A typical switch doesn't have a Common screw in the strictest sense, it just has two screws which are each side of the switch. You probably have a a 3-way switch. If you are hooking up a 3-way switch as a normal switch, then connect the Black (Hot) wire to the common and the load to the side of the switch that makes UP the on direction and DOWN is off and doesn't get connected.
You can determine for sure if you have a 3-way switch because the word ON and OFF don't appear on the toggle.
For a very good explanation of how to do this, with a diagram, browse on over to the Related link shown below this answer.If you go to google.com and type 3-way switch wiring into the search box you'll get dozens of diagrams and instructions - all very similar.
In Australia we use 1.5mm2 TPS cable for lighting circuits. The colours for fixed wiring are red - active, black- neutral and green/yellow for earth, also white is used for switch wires. All luminaires and lighting points must have an earth at their location. The process for a simple lighting circuit for looping at the switch method (feed starts at the switch) - one switch and one light point is:The feed (active) goes to the common point on the rocker switch and the neutral goes to the loop terminal on the rocker switch. The earth is connected to a two screw connector separate from the switch. A switch wire is then connected from terminal 1 of the rocker switch to one of the main terminals (these are the terminals across which the lamp terminals are connected) on the batten holder ( this is the fitting which holds the lamp). The other main terminal on the batten holder is connected to the loop terminal on the rocker switch with the neutral. The earth conductor is connected from the two screw terminal at the switch position to the earth terminal in the batten holder.As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Yes you can. The proper wiring of a switch is to bring the hot wire to the top of the switch terminal and connect the load to the bottom of the switch. When the breaker is turned off it disconnects the voltage from the top of the switch and the switch is then safe to work on. By not turning the breaker off, the voltage is present at the top of the switch which could subject you to a nasty shock if you come into contact with it.
No, the common American light switch is only rated for a maximum of 125 volts.
The hot wire is usually connected to the common terminal of a NO, NC device. This type of contact arrangement is known as a "C "form arrangement.
In terms of hot,neutral,ground, the neutral is classed as the common. In regards to a switch which has a NO, NC, C. This is classed as a C form switch. It has a common terminal, a normally open terminal and a normally closed terminal. Depending on the position of the switch handle the circuit can be either open or closed.
You need two 3-way switches. To see a diagram use your favorite search engine and search for 3-way switch wiring. Each switch has a common connection point and two other terminals. Basically connect the "other" terminal on 1 switch to either "other" terminal on the second switch and then do it again for the remaining "other" terminal. Then connect the common on one switch to the fixture and the common on the remaining switch to supply voltage. Tie neutral and ground for fixture and supply to the white and bare wires respectively.
For a very good explanation of how to do this, with a diagram, browse on over to the Related link shown below this answer.If you go to google.com and type 3-way switch wiring into the search box you'll get dozens of diagrams and instructions - all very similar.
Pop out the switch panel and remove the two screws disconnect the wiring and reinstall the new switch
Remove the heater control switch decorative cover. Remove the retaining screws. Remove the wiring harness. Reverse the process to install the new switch.
I would wire them using a common relay and a ground switched circuit i.e. Terminal #30 Hot Terminal #87 Load Terminal #85 Hot Terminal #86 Switched to Ground
A two way switch is required for staircase wiring. A staircase switch will have two terminals. Connect the line wire with the center terminal. Connect the two ends of a wire with the top two terminals and two ends of a wire with the bottom two terminals. The line wire at the center terminal can now be connected with one terminal of the light bulb or light holder.
The dimmer switch is located near the floor on the left side of the steering column. The dimmer switch and ignition switch are secured by the same two screws. The dimmer switch will be the one on top. Loosen and remove the screws, disconnect the wiring harness from the dimmer switch and replace with the new switch, complete the assembly in reverse order.
Remove the decorative cover to the window switch panel. Remove the window switch retaining screws. Remove the wiring harness from the back of the window switch. Reverse the process to install the new window switch.
Remove the temperature control switch wiring harness. Remove the temperature control switch retaining screws. Reverse the process to install the new temperature control switch.
Disconnect the battery. Remove the plastic trim around the steering column. Remove the screws that hold the turn signal switch to the column. Disconnect the switch from the wiring and remove it.
"com" means common, very often the white or neutral conductor. On devices that have multiple wiring configurations it is the terminal used in all configurations.