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- Its not HAVC it's HVAC.
HVAC is basically climate control of confined space with respect to requirements of persons or goods in it. HVAC system is not only heating and cooling of air but also concerned with maintaining the indoor air quality (IAQ). Heating of air is done usually in winter and similarly cooling of air is done in summer season.
What else can I help you with?
If you havc a money hows anc you get mores ay?
lay off the dope buddy
How do you fix the air conditioner on a 1990 Safari that blows through the windshield vent went you accelerate but will blow through the regular vents when you let off the gas?
This A/c system uses a vacuum system to control it's mode(vent , panel, defrost, floor) and defaults to defrost due to a vacuum leak in the system. The first area to check is the vacuum check valve, found at or near the vacuum source. Then check the vacuum hoses to the vacuum reserve canister. If no problem found in these areas, then further diagnoses of the control head and HAVC assemble, by a qualified a/c technician.
What is the difference of HAVC VRV and VAV?
VRV stands for Variable Refrigerant Volume and refers to an air conditioning system which varies the volume of refrigerant in the coil to meet requirements. VAV stands for Variable Air Volume and refers to an air conditioning system which varies the volume of supply air into the room to meet requirements.
Can anyone tell me why my 99 grand prix external temp is still displaying the wrong temp after i replaced the external ambient sensor for dual climate control?
Does it always give false readings or just at times near start up? thought this may helpThe outside air temperature sensor is located in the frontgrill area under the front bumper of the vehicle. The HAVC control head usesthis sensor to receive information on ambient air temperature. With this information,the HVAC control head will give the driver the outside air temperature on the digital display. If the outside temperature increases, the displayed temperaturewill not change until:The vehicle's speed is above 32 km/h (20 mph) for approximatelyone and a half minutes.The vehicles speed is above 72 km/h (45 mph) for approximatelyone minute.These delays help prevent false readings. If the displayed temperaturegoes down, the outside temperature display is updated immediately. If thevehicle has been turned off for more than three hours, the current outsidetemperature will be shown when the vehicle is started. If it has been turnedoff for less than three hours, the temperature will be recalled from the previousvehicle operation.
What is Pittsburghh joint in HAVC duct work?
Refer to the SMACNA reference for metal duct construction. The Pittsburg joint is used for most commonly fabricated metal retangular ducts. Most modern sheetmetal fabrication shops use a mechanized piece of equipment to create the Pittsbugh joint on one edge of the sheet metal that is being formed into a retangular duct. The Pittburgh joint is basically a series of bends in the sheetmetal that create a female joint that will accept the male end of the rectangular duct. The female joint includes an extended section of sheet metal that is mechanically or manually hammered over the male edge of the sheet metal once it is positioned within the Pittsburgh joint. It is much easier to understand when viewing a piece of flat piece of sheet metal that is being formed into a section of duct with a mechanized piece of equipment found in most sheet metal shops. I have created a Pittsburgh joint with a manual hand break for specialized duct fittings. I hope the information has been helpful. Ralph Pimentel C.B.O. Member ICC ICBO IAMPO Member Sheet Metal Workers Local #77 National Building Consultants Member State of Kansas Home Inspector Board, Vice Chairman
Commercial building process?
The question is too vague. The start of any building process is planning. You need to meet with the owners, architects, engineers and trades. Design, materials, site layout ,schedule and costs & contracts are reviewed. You'll then submit some of that information to local / state municipalities for permitting / zoning review and (depending on cost) file with the clerk of the court a Notice of commencement (This doc is to help establish your trades / vendors mechanical lien rights). If further information is requested from the building authorities, you'll provide and await your "on site" set of prints and permit. Next would be a pre-construction meeting to finalize all selections made prior to start and then the site prep can begin. Depending on the size of the project some underground work will need to be done and then you can focus on grading / drainage and then proceed to the foundation. After the foundation (types include post / pier , monolithic or post tension slabs. Your walls can be as simple as stick frame or more elaborate types such as brick / masonry , "tilt-up" or steel beam. Trusses or steel beams should be set for the roof or additional floors with wood or metal decking placed. Exterior waterproofing will need to be installed (roof and walls) and then windows and doors can be placed (Some of this construction logic will differ depending on the type of structure being built, so I'm sticking to a pretty basic formula). Exterior finishes can be installed as well as the permanent roofing. You can now turn to the interior with MEPS (mechanical, electrical, plumbing & structure) HAVC should install duct work, electricians with wiring and plumbers to run pipe. Additional specialty installations may be needed depending on use or need. Inspections with the local / state authorities will happen during this process and vary based on location and type of building. Drywall can be placed and interior finishes completed. Painting and final grading of the exterior will get you closer to the completion. Driveways /parking areas, sidewalks & landscaping will complete your project. Signage type & location will vary .
