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groins
That depends on what shore you're talking about, the streams that come by that shore, the earth's seismic activity and the weather. You'd have to be more specific for a numerical answer.
The frequency of the waves is 0.20 HZ.
The depth of a lake at a center point is a function of the distance of that point from shore.
1916
Two kinds of currents that wave action can cause near shore are "Longshore Current", which is the overall direction and movement of the waves that strike the shore at an angle. The other kind of current is "Rip Currents", which are narrow streams of water that break through sandbars and drain rapidly back to sea.
an ocean wave approaching the shore at an angle
It depends on the wind direction. The waves may be straight on to the shore, or hit the shore at an angle.
it keeps on slowing down and hitsthe shore.
Waves approach a shore obliquely (at an angle) due to the effects or the tides, currents the coriolis effect etc. and then retreat due to gravity straight. A good analogue is to roll a marble up a slope at an angle; it will fall more linearly on its return. Hope this helps.
There are many factors that determine the direction that waves take. Out in deep water, wind and surface currents affect the direction of waves. When you get closer to the coast the shape and contour of the earth's surface affects the wave's direction more.As a wave becomes shallow it slows down. If the wave is at an angle to the shallow part of the shore, the wave bends and becomes more parallel to the beach. Also most beaches are not actually straight, they curve so there are parts of the wave that are parallel to the shore.
It becomes bigger :)
they get shorter
groins
Long-shore currents don't form in places where waves hit the shore head-on because the sand is moving in a zigzag pattern, making it at an angle.
Yes they do. Only very few waves hit the shore straight on.
B. wave lines approaching shore at an angle.