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Tartan plaid is simply a pattern of thread repeated in both the breadth and width of the finished fabric, the woof and the warp. A true plaid, then, has the same pattern when you rotate it 90 degrees. But tartan plaid is also something more, one of the few surviving cultural reminders of the independent Scottish nation. In fact, the tartan is so fundamental to the Scottish identity that English authorities banned wearing plaid after the Scottish rebellion of 1746. Many Americans can trace their ancestry to Scots who were sentenced to seven years labor in the colonies for wearing their tartan. As early as the Roman conquest of Britain in Julius Ceaser's day, the Celts of Scotland and Ireland wore primitive tartans. At the time, tartan referred to a style of weaving fabric that makes a fine, diagonal texture. Look at your jeans or a twill shirt; you'll see the fine diagonal pattern. This strong weave is made by sewing the thread over two, under two instead of the simpler over one, under one.

During the Middle Ages, Scottish weavers began using simple, natural dyes to create plaid designs in their tartans. There was little standardization of patterns, with weavers creating a new design for every bolt of fabric. But regional styles began to develop, based on local tastes and the availability of natural pigments. Eventually, clans began to wear a more standardized set of plaids, but there was still much variation among tartans. In fact, Highland warriors identified their clan affiliation mainly by devices on their hats, not the pattern of their kilts.

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Q: What is the origin of the plaid?
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