groins
That depends on what shore you're talking about, the streams that come by that shore, the earth's seismic activity and the weather. You'd have to be more specific for a numerical answer.
The frequency of the waves is 0.20 HZ.
The depth of a lake at a center point is a function of the distance of that point from shore.
1916
It depends on the wind direction. The waves may be straight on to the shore, or hit the shore at an angle.
When waves from the South West strike a beach running East to West, the longshore current is likely to flow Eastward along the shore. This is because the waves will push the water along the coast in that direction due to the angle of wave approach and the prevailing wind direction causing the net movement of water along the shore to the East.
Longshore currents are driven by the angle at which waves approach the shore. When waves hit the shore head-on, rather than at an angle, there is no net transport of water along the shoreline to generate a longshore current. The wave energy is dissipated directly onto the shore, preventing the development of a longshore current.
Waves usually collide with a shore at a slight angle to prevent erosion and allow the energy to dissipate along the coast, instead of directly impacting the shoreline. This process helps to reduce the impact of the waves on the shore and minimize erosion. The angle at which waves approach the shore is influenced by various factors such as the direction of the prevailing winds and the shape of the coastline.
Longshore currents transport sediment along the coastline parallel to the shore. These currents are driven by the waves hitting the coast at an angle, causing sediment to move in a zig-zag pattern along the shoreline.
Two kinds of currents that wave action can cause near shore are "Longshore Current", which is the overall direction and movement of the waves that strike the shore at an angle. The other kind of current is "Rip Currents", which are narrow streams of water that break through sandbars and drain rapidly back to sea.
groins
Long-shore currents are generated when waves approach the coast at an angle, causing water to move parallel to the shore. When waves hit the shore head on, there is less tendency for water to move laterally along the coast, resulting in weaker or non-existent long-shore currents.
Long-shore currents don't form in places where waves hit the shore head-on because the sand is moving in a zigzag pattern, making it at an angle.
It diffracts
What Happens in AC
Their wave size increases.