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What is bellcrank lever?
A bellcrank lever is a mechanical component that changes the direction of motion or force. It typically consists of a pivoting arm connected to two linkages at different angles, allowing for the transfer of mechanical motion or force from one direction to another. Bellcrank levers are commonly used in control systems and mechanisms where a change in direction or amplification of force is required.
Where is the throttle position sensor located on a 93 Chevy lumina euro 3.1?
It is on the throttle plate opposite of the bellcrank.
How do you replace 2002 trailblazer tailgate handle?
Open the liftgate window.Remove the push-pin retainer from the trim panel.Close the liftgate window.Open the liftgate.Remove the screw that retains the pullstrap to the liftgate trim panel.Remove the pullstrap from the liftgate trim panel.Use a flat-bladed tool in order to carefully release the trim panel retainers.Remove the trim panel from the liftgate.Installation ProcedureInstall the trim panel to the liftgate.Ensure that the trim panel retainers are fully seated.Install the pullstrap to the trim panel. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.Install the screw that retains the pullstrap to the trim panel. Tighten the pullstrap screw to 4 N.m (35 lb in).Close the lift gate.Open the liftgate window.Install the push-pin retainer.Close the liftgate window.Latch Replacement - LiftgateRemoval ProcedureRemove the liftgate window garnish molding.Remove the liftgate trim panel.Disconnect the outside handle rod from the bellcrank.Disconnect the bellcrank rod from the latch/lock assembly.Remove the screws that retain the bellcrank to the latch/lock.Remove the bellcrank from the latch/lock.Disconnect the electrical connector from the latch assembly.Disconnect the lock cylinder bellcrank rod (1) from the latch assembly.Remove the screws that retain the latch/lock assembly to the liftgate.Remove the latch/lock assembly from the liftgate.Installation ProcedurePosition the latch/lock assembly to the liftgate. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.Install the screws that retain the latch/lock assembly to the liftgate. Tighten the screws to 10 N.m (89 lb in).Connect the lock cylinder bellcrank rod (1) to the latch/lock assembly.Connect the electrical connector to the latch/lock assembly.Position the bellcrank to the latch/lock assembly.Install the screws that retain the bellcrank to the latch/lock assembly. Tighten the screws to 0.7 N.m (6 lb in).Connect the bellcrank rod to the latch/lock assembly.Connect the outside handle rod to the bellcrank.Install the liftgate trim panel.Install the liftgate window garnish molding.
Why would the engine idle higher and not kick down on a 1989 Ford Thunderbird auto transmission?
A possibility is that the idle air throttle control is probably sticking. It is on top of the throttle body. I recommend replacement, this should fix your problem. Your question raises more questions: What do you mean by 'kick down'? Are you talking about the Transmission not kicking down? If so.. probable problem is the Throttle Position Sensor on the opposite side of the throttle bellcrank. Otherwise, if you are meaning the rpm wont kick down to normal, then there is a good chance you have a vacuum leak or, as said above, the ISC is gummed up or defective. To check for vacuum leak, disconnect ALL vacuum accesory tubing at the manifold EXCEPT for the Fuel pressure regulator. Plug those manifold ports and try it. Other possibilities are binding throttle cable/ trans cable at the throttle. DO NOT adjUst that throttle stop screw!!!!
How do you replace the emergency brake cables on a 1999 Ford Ranger?
1. INSPECT SHOE LINING THICKNESS Remove the inspection hole plug, and check the shoe lining thickness through the hole. If less than the minimum, replace the shoes. Minimum thickness: 1.0 mm (0.039 in.) 2. REMOVE REAR WHEEL 3. RELEASE PARKING BRAKE LEVER 4. REMOVE BRAKE DRUM HINT: If the brake drum cannot be removed easily, do the following steps. (a) Remove the adjusting hole plug in the backing plate. (b) Insert a screwdriver through the hole in the backing plate, and hold the automatic ajusting lever away from the adjusting bolt. (c) Using the other screwdriver, reduce the brake shoe adjustment by turning the adjusting bolt. 5. REMOVE REAR SHOE (a) Using SST, disconnect the return spring from the shoe. SST 09703-30010 (b) Remove the return spring from the front shoe. (c) Using SST, remove the shoe hold-down spring, cups and pin. SST 09718-00010 (d) Remove the adjuster. (e) Using needle-nose pliers, remove the adjusting lever spring. (f) Remove the automatic adjusting lever. (g) Disconnect the anchor spring from the rear shoe and re- move the rear shoe. (h) Remove the anchor spring from the front shoe. 6. REMOVE FRONT SHOE (a) Using SST, remove the shoe hold-down spring, cups and pin. SST 09718-00010 (b) Disconnect the parking brake cable from the front shoe. (c) Remove the front shoe and parking brake cable. 7. REMOVE PARKING BRAKE LEVER (a) Using a screwdriver, remove the C-washer. (b) Remove the parking brake lever. 8. REMOVE AND DISASSEMBLE PARKING BRAKE BELLCRANK (a) Remove the clip and disconnect the parking brake cable. (b) Remove the 2 tension springs. (c) Remove the 2 bolts and bellcrank.