How to change a heater core in a 1994-2001 Dodge Ram?
Im 16 and i did it today with my friend. i bought the core at o'riellys this morning and went home and did it. it took us about 5 hours, about 1 hour to get to the core, then about another 2 hours to get the old one out. all i did was cut the pipes on the outside of the firewall as well as i could. then i cut them inside the cab with my hacksaw right before the pipes went into the heater core. then you pull the core straight up out of the box. then i had trouble gettin the pipes out but it just took some time to wiggle them out. then put the new one in about an hour and hooked up all the tubes. it only took us about 20 minutes to put everything back in place. then added some antifreeze and its hot as hell now. so over all it went pretty smoothly. i didnt have to take out the heater box, charge the a/c, or take the dash out of the truck. so did it about $840 bucks cheaper then what the shop wanted to do it for. it was worth it.Thanks for putting up this post about replacing the heater core. I have never attempted this kind of job before and found it extremely helpful. It took quite a bit of time to do the job, but it was worth it and I'd definitely do it again.AnswerI was very hesitant about doing this. I heard how hard it was and debated having someone else do it. However, the cost of $1000 for someone else to do it was a bit steep. I figured if it took me two days to accomplish, it was still worth the savings. In the end, it was fairly straight forward and easy, except the for the bracket that holds the heater core pipes on the inside of the firewall. It took me longer to remove that one screw then to nearly do the whole job.You don't have to mess with the A/C or even remove the HVAC box out if you don't want to. It's probably a good idea to do it, but I didn't, as there is nothing wrong with mine. Do steps 1 - 7 on the post below to remove the dash. I took a strap and hooked it to the dash on the passenger side where it's secured by the bolts under the kick panel (On the metal bracket, not the plastic). I attached the other end to the grab bar and used this to gently hold the dash away from the firewall and off the ground. Once you disconnect the hoses from the engine compartment, you can remove the heater core from the top and slide the new one in.Here are a few tips that I discovered that helped me. When removing the heater hoses in the engine compartment, I just cut them with a razor knife. The hose on the driver side had plenty of hose to just re-attach to the new core. The passenger side, probably would've had enough too, but I just replaced it. On my truck that hose had two sections joined together by an adapter and clamps. Not sure if that's a stock set up, or someone else before me did that. So replacing the passenger side hose with new hose was very simple. This is much easier then trying to peel those hoses off the heater core. As I mentioned, the hardest part was removing the screw that holds the bracket and metal heater core tubing on the inside of the truck. If you have a flexible screw driver it may do the trick. Nothing at the local parts store came close. I eventually cut the tubes as close to the firewall as possible (with my Dremmel) and removed them from the engine compartment. The heater core just then lifted out allowing more room to make war with that little screw and bracket. When you're ready to put the new core in, push the core down in the hvac box and at the same time feed the new tubes through the firewall. One last tip: when it comes time to reattach the top of the dash, start with the middle screw. In all, it took me about 5-6 hours, most of that was fighting with that one screw. I could probably do it again in about 3.AnswerI changed the heater core in my 1996 Dodge truck yesterday. The book calls for 6 hours labor for a mechanic with the proper tools and knowledge of how to get everything off and back on again. It took me 8 hours. The best thing to do is take it to the dealership and let them do it! AnswerThis is for you guys out there that are afraid to change this on your own. I have a 2001 Ram 1500. My heater core went out last year and I didn't have the money for a shop to do it for me. I ordered a heater core from ROCKAUTO.COM for 63.00 and a A/C evaporator core for 120.00. Which these two items are in the same heater box under the dash. Now mind you I only wanted to do this one time so made sence to put all new parts into this at this time. Me a friend decided to tackel this project and within two hours I was back on the road. Beleive it or not this is true. I was told by everybody I talked to that this was a 8 hour job and I shouldn't try it myself. Boy am I glad I did. This was not hard at all and in the first hour we had the HVAC box out of the truck. Putting the cores in the HVAC box was a breeze. All we did was take all screws out of glove box area, take out bottom dash bolts out of kick plates on drivers and passenger side, and take out all