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It appears to be three. Two on the front and one in the back!
The most important lube points are rubber mounts that serve as an interface between the suspension and the chasis (one behind each wheel). You need a needle to squirt the grease between the rubber mount and chassis. If you do not do this, your suspension will squeak. I had mine done last year and the squeak is back!! There are also zerk fittings at each tie rod behind the front wheels.
There are no grease fittings on this vehicle. Most new vehicles especially those from Japan, now have sealed components that are prelubed upon the components assembly. This is done for the simple reason that the automotive market place is demanding a product that requires less servicing, resulting in a less expensive opperating cost to the consumer. These sealed components offer a good service life as long as the seals, ie. usually rubber boots, remain in good condition and are not damaged. Cheers!
K&Y is a brand of lubrication that is typically utilized to reduce the friction of sexual intercourse and provide topical hydration (and in some cases stimulation) to the applied areas through application to the sexual organs and genitals. It is not always necessary as the act of foreplay typically stimulates the secretion of a naturally occurring lubrication in both men (pre-ejaculate) and women. In some cases K&Y is used to lubricate other bodily movements such as the friction between the thighs that occurs while walking. K&Y brand lubrication products can be purchased in most pharmacies, grocery stores and sexual accessory shops. They are typically located near the planned pregnancy products.
I gather you mean in the system to lube the chain and the answer is generally 30Wt.
Yep. You can run it without the bar and everything. It may leak bar oil though as most pump oil as the motor runs to lube the chain. It may have a tendency to rev higher though so don't squeeze the throttle too much.
You should lube your chain a couple times a month to keep it from getting rusty and warn out.
inox or chain lube from a bike shop
You should clean and lube your chain approximately every 300 miles (two gas tank fulls for me) or anytime you have an excessive amount of dirt in your chain (riding over dirt roads, etc.)
Some and /or most chains have sealed bearings, therefore, powerwash them and then spray on a good chain lube, lift the rear axel off the ground and spin the rear tires while you spray the chain with lube,don't be stingy with the lube. Or put the chain in a parts washer for a day or two and hand dry, then give it a really good coating of chain WAX, apply it the same way as above.
Stay away from ez-lube, quick-lube, or any other such chain lube shop. Have your oil changed at a trusted dealership or an independent mechanics shop and expect to pay around $30.
when the gasket between the engine block and crankcase is old , there is a possibility some lube oil to leak and reduce the level. Temperature in the engine cause metal friction can evaporate some lube oil indeed.
Walmart is pretty reliable. Most dealers are reliable and most independents. Avoid chain lube shops such as Jiffy Lube.
How to lube your chain: Before starting off it is important that the chain is clean of old chain lube and dirt. More often than not, the chain lube mixes with grit and dirt to form a grinding paste which acts like sand paper on your chain and sprocket creating increased wear. Beware to not use a cleaning agent that will damage the "O" rings in most motorcycle chain. So, once the chain is clean; Get the back wheel off the ground. Spin the back wheel while spraying the lube onto the top of the bottom run of the chain. This will allow the overspray to land on the surface below the chain, not all over the swingarm and other parts of the motorcycle (you don't get overspray if you use Go Chain Wax). Lubing on the inside of the bottom run of the chain also pushes the lube outwards as the chain goes around the sprocket. Don't start the engine, engage a gear and let it run with the clutch out to spin the wheel. This is not only dangerous to your fingers, but it also flings the wet lube all over the bike and floor. Also, don't try to push the bike along while trying to spray lube onto the chain - you will only end up spraying it everywhere but the chain. What you need to know about chain lubes There are two groups of lubes on the market: wet, which are oil based; and dry which are wax, graphite, Teflon, etc based. Wet lubes are so called because they stay wet on the chain, and dry are so called because their carrier liquids evaporate to leave a dry lubricant on the chain. It is a misconception that wet lubes are for wet conditions, and dry lubes for dry conditions - a good dry lube will, taking component wear and cleaning into consideration, 'out lube' a wet lube in all conditions. While a wet lube will perhaps obtain more distance its major disadvantages are that it attracts dirt like honey to a blanket, forms a grinding paste and is a pain in the neck to clean. In every instance, chains lubed with wet lubes require regular degreasing for optimal performance. Almost every dry lube on the market is formulated with the lubricant component dissolved in a carrier liquid, which is almost always some form of solvent mixture comprising benzene, propane, heptane, alcohol, acetone, etc. The net effect of this is that such solutions are saturated with too low a content of the lubricant; therefore, once it is applied to the chain, the end result is that the chain is left with too little lube. Furthermore, the carrier liquid usually always evaporates too quickly before the lubricant can be carried into the openings in the chain between the plates, and pins and rollers. GO Chain Wax has a unique formulation circumventing these issues.
Nope, the cube will remain sticky, if not stickier
The primary oil does three things. Lube the clutch. Lube the primary chain . And cool the stator. If Harley thought Dextron would do this, they would have recommended the use of it. Keep your Harley a Harley.