If everything on the circuit is dead, I would start at the breaker box.
Start with the simple stuff -trip and reset every breaker individually, not just the suspicious circuit or just the main. Sometimes, a breaker trips -but not to the extent that the tab flips to "off".
If that doesn't work, leave the breaker on and, with a multimeter set to ACV, put one lead on the ground bar and the other on the screw head on the breaker. You should get a reading of 110V -if not 110V, then remove and replace that breaker.
If you do get a 110V reading, the problem is an "open" in the circuit. Think of a circuit as a chain and the outlets/switches are the links. If a link is not connected, the remainder of the circuit (everything after the open) will not work. Start at the breaker box and trace the circuit to each of its connections at the switches and outlets. Remove the outlet/switch covers and peek inside the box to make sure the connections are secure. You can inspect the circuit with the power on or off. If you do leave the power on, use extreme caution while you're probing around -you might just find the open circuit the hard way!
If you still don't find the open circuit, test each link (outlet/switch) separately, again starting closest to the breaker box.
If you plan to do it yourself fairly inexpensive.Depending on the type of panel you have breakers start as low as $3.00 for a 15amp breaker. If you are looking to have a professional do it you will probably pay at least $5.00 per breaker plus whatever the going rate for labor in your area is.
An electrical contractor or electrician would definitely be competent to help with that repair. The handyman laws in some states allow a handyman to perform minor repairs such as replacing a circuit breaker. It's a simple process, you just have to make certain that you shut down the power so nobody gets electrocuted. Replacing a circuit breaker is not a minor repair, NFPA 70E - Standard for Electrical Safety in the Workplace as well as the National Electrical Code state that only a qualified person can do electrical work. A qualified person is "One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations and has received safety training to recognize and avoid the hazards involved."
yes. But this is not a handyman level project. It is suggested you "Call a pro." What you're looking for is not another "main breaker" but a "sub-panel" that is fed by a "feeder" cable from the main panel. Have your electrician calculate the load you'll need in the out-building, then design and install a new feeder circuit and sub-panel for it.
This is properly understood when Ohm's Law is applied: Voltage, Amperege and Resistance are correctly applied to a circuit for it's correct function. The circuit breaker acts as a protective device and trips when a correct electrical circuit does not exist. The wrong breaker may have been installed. the wrong gauge of wire may have been used, the pumps and heaters may be drawing more amps then planned for or a short circuit or loose connection are all possible faults. Contact the electrician that installed the system for resolution of the problem or an outside electrician if the problem isn't corrected. Caution: Water and Electricity should not be trusted when in close proximity.
If it is half the house, that implies the main breaker or the line coming in. Sometimes, double breakers will trip one of them and not the other. It looks like it is still on. Try flipping the breaker off and back on. If you feel comfortable doing it, open up the panel and check each breaker to see if current is getting through them. Just a two prong test light will tell you this. Start on the main, it may be that one of the lines coming in is dead. Looking at the question, you blew a fuse but the breaker does not show a blown fuse. You shouldn't have both in the same circuit. If you have screw in fuses there should be 2 large Buss fuses at the top of the panel. One of these could be blown. These have to be checked with a tester, there is no way to tell just by looking.
There are several circuit breakers in that vehicle, need to know which one you are looking for.
If you plan to do it yourself fairly inexpensive.Depending on the type of panel you have breakers start as low as $3.00 for a 15amp breaker. If you are looking to have a professional do it you will probably pay at least $5.00 per breaker plus whatever the going rate for labor in your area is.
From Your Question It Looks Like You Are Asking Can You Put Two (2)Pole Breakers Side By Side In A Breaker Box, Yes You Can. If This Is Not Your Information You Are Looking For Rewite You Question. Good Luck
Breakers and other electrical equipment are rated in voltage so you know what voltage they can withstand. The breaker could fail and start a fire if you apply a higher voltage than it is rated for. Breakers are actually rated in amps (current in excess of this will trip it), interrupting rating (how many amps the breaker can handle during a short circuit) and in volts (is the difference of potential or the pressure that is pushing the current). The breaker I am looking at is rated for 15 amps, 10,000 amps interrupting rating and 120/240 volts.