screws from top of dash next to the glass. This makes the dash able to move away from the glass enough to wiggel the HVAC box out of truck. With alittle trial and error you can do this very easy. I would change another one again if I had to. I hope this can help some of you and give you the courage to try this on your own. I searched the web for answers forever and never found much to go on. Also you can save a ton of money by doing it yourself. Good Luck I have the Dodge repair manuals for for my 98.5 and they say that the complete dash has to be removed to repair/replace anything in the heating/AC box. I have the smell in the cab but no wet carpets yet.AnswerHeater Core remove/replace in dodge 1500 truck 1995-01. I can pull it in 3.5 hours. putting it back takes about 2 hours, plus charging the AC, about one more hour more. Having a friend around really helps. Disconnect the battery before attempting any work to avoid a short. 1)Remove first screw on plastic door sill on both sides. (the things on top of rug where door closes)Remove kick panels.2)Remove panel under steering wheel.3)Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel.4)Remove screws where windshield meets dash board.5)Remove 2 bolts left and right under dash but against sides of car (under kick panels).5a) There is a square box in the center of the dash by the floor. Take it off and take those nuts off. And disconnect the wire harness and the get the panel loose and down out of the way.6)Dashboard is now loose and can be pulled towards the seats.7)On right side of dash hook a wire way up to screw that holds moulding clips, or pull the dash towards the seat and put a jackstand under the passenger side.8)The whole heater box is now visible.9) You've got to remove vacuum lines, controls, and electric plugs from heater box.10) Now the secret: there are 2 screws holding it to fire wall on inside (one has a ground wire attached). The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up. The easiest way to get to the bolts holding the ground wire is to take out the glove compartment and then take out the airbag.11) there are 4 nuts holding it from engine side of firewall(one is behind the electric panel on the passanger side). Remove all four of these.12) Remove heater hose clamps with a hose clamp plier. This will take time, these clips are hard to get off.13) Drain the AC freon.14)the AC lines require a special tool that costs $9-12 at parts store. the kit has 6 plastic widgets. use the one that fits. play with an AC fitting near the radiator for practice first.15) you should be able to pull the heater box out now.16) Remember the dashboard is just pulled up high enough on the right to get at the heater box.17) It is a good idea to change the A/C evaporator core while doing this job. They are both in the same box.AnswerI just put a new heater core in my 96 Dodge Ram 1500. It does take about two hours to pull the dash. I didn't pull the hole thing, just loosened the drivers side bolt under the dash. And then swiveled the passenger side out, and held it away using a bungee cord. That will get the dash away enough to get behind it, and pull the core. I just cut the tubes on the core so I didn't have to remove the HAVC box. And cut the hose's under the hood, and just pulled the tubes out. I got two foot of 5/8 heater hose, four clamps, and two hose connector's. I cut the hose into one foot piece's, and feed them through the holes in the firewall and attached them to the lines I cut. I know this is hard to do to a $70 part. But cut the tubes down on the new core and clamp the hoses on. Then slide the new core in the HAVC box. Then all you have to do is put the dash back together. By the way, cutting the tubes down on the new core will void the warranty. But I could buy six or seven heather cores for what it would cost me to take it to a garage and have it done. And I don't like screwing around with AC lines. Which you have to do to take the HAVC box out of the truck, and do it the right way. As long as it work's and it's cheap I will do it. My truck has 276,000 miles on it. So you can see why I don't like to dump a lot of money into it. It cost me $80.44, and took four hours to do. The book said it would take six hours. So I'm happy.AnswerI replaced the heater core in my 2001 Ram 1500 this weekend with the help of a friend. There are several Dodge Forums on the Internet that show you how to do this, as well as the helpful answers here. There are some conflicting points that I wanted to add my input to. The first one is, my truck (and I imagine most others) had an additional bracket holding the dash to the floor hump in the middle that I didn't see mentioned in some articles. Second, there are at least 10 different wiring connectors under the dash that must be unhooked in order to raise the dash high enough to get at the air box containing the heater core. Third, holding the air box in are 2 studs inside the cab, and FOUR studs accessible from under the hood that must be removed in