How do you use slim Jim to unlock ford f 350?
Its simple, you simply wedge the glass and locate the vertical lock linkage connecting the vertical lock button (most fords) with the door latching mechanism. If you attempt to grab the lock pawl you will break it clean off as it is fragile/brittle delrin plastic and is not a free play pawl on door locks on ford trucks since 57 or so. Some fords have a horizontal lock linkage inside the door with either a horizontal to vertical bellcrank mechanism or a direct pull pivoted lever arm, where the horizontal linkage terminates and connects to the arm witch pivots along the Y axis, the door lever pulls twords the Z axis and the linkage slides rearward across the y axis. Other fords have a coaxial cable linkage for the door mechanism similar to that of a throttle cable and cannot be compromised . In short if you locate the vertical lock linkage or the horizontal handle linkage, or the bell crank (if applicable) then you might be able to get a grip on it with an inverted "Z" tool, or a slidelock tool bent approximately 15 degrees about 10 inches from the working end, slide the correct linkage the correct direction and you will only have bent the spine of the window's exterrior silstrip. Pull 2 or more lock rods off and you may not be able to open the door with or without a key from the inside or outside. Sorry I cant be of more help, I don't really know much about cars and locks.
How do you change the outside rear door handle on a 1993 safari van?
Safari/Astro broken rear door handleYou will need: an electric drill, 1/4" drill bit, 2- 1/4" x 2" bolts, 2 flat washers, 2 lock washers and nuts or flat washers and lock nuts. When you move the handle aside you will see what looks like two rivets; these are the heads of the bolts holding the handle to the door. Carefully drill through these bolts, you may want to centre punch the heads first. These bolts are made of aluminum so the drilling isn't too hard. Once this is done the handle comes off and you can reach in and activate the push-rod that opens the door. With the door open, look on the inside edge of the door and you'll see a small plate with four Philip's screws holding it. Remove this and you can see inside to replace the handle. I was able to repair my handle dilling out the mount with the "cast in" bolt and fit another bolt to attach the pivoting part (bellcrank) to the handle. The main problem with this handle is that it is made of cast aluminum and thus wears out with frequent use. Install the handle with it's gasket using the 2" bolts making sure the pivot and push-rod work smoothly. A little grease at the contact points helps. To make opening the door easier, try pushing gently but firmly on the door just above the door handle as you pull on the handle to open it.
What are properties of a car?
Car PropertiesIntroductionThis section will introduce you in the format of the setup files, the settings constraints and the most important properties (parameters, settings) of the TORCS cars. If you look up the default settings files there are many more settings available than presented here, but most of them you can't change (e. g. the engine). I want to mention here that you can set all these properties up without a setup file, so you are able to compute settings at the startup of the race. Setup File FormatThe setup files are XML files. The structure is very simple, you will see just sections, subsections and attributes. Numerical attributes are usually defined with a name, a unit and the boundaries which define the range of the allowed values. Settings ConstraintsThe car belongs to a car category, which defines some constraints like the range of the allowed size, engine power, weight and more. The car model settings defines then the values for its specific car and must not conflict with the constraints from the car category. After that we will load our own setup files which must not violate the constraints from the above definitions. PropertiesYou can find all mentioned properties in the file 0/default.xml (relative to the bt directory). Initial Fuel The amount of initial fuel for the setup. Perhaps you want to compute that setting at startup instead of putting it into a setup file. Feel free to improve it. For qualifying and short races you want just the minimal amount of fuel you need, for longer races it will depend on your strategy (but we need to implement pit stops first).Spoilers This section defines the angle of attack of the rear spoiler relative to the floor. When you increase the angle of attack you get more downforce and drag. If the race track has very long straights and just a few narrow turns you want a small angle of attack to reduce the drag. If there are many turns you want a big angle of attack to increase the downforce, so you can drive faster through the turns. For some cars there is also a front wing section available. The front spoiler helps to avoid understeering if you set up the rear spoiler with a high angle of attack.Gearbox ... The gearbox section defines the properties of the gears. The "r" subsection specifies the ratio of the reverse gear. The reverse gear ratio needs to be negative. The wheel velocity is proportional to the engine rpm divided by the ratios, so for the highest gear you need the least value. For quick starts you need a very high value for the first gear.Differential Here the differential type is defined. The "Free" type distributes the power without any control, so it is the classic differential you can find in most of the normal cars. The "Free" differential is a good choice for tracks with high friction and not many bumps for the qualifying. When you leave the track with the "Free" differential you perhaps get stuck in the grass, sand or dirt.The "Limited Slip" differential allows just a certain amount of speed difference between the left and right wheel. This allows you to come back to the track from grass and dirt. This is most often the best setting for races.The "Spool" setting links together the right and the left wheel, so it's usually a bad setting for all turns. It could make sense on a very bumpy road or for offroad races.Brakes The front-rear brake repartition defines how to distribute the pressure in the brake system. If the value is 0.0 all pressure goes to the rear brakes, if it is 1.0 all pressure hits the front brakes. The max pressure setting defines the pressure for applying full brakes.Wheels The ride height setting defines the initial distance of the cars floor to the track. When you decrease the ride height the downforce increases because of the ground effect, but you cars floor may hit the track. With toe (on the left on the sketch) you can define the initial angle of the wheel to the car. You can improve the stability or the response to steer commands with these settings. Camber (on the right on the sketch) defines the angle of the wheel to the track. At the moment it increases simply the adherence on the track in the simulation when you decrease the angle (toward negative values).Anti Roll Bar The anti-roll bars prevents the car body from rolling (e. g. in fast turns). When the car body rolls (on the bottom of the sketch) the tire contact patch becomes smaller and the grip drops down. The spring setting defines how strong the anti-roll bar is linked. With a high bellcrank value you can increase the strength of the link further.Suspension The spring setting defines how stiff the spring is. The suspension course defines the distance which the suspension can move. With the bellcrank you can make the whole suspension system more stiff (higher values) or soft (lower values). The packers limit the suspension movement. You need this if you want a soft setup and avoiding the car floor hitting the track on fast track sections. Slow bump and rebound allow you to set up the damping of low frequency oscillations, e. g. caused by braking and steering. Fast bump and rebound are for damping high frequency oscillations, e. g. caused by bumps on the track or if you hit the curbs.
