Yes, most definitely. Provisions for the ground wire in the dryer receptacle should be used. The feeder cable's ground wire is first grounded to the receptacle's junction box ground screw and then taken to the receptacle's ground terminal. The dryer plug configuration will match up to the dryers four wire plug in cable. When the plug is connected into the dryer receptacle the ground terminals of both devices will match and the ground wire will be continuous from the voltage source at the distribution panel and complete the circuit at the dryer. This low impedance electrical path will conduct any ground fault that could occur at the dryer and trip the feeder breaker of the dryer circuit, there by removing the fault current from the dryer circuit.
You have some serious wiring problems, for sure. My first guess is that your grounding conductor and neutral are touching somewhere and your ground is acting as the neutral when the neutral is disconnected. The light coming on when the hair dryer is used is another mystery. You need to hire a competent electrician to trouble shoot these problems.
Disconnect the battery first. First you disconnect the battery. After you disconnect the battery, you can pull it with a pair of needle-nose pliers, but only after you have disconnected the battery. It is quite important to disconnect the battery, or the thing that might be fused to the fusebox might be your hand. So disconnect the battery first.
You need 10-3 PLUS ground for this 220v application. The ground is the only uninsulated wire. If you did it with 10-2, I would suggest re-doing it correctly ASAP. That leaves you without a neutral and potential for supply to go through grounding wire to breaker box (or through a person to ground, causing electrocution). Clarification: you do not need three current-carrying conductors for all 220 v applications. There is no neutral in 220, so you only need two "hot" leads and a bare safety grounding wire. If the appliance (as here, a dryer) actually needs 110 in addition to 220, then yes, you need 10/3 cable, plus grounding wire. First of all the word "shield" in electricity refers to blocking magnetic flux. What you meant to say is "insulated" which means to block conductivity. When #?-2 NM w/ Ground wire is used in a 240 volt circiut, there is no neutral conductor. You're connecting the black and white wires hot and the bare wire as equipment ground in the distribution panel. On the dryer a 3 wire cord is connected with the neutral and ground terminals jumpered, so that the ground wire ran to the dryer serves as both ground and neutral. This is how dryers have been wired for many years in most of North America. Electrically this works because ground and neutral have the same electrical potential. Technically, however, it's wrong because a ground wire shouldn't be used as a normally current carrying conductor, and in the case of a dryer, the motor and control circuits are 120 volt, causing a small current flow in the ground conductor with a 3 wire supply. The real question is: Does a residential dryer require a separate neutral conductor or just a ground conductor? The same question asked differently does a residential dryer require a #10-2 or #10-3 supply cable? The answer is: If this is an existing dryer supply, a #10-2 cable with a 3 prong cord will work just as well as it has for decades, but if this is a new installation, a #10-3 cable and a 4 prong cord is required to abide with current laws.
=== ====== === Old practice [accepted by National Electrical Code requirements] allowed the frame [chassis] of dryer to be bonded to the neutral conductor by a link to provide ground. New NEC requirements call for separation of neutral and ground paths. In a new house, or if you install a new cable to feed the dryer, you would be required to run a wire with an insulated neutral and a ground wire [10/3 with ground - 4 wires]There are 2 possibilities:One is that there is actually a 4-wire cable feeding that outlet, in which case you CAN change the dryer outlet to a 4 wire type - you just have to put the right wires on the right terminals and make sure the ground is connected in the panel. [Even though we only used 3 wire outlets, most electricians I know had run 10/3 with a ground for dryers in case the unit got hard-wired, which used to be allowed.]The second possible answer is that you are allowed [unless your township or city doesn't allow it - always check with them first] to establish a ground-to-neutral link inside the dryer unit for the chassis ground and replace the 4-wire plug with a 3-wire plug. [See NEC Article 250.140] Answer Some dryers also have devices (such as lights and the timer) that run on 120 volts. These need a neutral that is separate from the protective ground.I got a new dryer yesterday... the plug on it has four prongs and my old one has three prongs. So can the old three prong plug be taken off my old dryer and be put onto the new dryer? I notice my old three prong plug is not color coded like the one on the new one. Also when I took the old dryer off and unplugged it, a green ground wire was still fixed to it (the old dryer), so how would I ground the new dryer being that it only has three prongs? Thanks in advance. === ===
Disconnect negative (- black)(ground) first. Reconnect last too.
If you are talking about disconnecting a battery in a vehicle, yes.
Yes, most definitely. Provisions for the ground wire in the dryer receptacle should be used. The feeder cable's ground wire is first grounded to the receptacle's junction box ground screw and then taken to the receptacle's ground terminal. The dryer plug configuration will match up to the dryers four wire plug in cable. When the plug is connected into the dryer receptacle the ground terminals of both devices will match and the ground wire will be continuous from the voltage source at the distribution panel and complete the circuit at the dryer. This low impedance electrical path will conduct any ground fault that could occur at the dryer and trip the feeder breaker of the dryer circuit, there by removing the fault current from the dryer circuit.
no matter what vehical it is, the proper way to disconnect a battery is to disconnect the ground side first ,then the positive side to reconnect it is exactly opposite you connect positive side irst then connect ground side ground side in case your not sure is the negative side of battery
Positive, because the negative terminal is usually used as the ground plane.
what did the hair dryer look like first
pictures of the first ever clothes dryer
Always dis-connect ground first on any vehicle.
You have some serious wiring problems, for sure. My first guess is that your grounding conductor and neutral are touching somewhere and your ground is acting as the neutral when the neutral is disconnected. The light coming on when the hair dryer is used is another mystery. You need to hire a competent electrician to trouble shoot these problems.
The first hair dryer was made in 1920 but was very heavy almost like a vacuum cleaner it was not until 1920 when the first proper hair dryer was made.
the hair dryer was invented by Alexandre in 1890 but the first had held hair dryer was invented 1971.
Well the first electrical dryer was first created by Mr. Mike Hunt but assisted by Mike Ocksbig.