Most electricians around here call them "travelers". There may be other names in other parts of the country.
Presuming the switch worked at one point and just stopped working it is likely that the switch has failed in a normally closed position. The only other possibility is that somehow you have a wire problem whereby the hot side of supply is connected to the load side of the switch. This could be caused by an exposed wire in the switch receptacle. Suggest you turn off power at breaker and replace switch as a start. When you have the switch removed from the receptacle, with wires still connected see if switch works. If it does it could still be bad, but examine the wires around switch and see if you have any exposed wire that could be touching the load side of the switch (Side connected to the light).
The point where wires interconnect with other wires is known as a "junction". In your panel the circuit breakers are connected to the buss, each circuit breaker feeds a different circuit. Different circuits are not connected together.
If you are adding the pull chain to an existing fixture then the pull chain switch should have two wires. Wire nut either one to the hot wire coming in and the other to the black wire of the fixture.
If you have good access to the wiring this is relatively easy to do. Each of the 10 lights is connected to another in parallel in a "daisy chain" fashion. Light 1 is connected to the switch, light 2 is connected to light 1, light 3 is connected to light 2 and so forth. Let's say it is light 5 that you wish to switch separately. You can first install the new switch by either adding a new box or modifying old switch box. There are two gang switches that will fit the form factor of a single switch. TURN OFF THE POWER TO SWITCH BOX. Using the same supply input at original switch, add a new black wire to the wire nut for input to original switch and connect this to the input of new switch. Then run a new wire to light 5 and connect black wire to the output of new switch. Connect all the white wires together in switch box and separately connect all bare wires together in switch box. Now at light 5 undo the black and white wire coming from the fixture, and reconnect the wire nuts so that there is a direct connection between light 4 and light 6. Do the same for the ground if present (bare wire). You now have the fixture wires hanging free. Now connect the black wire from new switch to the fixture black wire and white to white and you are done.
A single pole, single throw light switch simply interrupts the electrical current. It makes absolutely no difference which way you connect the wires, it will still interrupt a circuit when connected in series.
A typical pressure switch has 4 contacts. You are switching 220 volts. When the switch is open the supply side and pump side are not connected to each other. So you just need to connect the two wires from supply to one side of the switch and the pump to the other. It doesn't matter which wire on a given side is connected to which terminal on that side.
When a switch is open (wires not connected) it is considered off. When a switch is closed it is considered on. If you move a switch and the wires are not connected the the circuit is open and current cannot run throughout the circuit to power the device.
There should be two wires coming from the dimmer switch unless it is a 3-way dimmer. The wires should be labled line and load on a normal 2-way switch. The line load is connected to the incoming power wire. the load wire is then connected to the wire that goes to the fixture. If you area replacing an old two way switch, then it will hook up exactly the same as the original switch, except for the fact that you will have to connect the pigtail wires of the switch to the other wires that used to be under screw terminals. I hope this answered your question. Thanks, Ben M. There should be two wires coming from the dimmer switch unless it is a 3-way dimmer. The wires should be labled line and load on a normal 2-way switch. The line load is connected to the incoming power wire. the load wire is then connected to the wire that goes to the fixture. If you area replacing an old two way switch, then it will hook up exactly the same as the original switch, except for the fact that you will have to connect the pigtail wires of the switch to the other wires that used to be under screw terminals. I hope this answered your question. Thanks, Ben M.
You will actually need 2 3-way switches to control something from two locations. The first switch will receive the power, while the other will go directly to the load being controlled. The switch getting power will have the hot lead connected to the common terminal. The other switch will have its common terminal connected to the hot lead going to the load. Two "travellers" will be connected between the other terminals on the switches. They will be connected switch-to-switch. And don't forget that your neutral coming from the power feed will be connected to the load. Also don't forget to connect ground wires.
I'll take that as "How are telephone wires connected?" but it's still unclear what you want to know. Telephone wires are connected just as any other wires are connected. By screw connections, by soldering, by crimping.
It depends entirely on what the wires are connected to - this question is unanswerable.
on top of gearbox with 2 wires connected to it.
wires are connected opposite to what they should be in the switch
I would use relays, connected to the original wires, also connected to your wireless setup
if you look on the transmission, you should see two wires connected to the neutral switch.
The right wires will have to be connected. You will need a wiring diagram to figure out the order.
The size of conduit is based on the size of the wires in it. The size of the wires depends on the load connected in the house. Without these other two values an answer can not be given.