A tape measure.
You would have to measure the bolt circle diameter, stud diameter, center hub diameter and back spacing on the trailer then match the new rims to those specs.
at a public scales, weigh the vehicle without the trailer connected, connect the trailer and pull back on the scales leaving the trailer tires off the scale. The difference in the two weights is the tongue weight
Several different ways have been used. Some measure from the nose to the rear of the trailer/ without the truck. Others measure from the rear bumper of the truck to the rear of the trailer claiming the overhang on the truck bed doesn't count because the truck takes up that space. Don't relay on the trailer model number it's usually wrong. I measure from nose to back bumper.
dog
Yeah, so a persons cultural back ground simply affect the food.
I can't pull a trailer because I do not have a trailer hitch on the back of my car.
It would go inside the trailer, and you'd either land it and stop quickly, or else you'd crash it into one of the trailer walls.
Its on the back bumper if you don't have one you would have to purchase one and the connect it under the back bumper.
On a 5' X 8' Utility Trailer you would want a 60% / 40% axle weight distribution for optimum towing/tracking of trailer. A design of 96 total inches in length would produce a 54" length from the front of the trailer to axle center. Adding an additional 10 inches to the rear of the trailer would then produce a optimum 63" length from the front of the trailer. Extending this trailer by 10 inches would fall into a safe range as long as you take into consideration the weight distribution of the load.
On the back of the trailer .
on the back of the trailer.
If your on the the throttle while trying to get on the trailer, you will make a ditch where your prop was propelling. so if everyone does this, next time u back your trailer in, your tires might get stuck in that ditch, and that would suck