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In a household circuit, with a "hot" conductor insulated black and a white neutral, the black wire should connect to the center terminal of the socket. The outside part of the socket usually has a brass screw (for the black wire) and a nickel screw (for the white wire).
The hot wire's cover is smooth and connected to what I call the "button" at the bottom of the socket. The neutral wire's cover has ridges and is connected to the screw shell of the socket.
Wall receptacles are wired in parallel. black to black, white to white, ground to ground.
It is a series circuit, where all the lamps (for instance) is on the same wire. If one lamp fails, the rest lamps will also go out.
Because that completes a circuit. The live wire is one terminal of a high voltage transformer at the substation. The other terminal is grounded to earth ground, and earth is conductive.
The term plus or minus is usually a term designated to DC Sources. The terminology for AC systems in laymen terms is neutral and "hot". On a lamp socket, for safety reasons the lamp shell should be connected to the neutral wire and the "hot' wire connected to the bottom centre contact point. In North America this is done automatically by connecting the white wire the silver coloured terminal and the black coloured wire to the brass coloured terminal. If the lamp socket is on a table lamp and it is wired with lamp cable, the neutral is identified by the raised rib on one of the two wires.
In a household circuit, with a "hot" conductor insulated black and a white neutral, the black wire should connect to the center terminal of the socket. The outside part of the socket usually has a brass screw (for the black wire) and a nickel screw (for the white wire).
The hot wire's cover is smooth and connected to what I call the "button" at the bottom of the socket. The neutral wire's cover has ridges and is connected to the screw shell of the socket.
When one wire or terminal is not connected to a light bulb, it is not possible for electricity to complete the circuit. When a circuit is not completed, the bulb will not light. An off switch, for example, breaks the circuit.
This answer website does not have the ability to draw diagrams. From the positive side of the battery connect it to one side of the switch. From the other side of the switch connect it to the centre terminal of the first bulb's socket and then continue the wire to the centre terminal of the second bulb's socket. From the negative side of the battery, connect a wire to the shell terminal of the first bulb's socket and then continue the wire to the shell terminal of the second bulb's socket. When you turn the switch on the both lamps will glow.
Lights Don't WorkUsually this is caused by an "open circuit" caused by a connector or splice in the circuit between the control switch and the light.Open circuits can be caused by several things, a few of which I can recall now:A disconnected connector or splice in the circuit.Corrosion buildup inside a connector.Corrosion in the metal "socket" the lamp [light bulb] is inserted into.A cut or broken wire in the circuit including the ground wire between the lamp socket and the grounded car body sheet metal.
The code says one wire per one terminal.
When your cigarette lighter fuse is good and there is voltage measured between the fuse's load side to ground (To check this, use a dc voltmeter or a 12v automotive lamp and an automotive lamp socket. Connect one wire to the fuse and the other wire to the chassis of the vehicle the lamp should glow if voltage is present on the fuse terminal.), check the wire between the fuse and cigarette lighter. This wire should be without cut and when the wire is good then check the connector on the cigarette lighter socket for loose connection or corrosion. One more thing is that, make sure that your cigarette lighter fits the cigarette lighter socket because not all cigarette lighters will work on some cigarette lighter sockets.
It means the wire for the plug comes out right at the bulb socket, as opposed to running down the lamp internally and exiting at the base...
Imagine a series circuit consisting of a battery, a wire from its negative terminal to a lamp, and another wire from its positive terminal to the lamp. The electricity would flow from the battery's negative terminal to the lamp and then back to the positive terminal of the battery: it's always negative to positive. Scientists were not aware of this until long after electricity discovered. They thought electricity flows from positive to negative and this was accepted for a long time. When someone asks you to use conventional current, it means assume the current flows from positive to negative, which is the opposite of what happens in reality. The negative terminal (the technical name for this is cathode) of an electrical energy supply, such as a battery, releases electrons with energy in them. These electrons drift to the appliance (i.e. the lamp in this case). The lamp then uses the energy in the electrons to produce light and heat before letting the electrons out on the other side. These electrons have little or no energy but they would drift back to the battery to regain energy and the cycle continues until the battery is depleted of energy. The electrons leave the lamp at the speed at which they enter the lamp.
The one wire carries the electricity or voltage. The lamp is grounded completing the circuit. You don't. The light switch is only half the circuit, a lamp has nothing to ground to so it can not work. If the wire to the switch is 3 wire, the bare wire would complete the circuit and power the plug, but it would not be up to code and could present a fire hazzard.
Disconnecting a wire from a battery would break the circuit. If the battery was powering a bulb, the lamp would go out.