How do you adjust the idle speed on a 1992 paseo it idles at like 2200rpm after its warm and if you switch it into neutral at a light?
Check for a vacuum leak. Is the air conditioning turned on when this is happening? If so there is an air bleed screw/knob that needs to be adjusted (turned in or out) with the A/C turned on to decrease (turn clockwise) the amount of air that is bled into the intake manifold when the A/C is on. It may also be a bad coolant temp sensor or as mentioned above you may have an air leak. Is the "service engine soon" light on when the engine is running? If it is then you need to get someone (or yourself) to retrieve the code(s) from the ECU (computer in the car) as that may/will tell you what is not working properly. A Repair manual like Haynes or Chiltons will tell you how to jumper the diagnostic box under the hood so that with the ignition key turned on, will then allow you to retrieve the Diagnostic Codes. -- I have a '92 Paseo, M/T, it has well over 200K miles... and predictably, some issues with idle. My troubleshooting here is for a M/T model. If yours is an auto, you may need to troubleshoot the throttle opener module for those cars. You'll need to consult a Toyota or Chilton's service manual for how-to. On a M/T '92, low or rough idle is much more common than high idle. Unless you've been messing with the idle screw atop the intake manifold, it doesn't just creep up on its own. However, there's one cause of high idle that IS very common: the infamous IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). Even so, it usually prevents the car from starting, rather than causes high idle. But since it's easiest, let's fix and rule this out. The IACV is a thermally-operated valve that opens and raises idle when the engine is cold, to speed warming of the engine and catalyst. Set correctly, it should top out at 1500 rpm, and as coolant via hoses warms the bimetallic spring inside the IACV, it'll close, slowly bringing idle down to a normal 750 rpm, fully warm. When they fail, they usually fail fully-open, or fully-closed; yours may have failed fully-open. Here's how to fix it... -- engine cold and off -- remove the intake air hose clamps (for the big black hose connecting air filter box and throttle body). Remove the side hose going to the valve cover, and set aside. -- On the floor of the TB, outside the brass throttle plate, is a big hole about 7 o'clock. This is the air bypass port for the IACV. Spray carb cleaner all around in it, for a few seconds (don't go too crazy, though). Let set for a few minutes, repeat once. -- while you're in here, get an old toothbrush, and spray the throttle plate with cleaner, and scrub off the dirt and crap on it (open the bellcrank to clean the inside of the plate, too). This can improve response, power and mileage, if the buildup is bad enough. Wipe off any excess cleaner. -- Reinstall the air hose. There are two arrows on the hose that line up with arrows and marks on the TB and air filter box -- make sure they line up, or when the engine rocks, it can damage a poorly-installed hose. -- Get in the car, and start the engine WOT. This is to allow air to get in and cut the fumes from the cleaner; otherwise it won't start. You may need to crank for a few seconds to get it to catch. Several cranks at a few seconds each, are better than one long one; save your battery. -- Is idle still high? If not, your IACV was stuck open; should be better now. If so, shut off engine and go on to the next adjustment... you'll need an inductive tachometer for this one -- can't use the car's tach unless you have no other choice. -- Get a big paper clip. This is your jumper wire. Look next to the fuse box in the engine compartment (next to the air filter box) for a small brown box; this is your diagnostic port. On the inside of the cover, look for the location of TE1 and E1 connectors. -- Start engine cold, and rev to 2500 rpm for two mins. You need the engine warm enough to completely close the IACV, but not hot enough to kick on the cooling fan. -- When the engine it warmed, go to the diag port and jump TE1 and E1. The idle should change and a clicking sound should be distinctly audible. This is normal. -- Take a blade screwdriver and twirl the idle screw atop the intake manifold, above the TB under the rubber plug, until the tach shows 750 rpm. -- Remove the paper clip when done, close the diag port cover and remove the tach. Go for a test drive. If it's still too high, consult a service manual.