order to pull the air box out enough to replace the heater core. One is next to the heater hoses, two also hold the receiver/dryer, and one is behind the electrical panel near the fender. Fourth, when moving the dash around to get it out of the way, be careful not to stress it or bang on it too much or you will quickly become familiar with another problem that plagues Ram owners, the infamous cracked dash. Lastly, no matter how hard I tried I could NOT move the air box away from the firewall enough to get the new heater core in. In my opinion the A/C system MUST be discharged and disconnected at the evaporator in order to get enough room to put the heater core in. The first heater core I ordered had some sort of swivel arrangement for the inlet/outlet tubes that may make it possible to install without having to disconnect the A/C, however I didn't care for the flimsy way the tubes were connected; it looked to me like it would leak. It could have just been the one I got, but I returned it and got a different brand that had solid tubes like the factory core. I had the heater core replaced once in 2004 at the dealer at a cost of over $600, and I've read of quotes nearer $1000 to have this done today. This time I spent a total of $125 for a heater core, A/C disconnect tools, and 2 cans of R134a. It was not an easy job, and you will definitely need a friend, but it is do-able. This job took about 6 or 7 hours mostly because of having to locate and disconnect wiring harnesses, and time spent coming to the conclusion that the A/C had to be disconnected....if I had to do it again I could probably do it in 4.
How do you repair a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee dual climate control that blows cold on on one side and hot air on the other when the heater is running?
There are several things that can cause this problem with Jeep Grand Cherokees. The actuator (door motor) can cause this, the door could also be broken. There is an good article that goes into more detail - the link is at the bottom of this page. Often, the actuator motors are too strong for the plastic doors, and they break over time. The typical fix involves removing the entire dash and replacing the plenum assembly. There is a DIY kit by heatertreater that provides instructions on how to perform the repair without removing the dash.I just started experiencing this same exact issue with my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited on a road trip yesterday! It works as it should on the driver's side, but only blows cold air on the passenger side regardless of what temperature you set it on! Also, even if I completely close the passenger vents, some cold air still comes out from them and also from the floor area!I had the same problem! Here is my cheap quick fix. Remove the glove box lid, there are 2 rubber retainers that hold it in place, just pull them out they are easy to put back, the lid will now drop down to reveal the the door motor housing, disconnect the electrical lead(Make sure you remove the neg lead on the battery first)Undo the 2 screws and then pull out the motor. A new motor cost me approx 100 pounds. If you do take my approach make sure you test the motor before you buy new as it could be some other problem. Once you have removed the motor it's easy to open and close the door by it's spigot, just to make sure it's not stuck in any way. My final test was to check for power to the electrical lead. Reconnect the battery. While turning the temp conrol check with a meter to see if there is power to the lead.It sounds like you have aq problem with the right temperature door assembly. I have a similar problem with my 1999 Grand Cherokee Limited, but, in my case, the unit just blows cold air. The question is: How do you access these door assemblies to change them? Help! I am a do-it-yourself person and want to know where I can locate information about how to access the AZC system door assemblies to change them? I understand it involves removing the entire dash board in order to get access to the passenger side one that is broken. To do so I need some type of repair manual.All I know is I have the EXACT same problem with by 99 jeep grand Cherokee. It started with one side blowing cold and the other blowing hot. Now, both blow only cold air. I took it to the dealer and they wanted to charge me $800 to fix it stating it was some switch that has been going out in all jeeps this model with dual heating system yet they would not consider it under warranty as a issue. Hence, I still have no heat.I just had the problem on my 01' jeep grand the dealer told me it was a bad bun door and actuator on the passenger side at a charge of $1200.00. If your good with cars you can do the job yourself and I mean good this job was a pain in the butt the dealer est. 12hrs (plus u need to disc. the heater core and evap. for the ac) of their time it took me exactly that. Once I got the HVAC system out of the truck I noticed since the car is temp. control zoned the passenger Sid bun door which controls the flow of heat to the passenger vents was broke. The dealer was aware of the problem picked up a new part for $200 and slapped it back together worked fine( the actuator was not bad it just doesnt respond to a broken door so don't let them sell you one, you should only need a new bun door)ANSWERThe problem is a wear out mechanism with the blend doors. The doors break and are stuck in the AC position...NO HEAT. There is a new product that solves the problem. Search on Google for "heatertreater" for a complete explanation of the problem and a solution."