#6 should be fine...Canadian Code anyway....
You need #4 copper ground wire attached to one 8' copper ground rod directly under the meter base, and attached to another 8' ground rod 6' to the side.
For a 200 amp circuit an electrician should do the work. They will know the questions to ask, like what is the voltage and what is the distance . .
The electrical code states that if the grounding electrode is to be a metallic water pipe it is to be attached to the street side of the water meter or if not possible as near as practicable to the point of entrance of the water service in the building. You will need to purchase a pipe grounding clamp to make the connection. To stop stray circulating currents from happening all metallic systems should be bonded to each other and to ground.DON'T!You shouldn't connect electrical service ground wires to pipes; it causes electrolysis of the pipe and slowly dissolves some of the metal.Ground wires should be connected to a ground rod that is driven into... the ground.
#8 is the size of wire to use for grounding a 100 Amp panel. Green is color used for grounding #8 is code.
solar panels get energy from the sun and ground pumps get energy from turning water.
In North American residential homes, there are 3 wires coming from the utility company, two "hots" and neutral. The two "hot" conductors get connected to the main breaker. The neutral gets connected to the neutral bus bars located along the sides of the breaker box. There is a set screw that is placed in the neutral bar that screws into the distribution panel enclosure thereby bringing the potential of the neutral bars down to zero. The wire from your ground rod is also connected to the neutral bus bar, and thereby it is connected to the neutral from the power company. This is also often bonded to the copper cold water plumbing in the house if the home is not plumbed in PVC water pipe. White circuit wires are then connected to the neutral bus bars. Also in the distribution panel are ground bus bars. The ground wires from circuit cables are connected to these grounding bars. Do not under any circumstance terminate the white and bare ground wires together. Ground wires to the ground bar and white wires to the neutral bar.
A cold water pipe is usually a ground. Nowadays with plastic pipe you can't be sure. If the pipe out of the foundation is copper chances are it is good. You can check it with a meter. You can also get an electrical ground rod and install it. It is just a 10' spike that you hammer into the ground and clamp a wire to. It will also give you a good ground. You may already have one at your home. Check by the service entrance for electricity and phone.
You need two forms of grounding according to the code. Grounding to the water main is typically the best ground in a building. If you don't have a water meter you can add an extra ground rod.
You need 2 ground rods of 8' in length. One under the meter base and another one 6' to either side of the meter base. Drive them into the ground with just enough sticking up to connect the ground wire.
The electrical code states that if the grounding electrode is to be a metallic water pipe it is to be attached to the street side of the water meter or if not possible as near as practicable to the point of entrance of the water service in the building. You will need to purchase a pipe grounding clamp to make the connection. To stop stray circulating currents from happening all metallic systems should be bonded to each other and to ground.DON'T!You shouldn't connect electrical service ground wires to pipes; it causes electrolysis of the pipe and slowly dissolves some of the metal.Ground wires should be connected to a ground rod that is driven into... the ground.
It must be grounded outside with two 8' copper ground rids driven fully into the ground. One under the meter and one 6' to either side connected together with the proper size copper ground wire. The above answer leaves out the requirement for a grounding connection to a metal water pipe. The NEC actually makes the ground rods supplemental to the water pipe. We don't usually consider the water pipe as the primary grounding electrode but that is how it is treated in the code. Depending on the size of your service, the grounding electrode conductor to the water pipe may actually be a different size than what connects to the ground rods, which are allowed to be connected with 6 AWG copper regardless of the size of service.
On an overhead service, during periods of rain, water will run along the overhead service wires. Water would run in to the service riser and in to the top of the meter, the drip loop allows the water to drip off of the conductors instead of running in to the meter.
In most cases, water is entering through the the rubber compression gasket at the top of the meter where the service wire enters the meter. Have power company turn off power and have electrician replace compression gasket and add Ge silicone around top of compression nut. Also add silicone where the service wire exits the meter at the bottom of meter around wires to stop water entering the sheathing of the service wire. Inspect door gasket and dome lock to stop wind driven rain and snow.
#8 is the size of wire to use for grounding a 100 Amp panel. Green is color used for grounding #8 is code.
solar panels get energy from the sun and ground pumps get energy from turning water.
Assuming you are referring to a 240 volt residential hot water heater you will need to install 10/2 NM cable (Romex) with ground from the service panel to the water heater wired to a 30 amp circuit breaker in the service panel. If you cannot see the water heater from the service panel you will need to install a service disconnect at the water heater.
In North American residential homes, there are 3 wires coming from the utility company, two "hots" and neutral. The two "hot" conductors get connected to the main breaker. The neutral gets connected to the neutral bus bars located along the sides of the breaker box. There is a set screw that is placed in the neutral bar that screws into the distribution panel enclosure thereby bringing the potential of the neutral bars down to zero. The wire from your ground rod is also connected to the neutral bus bar, and thereby it is connected to the neutral from the power company. This is also often bonded to the copper cold water plumbing in the house if the home is not plumbed in PVC water pipe. White circuit wires are then connected to the neutral bus bars. Also in the distribution panel are ground bus bars. The ground wires from circuit cables are connected to these grounding bars. Do not under any circumstance terminate the white and bare ground wires together. Ground wires to the ground bar and white wires to the neutral bar.
Not usually, but check with local plumbing authority about codes.
you might depending on how big of a service meter you have,if not you can change the pressure demand valve or pressure regulator depending on whats in your home. actually, increasing the size of the meter (and perhaps the water service line from the main to the home) will provide more flow. The pressure won't change unless there's some sort of regulator as mentioned above. If the static pressure (with no water running on the service) is good and decreases markedly when you run water (that'd be dynamic pressure) you might see an improvement by upsizing the meter and service line. If the static pressure is low and there are no pressure regulators in the line you're sort of stuck with what the utility is providing, unless there's a problem on their end. Where we are the state only requires 20 psi at the meter - if your home is upslope or distant from the meter it may cause difficulties.