work.
Then the light won't work!!but it does work..
Is this a fluorescent fixture? Most fluorescents will not start if the fixture is not grounded. Make sure the fixture has the branch circuit ground wire properly connected.
Actually, many components do not have or need a neutral. 3-phase equipment such as motors, heaters and the like do not use a neutral. Some older 240V electric clothes dryers (in the US) did not have a neutral. The 2.5 ton, 240V airconditioner on my roof doesn't use a neutral either. Fluorescent fixtures do however, as you note, need a neutral. The two power wires coming out of the ballast are usually a black and a white wire in the US, the white wire is the neutral. On older fixtures with a separate starter, the white wire (neutral) may not go to the ballast. Instead it goes to the tube socket. It's still white, though. Note that many of the current rapid-start fixtures also need a grounded reflector to reliably start. These fixtures will require a hot, neutral AND ground conductor, properly connected, to work.
In residential wiring the white wire is neutral on the 120 volt circuits. On a 3way circuit the red is the traveler and the white is neutral. On a 240 volt 3 wire connection the white & black are hot. On a 240 volt 4 wire connection the black and red are hot and the white is neutral.
'Can' yes. 'Should' no. <<>> Never use a green wire for a neutral. It is colour coded for a reason and that is to protect the people that work on electrical equipment. If you turn a ground wire into a neutral it then becomes a current carrying conductor. There are times in the electrical trade when grounds have to be disconnected and if it is used as a neutral and the tradesman is holding one end and touching a grounded object a shock will occur. Again never use a green ground wire as a neutral.
This could mean a couple of different things. At some point in the power distribution system, the neutral bus is normally tied to the ground bus. If the neutral is not grounded, this could be called a floating neutral. More often, the term is used to describe a load, such as a light fixture or motor where the neutral wire has accidentally not been connected. The hot wire is live, but the device does not function. The neutral wire normally provides the return path for current to flow. This is a very dangerous situation. The live voltage flows from the hot wire, through the load, then into the neutral wire. If the neutral is not connected (grounded), it becomes hot! Everyone knows the hot wire can bite you, but we normally expect the neutral to be dead. We may carelessly handle the neutral, thinking it is dead, but if it is floating (unconnected), it could be live. Many people have been killed in this fashion. As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
A circuit can be made to work with a hot and a ground. The normal and safe way is to use a neutral wire which is bonded at the electrical panel to the ground. The neutral wire is used as a return path for electricity back to your panel. If you were to use a ground wire instead of a neutral wire you are creating a potential hazard as the circuit now employs the ground as a return path for electricity. Any stray voltage caused by equipment faults will go through the grounding system and could produce a hazard to anyone as they become part of this circuit. It is not uncommon that people get an electrical shock if they touch both a live wire and a neutral wire. If you were to do that the current in the circuit would run through you. If you use an earth ground as the return path and are in contact with the hot wire and a ground you will get an electrical shock. The bottom line here is yes the light will work, the question I would have for you is "why don't you call an electrician to solve this potentially dangerous situation?".
If you are asking about typical house hold panel, switches and lights then you would get some 12/2 AWG Romex wire and run it to everything. You want to start your taps from the load end (the lights). Tap your neutral, hot and ground to the light fixture 2. on switch 2, tap the hot going to the light to the bottom pole of the switch. next take a piece of black wire only and tap it to the top pole of switch 2 and the top pole of switch one. Then tap the hot going to light 1 to the bottom pole of switch one. tap the 3 neutrals together and the grounds together. tap the hot, neutral, and ground to light 1. lay the neutral wire onto the neutral bar in the panel. Lay then ground wire to the ground wire in the panel. Lay the hot wire to the breaker in the panel. Make sure all connections and screws are tight but do not over tighten. If you do not have good knowledge or in doubt, do not work with any live circuits or in the panel. Electricity kills regardless the voltage or amperage. If you dont know what you are doing call a pro!
To make any electrical circuit work it has to be complete. Source of power to the load, the load itself and a return path from the load back to the source. The source in this case being the distribution panel. Any breaks in this complete path will cause the current to stop flowing and the device to not work. A light fixture and light switch work on this principle, open the circuit and the light goes out.
it willbe under the left side cover that also covers the front sprocket look for the switch that has a light green wire with a red stripe