Draw two parallel vertical lines on a piece of paper. Visualize these as a left side and a right side of an upright ladder. The left side will be called the "hot" wire and the right side will be the neutral wire. The cross pieces in this diagram will be the rungs of the ladder. Draw a line from the left hand side of the ladder to the right hand side of the ladder. Insert into this rung one of the two light bulbs. Below this rung copy the above rung with the second light bulb. Into this second rung insert a switch in series with the second bulb. When the complete circuit is powered on the first bulb will light and depending on the position of the switch in the second rung, the second bulb will light if the switch is closed. If the switch in the second rung is open the bulb will not light.
This will be the drawing that your scenario suggests.
If we assume that you are using a common 15 Amp lighting circuit and switch and using 120 volts to power the bulbs then you need to keep the wattage at 80% of 15 amp worse case or 12 amps. Watts = amps x volts for standard incandescent bulbs. 12 x 120 = 1440 watts.
If multiple bulbs are in series across the power source,then failure of one bulb extinguishes all bulbs.If multiple bulbs are in parallel across the power source,then failure of one bulb leaves the others unaffected.
Without knowing some more facts, there could be several different answers to explain why a ceiling fan's lights "go out":someone has turned them off at the switch for the lights on the fan unit;the light bulbs are "dead" and need replacing because their filaments have broken;there is a fuse protecting the lighting circuit and it needs replacing because it blew from the surge of high current that sometimes happens when a light bulb "dies";there is a timer in the fan unit which turns the lights off after a certain period of time;the wiring from the switch to the light has become disconnected;the switch in the fan that controls the lights is broken and needs to be replaced...
Remember that dimmers are for incandescent lights only unless you invest BIG BUCKS on dimmable fluorescent lights and fluorescent dimmers. Make sure that the switch that you replace with the dimmer does not control a plug-in outlet unless it is a lamp. You could do harm to an appliance not designed for such use. Otherwise,just add up the wattage of all the bulbs on the dimmer and buy one of the next size rating. So if you have two 60 watt bulbs, two 75 watt bulbs-- that's 270 watts total.Find a dimmer rated for 300 watts or more.
The number of poles refers to how may separate signals or if you will, wires you switch when the switch is activated or deactivated. For example your typical light switch just switches the hot wire and turns the light on or off and is called a SPST switch. The SPDT switches a signal to either of two circuits. So for example, if you had hot connected to the input and a light connected to each output (Throw), you would have one light on and one off and each time you throw the switch the lights switch which is off and which is on. The DPDT can switch two separate signals at the same time and each goes to one of two separate circuits. If you had two separate breakers and four light bulbs you could hook up one breaker hot to one pole and the other breaker to the second pole. If you had four light bulbs each connected to each of two switch outputs, then one bulb from each breaker would be on and when switched the other bulb on each breaker would be on. For diagrams just search for SPDT and DPDT.
because the switch is closed
it's bulb 3
Headlight switch (IT) controls the dash lights ALSO.Some have a fuseable link..ASSUMEING all the bulbs are g00d..
The two bulbs will be wired in parallel with each other. The switch will be wired into the circuit upstream of the bulbs.
either both bulbs burnt out highbeam only or you need a headlight switch (controls signals, cruise(if it has it), and headlights)
The switch will not increase the current. The only thing that will increase the current is adding a larger load.Another AnswerTo maximize current flow in a circuit with 2 Flashlightbatteries, 2 Flashlight bulbs, and a switch, set aside the bulbs, put the batteries in series, connect the switch between the end poles of the battery set, and close the switch. The batteries will get hot and probably leak electrolyte, and be drained in seconds.If you want to maximize current through the circuit withthe bulbs in it, connect the bulbs in parallel to each other, and in series with the switch.
The neutral safety switch is what controls the reverse lights. It is located on the top of the transmission almost directly below the brake master cylinder.
Check all the fuses. If not bulbs or switch that's all that it can be,
Connect the two batteries for the voltage needed. If they are 12 volt batteries and the lights are 12 volts, connect the batteries in parallel (negative to negative and positive to positive). If they are 12 volt batteries and the lights are 24 volts, connect the batteries in series (negative of one battery to positive of the other). Run a wire from batteries to first switch, then to two of the lights and the other switch (in parallel). From the second switch run a wire to the third light, then connect all three lights back to the battery.
The instrument light dimmer is on the main lighting switch - rotate to dim or brighten. Have you checked that your instrument light bulbs are all OK?
Fuse, flasher, switch, bulbs, wires, ignition not on, dead battery,Fuse, flasher, switch, bulbs, wires, ignition not on, dead battery,
Usually parking/tail and dash lights Check bulbs they are double filamented Larger for tailights Check sockets for power/ground Could be a bad leg on switch