> "> "> ">The problem with the system is the design of the actuators. The failure of this so called" bun" door is due to the poor design of these actuators. Over torque and excessive wear leads to failure....The only way to resolve this problem is by replacing both actuators and the temperature blend door assembly. Do not just replace the door!!!! ( note: fresh air door has same problem) I average one grand Cherokee a week in my Cooling systems repair shop. 675.00 is my going rate. It pays 6.1 hours and nothing more...don't be robbed by the dealership and stay away from driveway mechanics. Beware that your entire instrument panel must be removed along with the evacuation of the refridgerant. Not a "do-it-yourself" deal! Good luck and never by a Jeep again!"> "> "> ">Your failure description is the classic fail description for broken blend doors, and this is a common problem on the GC. There is an inexpensive DIY kit on Ebay from heater treater that will fix the problems without having to remove the dash panel.The HVAC system is computer controlled and when the doors break, the computer senses that the movement of the doors is out of spec and shuts the motor down. Actually it is rare for the actuator motor itself to go bad. Usually it's a broken door combined with computer control. You can check the motor with a 9V battery and a snap connector. Just touch the wires to the motor terminals and check that it turns.Another ExampleI just thought that I'd add my experience: I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 6-Cyl. About a year ago heat went out on passenger side (cold air came out on passenger side when heat was on and coming out on driver's side). Spring and Summer came, so I forgot about it. This Fall (maybe 1-2 months ago) I was reminded of the problem when the cold air came back. Now, about 1-2 weeks ago, all blower functionality is gone ... a real problem if you need to defrost the windows! I'm going to try the AZC test and look into the HeaterTreater. I'd hate to put any more big money into this vehicle as it has been a true money pit. I'll never buy another Jeep. It's a classy ride, but I've put more money into repairs for this vehicle than any other two vehicles I've owned.Easy fix is availableThere is a video available that shows the complete repair process and goes into an explanation of the root cause of the problem and the solution. You can also find the video by searching on YouTube. This is a very common problem on the Grand Cherokee and the kit gives a simple effective fix for the problem and is much much cheaper than taking it to the dealer.Assuming you are going to replace the 99/04 Jeep Grand Cherokee blend doors yourself.You would start by disconnecting the negative battery cable.If you are going to remove the dashboard, etc to replace the blend doors.some websites give you complete instructions with plenty of pictures.It will take the average person with little or no auto repair skills approximately 12 to 16 hrs.The vehicle will have to be taken to a shop that can recover the refrigerant before you start removing the dashboard and HVAC box..If you are going to do the type of repair where you cut an access hole in the side of the HVAC box.A short version of how the access hole repair is done.Disconnect the Negative battery cable.Lower the glove boxRemove the actuator motor - You will need a Phillips screw driverCut an access hole in the plastic HVAC box - Use a multi-purpose cutting bit, you will need a rotary type of cutting tool, like a Dremel, RotoZip, etc. Or you could do the cutting by hand with any type of small cutting tool, it will just take longer doing it by hand. Or some people have used a narrow pointed soldering iron!Remove the broken blend doorsInstall the new Blen Dor dual control blend doors.Replace the actuator motor.Close the access hole - Replace the wall piece of plastic you cutout -Use foam tape or an aluminum tape to cover the groove made by cutting the wall.Close the glove box.It is almost as easy as what you just read, the hardest and the most time consuming thing to do is cut the access hole.The job should take between 30 minutes to 1 ½ hours. Depending on how long it takes you to gather your tools, etc.Before you do anything major find you hvac fuse, pull it, then put it back. It might be in the fuse box under the hood or the one inside. All mine needs is to cut the power to the havc unit then it resets.
