A grounding bar is most often located in the breaker panel. This is where all your grounding conductors are landed. If the panel is your primary service panel, neutrals and grounds can both be landed there.
The NEC (US) requires that all service equipment be bonded together. This includes your meterbox. To most people bonding and grounding look alike but they serve different purposes. In most cases this bonding consists of a #6 AWG solid copper conductor connecting your service panel to your meterbox and also whatever you happen to be using as a grounding electrode, usually a water pipe and ground rod.
Consult a competent electrician for what is required in your area. I was on a job once where the city inspector expected this bonding conductor to be run with the service conductors inside the same conduit, which is what I would expect. But the power company for the same job required it to be run outside the conduit which is acceptable practice. Both were right, but we had to do it one way for the inspection and another way before power was supplied.
The panel and breaker have to be of the same manufacturer. This way the breaker will fit into the panel. If the panel has a push in bus bar, the breaker must also be the type to accept the bus bar. If the bus bars in the panel are of the bolt in type then the breaker also has to be a bolt in breaker.
Sounds like it is a 220-240 Volt hot water heater. The black and red are connected to the 220 volts supply and the white is connected to Neutral. At the breaker panel red and black connect to the 2-pole 220 volt breaker and white goes to the neutral bus bar.
Without more information that appears to be a 240 volt circuit. Red & black would connect to the 240 volt breaker, white connects to the neutral bar, and ground conductor from the ground rods or ground plate connects to the neutral bar. Make sure that the bonding screw is in the neutral bar and it is screwed through to bond the distribution panel enclosure to the neutral bar.
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Washing machines in the U.S. operate on 120 volts. That requires a single pole 20 amp breaker and wired with 12/2 w-ground wire. Black to the breaker, white to the neutral bus bar, and copper ground to the ground bus bar.
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At the breaker box the black and white will be on a double-pole breaker (or maybe even two separate breakers). To convert to 110V attach the black to a single pole 15 amp breaker, the white to the neutral bus bar (like all the other whites in there) and the ground to the grounding bar (like the other grounds). Then replace the receptacle with a regular 15amp 110V.
Take out the double pole breaker, place the white wire on the grounding bar along with the ground wire, install singe pole breaker(size needed) attach black wire onto new breaker and you now have 110 line.
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Arcing is caused by a poor electrical connection. The breaker is not making good contact with the buss bar. Try replacing the breaker.
The panel and breaker have to be of the same manufacturer. This way the breaker will fit into the panel. If the panel has a push in bus bar, the breaker must also be the type to accept the bus bar. If the bus bars in the panel are of the bolt in type then the breaker also has to be a bolt in breaker.
Ground wire connects to the ground bar, white wire connects to the neutral bar, and black wire connects to the breaker. Be sure and turn off main breaker before installing the wire or the breaker.
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Bonk Breaker has a unique website that gives you detailed information about the energy bar. They break everything down into sections and the calories that the bar includes.
A sliding head breaker bar is a large wrench that is used to break stubborn bolts free. The head slides because of a ratcheting action so that the operator does not have to remove the bar to move it back and forth.
Black. wire goes to breaker, white wire goes to neutral bar, and copper wire goes to ground bar.
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