The neutral wire is the return wire back to the distribution panel from the load. Without this return wire no load will work.
When wiring a Intertek 4003485 light fixture for a 42 watt fluorescent bulb, follow the manufacturer's instructions provided with the fixture. Typically, you will need to connect the black wire to the live/hot wire, the white wire to the neutral wire, and the green wire to the ground wire. It's important to switch off power before performing any electrical work for safety.
This will not work. Your neutral blade is gone. You need both for it to work.
The one wire carries the electricity or voltage. The lamp is grounded completing the circuit. You don't. The light switch is only half the circuit, a lamp has nothing to ground to so it can not work. If the wire to the switch is 3 wire, the bare wire would complete the circuit and power the plug, but it would not be up to code and could present a fire hazzard.
The black wire originating from a breaker box or fuse box is the live wire. However, in certain cases, the grey (or white) neutral wire can also be live. For example, the black wire may feed a lighting outlet, and if the neutral wire is broken on its way back to the neutral bar in the panel, then the neutral wire from the lighting outlet will be hot, because there is an electrical path from the black wire, through the light, and to the neutral. The point is, always check with a voltmeter before assuming the white or grey wire is not live.
Well, honey, if you connect the earth wire instead of the neutral wire in a lamp, it ain't gonna glow. The earth wire is there for safety, not for powering up your light bulb. So, if you want that lamp to shine bright like a diamond, you better stick with the neutral wire where it belongs.
To install a light switch that does not require a neutral wire, you can use a switch that is designed to work without one, such as a wireless or battery-powered switch. These switches use alternative methods to power the switch and control the light without needing a neutral wire. Simply follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation to set up the switch without the need for a neutral wire.
you probably can't, you need a neutral and a live wire to make a fan work. switches normally only have live wires.
To properly wire a light fixture with only 2 wires, you will need to connect the black wire from the fixture to the black or hot wire in the electrical box, and the white wire from the fixture to the white or neutral wire in the box. It is important to turn off the power before working on the wiring to ensure safety. If you are unsure or uncomfortable with electrical work, it is recommended to consult a professional electrician.
When wiring a Intertek 4003485 light fixture for a 42 watt fluorescent bulb, follow the manufacturer's instructions provided with the fixture. Typically, you will need to connect the black wire to the live/hot wire, the white wire to the neutral wire, and the green wire to the ground wire. It's important to switch off power before performing any electrical work for safety.
This will not work. Your neutral blade is gone. You need both for it to work.
In a residential setting, the correct wiring diagram for a light switch and outlet involves connecting the hot wire to the brass terminal on the outlet, the neutral wire to the silver terminal on the outlet, and the ground wire to the green terminal on the outlet. The hot wire is then connected to the brass terminal on the light switch, and the neutral wire is connected to the silver terminal on the light switch. Make sure to turn off the power before attempting any wiring work.
The one wire carries the electricity or voltage. The lamp is grounded completing the circuit. You don't. The light switch is only half the circuit, a lamp has nothing to ground to so it can not work. If the wire to the switch is 3 wire, the bare wire would complete the circuit and power the plug, but it would not be up to code and could present a fire hazzard.
The correct wiring diagram for a light switch involves connecting the hot wire to the brass screw, the neutral wire to the silver screw, and the ground wire to the green screw. Make sure to turn off the power before attempting any wiring work.
Then the light won't work!!but it does work..
The black wire originating from a breaker box or fuse box is the live wire. However, in certain cases, the grey (or white) neutral wire can also be live. For example, the black wire may feed a lighting outlet, and if the neutral wire is broken on its way back to the neutral bar in the panel, then the neutral wire from the lighting outlet will be hot, because there is an electrical path from the black wire, through the light, and to the neutral. The point is, always check with a voltmeter before assuming the white or grey wire is not live.
Actually, many components do not have or need a neutral. 3-phase equipment such as motors, heaters and the like do not use a neutral. Some older 240V electric clothes dryers (in the US) did not have a neutral. The 2.5 ton, 240V airconditioner on my roof doesn't use a neutral either. Fluorescent fixtures do however, as you note, need a neutral. The two power wires coming out of the ballast are usually a black and a white wire in the US, the white wire is the neutral. On older fixtures with a separate starter, the white wire (neutral) may not go to the ballast. Instead it goes to the tube socket. It's still white, though. Note that many of the current rapid-start fixtures also need a grounded reflector to reliably start. These fixtures will require a hot, neutral AND ground conductor, properly connected, to work.
Well, honey, if you connect the earth wire instead of the neutral wire in a lamp, it ain't gonna glow. The earth wire is there for safety, not for powering up your light bulb. So, if you want that lamp to shine bright like a diamond, you better stick with the neutral wire where it belongs.