An electrical contractor or electrician would definitely be competent to help with that repair. The handyman laws in some states allow a handyman to perform minor repairs such as replacing a circuit breaker. It's a simple process, you just have to make certain that you shut down the power so nobody gets electrocuted. Replacing a circuit breaker is not a minor repair, NFPA 70E - Standard for Electrical Safety in the Workplace as well as the National Electrical Code state that only a qualified person can do electrical work. A qualified person is "One who has skills and knowledge related to the construction and operation of the electrical equipment and installations and has received safety training to recognize and avoid the hazards involved."
The most likely problem is that the breaker has tripped. On some breakers there is a indication window that shows a red flag if the breaker needs resetting. On other breakers there is no indication but a slight misalignment of the breaker handle as compared to the other ones. On the distribution panel find the breaker number of the circuit that is off from the panel index. Push the breaker handle to the furthest off position that you can. As the handle is moved to the off position you will feel a bit of resistance. Push past it as that is the breaker resetting. Return the breaker to the on position to see if the circuit has re-energized. The only other reason is that a wire has become disconnected in the circuit. If you have been doing any electrical work on the circuit start looking in that area. To troubleshoot these types of problems it will require the use of a volt meter to check to see if the circuit is "hot" from the breaker out. Then it is just a matter of finding where the voltage stops and locate the problem.
yes. But this is not a handyman level project. It is suggested you "Call a pro." What you're looking for is not another "main breaker" but a "sub-panel" that is fed by a "feeder" cable from the main panel. Have your electrician calculate the load you'll need in the out-building, then design and install a new feeder circuit and sub-panel for it.
The question isn't the number of amps total on your branch circuits, but rather, what your MAIN breaker(s) are rated at. This will determine what size of generator you will need. And be certain that the generator is 3-phase. <<>> The formula you are looking for is Amps = kva x 1000/1.73 x voltage.
A cake breaker is a tool that gently separates cake without crushing or compressing it. Cake breakers are used primarily on angel food cakes, and are also useful on very moist or sticky cakes, Bundt cakes, and any layer cake. They can also be used on a flat cake or sheet cake to portion out pieces; after breaking, a knife or cake server is used to easily cut and remove the pieces. Cutting through a line made by a cake breaker is easy and leaves a nice looking edge.
This is properly understood when Ohm's Law is applied: Voltage, Amperege and Resistance are correctly applied to a circuit for it's correct function. The circuit breaker acts as a protective device and trips when a correct electrical circuit does not exist. The wrong breaker may have been installed. the wrong gauge of wire may have been used, the pumps and heaters may be drawing more amps then planned for or a short circuit or loose connection are all possible faults. Contact the electrician that installed the system for resolution of the problem or an outside electrician if the problem isn't corrected. Caution: Water and Electricity should not be trusted when in close proximity.
If it is half the house, that implies the main breaker or the line coming in. Sometimes, double breakers will trip one of them and not the other. It looks like it is still on. Try flipping the breaker off and back on. If you feel comfortable doing it, open up the panel and check each breaker to see if current is getting through them. Just a two prong test light will tell you this. Start on the main, it may be that one of the lines coming in is dead. Looking at the question, you blew a fuse but the breaker does not show a blown fuse. You shouldn't have both in the same circuit. If you have screw in fuses there should be 2 large Buss fuses at the top of the panel. One of these could be blown. These have to be checked with a tester, there is no way to tell just by looking.
Without knowing the brand name of the distribution panel it is hard to tell what type of breakers that you are looking for. If there is an electrical wholesaler near your location, take the sample into them for identification. They will probably be able to help you.