wire is often rated at 600 vac, 22 amps reqires # 10
Look on the devices nameplate. There it should have the wattage, volts, and amperage.
What is the Process of Wiring If the device draws 15 amps (I thought Euro plugs were 16 amps or 6 amps, but no matter), you should not attempt to run it on a 10 amp supply. If the device needs less than 10 amps you could change the plug. Do please check that the smaller plug is 10 amps, not 6 amps. If you are trying to run a European device in the USA, the VOLTAGE is different (230 in Europe, 110 in USA) so the device won't run well. Don't even think of using an American device in Europe - there will be a big, expensive bang! (I know, I have seen the result).
Watts = amps x volts. Something pulling 10 amps at 12 volts is 120 watts
If the light is operating at 110 volts, and P = I x E, then I = 300/110, or 2.5 amps.
A breaker or fuse in an electric panel is protecting the wire, outlets and switches that are part of the installed circuit. You could plug in an appliance that draws 6 amps and have a 15 A breaker protecting the circuit. The idea for protecting a specific device is to put in a fuse that blows before the current destroys the device. If your 6 Amp device would be destroyed by 6.1 amps then you want a 6 amp fuse. However, fuses aren't that precise so this would be hard to do. A rule of thumb is that the steady state current in a circuit is 80% of the over-current protection. In your case this would be 7.5 amps.
An electrical device may draw amps, but there is not a device that equates to amps. Amperes are the measure of current flow in a circuit.
Depends on power factor, but it should be about 8 Amps.
Look on the devices nameplate. There it should have the wattage, volts, and amperage.
What is the Process of Wiring If the device draws 15 amps (I thought Euro plugs were 16 amps or 6 amps, but no matter), you should not attempt to run it on a 10 amp supply. If the device needs less than 10 amps you could change the plug. Do please check that the smaller plug is 10 amps, not 6 amps. If you are trying to run a European device in the USA, the VOLTAGE is different (230 in Europe, 110 in USA) so the device won't run well. Don't even think of using an American device in Europe - there will be a big, expensive bang! (I know, I have seen the result).
46 amps
The UPS should be rated in Amps per Hour. Just divide that number by the current requirements of the device connected to the UPS. Say that the UPS is rated for 10 Ampere Hours and your device draws 2 amps. You could run the device for about 5 hours.
Watts = amps x volts. Something pulling 10 amps at 12 volts is 120 watts
How many Amps is the fridge pulling? Multiply the Amps by the 120V circuit you're plugging into and you'll get your Watts.
12 amps
90 kW on 480 volts single phase would be 187.5 amps. On 480 v 3-phase it would be 108 amps.
50 amps maximum and 40 Amps continuous. The voltage in this case doesn't enter into the equation. There are some issues to consider when DC is involved with arcing when plugging or unplugging device. You should only do this when power is off.
If the light is operating at 110 volts, and P = I x E, then I = 300/110, or 2.5 amps.