Its means there is no continuity between point Ato point B. Ex. A light switch : When the switch is off it opens the circuit and electricity does not get to the light, when the switch is on the circuit is closed and the light will turn on.
Put a test light or a an ohm meter between the two leads. Push in or out depending on what kind of brake switch you have. If the ohm meter shows continuity or the test light lights up the switch is all right.
The light wouldn't go on unless just the neutral was cut and there was a separate ground.
use a continuity tester on the switch itself just hold contacts on tester to contacts on switch and if it reads with a beep or a light your switch is good pending the tester is accurate
Yes, to the green ground screw usually.
brake light switch bad check for continuity at the fuse then the switch, but yeah bad switch. Kongkit Raggan-Supatanampon
well, it's not a requirement, but traditionally a single light on a single switch has hot, neutral and ground brought directly to the light fixture from the panel. this circuit is called the home run. the hot is then run to the switch and back to the light as switched hot, which is used to feed the light. in order to add a second switched light fixture on a separate switch, you could pick up hot, neutral and ground at the first light fixture and carry it in another circuit to the second light fixture (traditionally) OR to the second light switch directly, whichever is easier. if you carried the hot/neutral/ground to the second light fixture, you would then circuit hot and switched hot to/from the second switch. if you carried hot/neutral/ground directly to the second switch, you would have to switch the hot and carry switched hot/neutral/ground to the second light. the same is true if the first switch has the home run, only you would add a circuit from the first switch to the second light fixture (or switch) instead of from the first light fixture.
disconnect the supply cable from cu and join the phase and neutral together then go to ur light switch and provided that he circuit is complete with ur bulbs in do a continuity test on the switch cable live in and switch live out these should beep out if the circuit is comple meaning there will be continuity at the switchh cables
I cannot provide a diagram, but it is simple. Power goes to the light, and the ground wire is use as an interupter on the door switch. The switch breaks the ground connection when the door is shut. So you should have power at the dome light if you just ground the circuit.
In a properly wired switch, you should find a bare ground wire of copper. Using a DVM or voltmeter, measure the voltage between the ground wire and both wires attached to the switch. One should be hot or at 120 volts. The other wire will lead to the device the switch turns on or off. If there is no ground wire, you can run a temporary wire from a earth or pipe ground to get a measurement.
could be a bad ground or a short to ground possibly bad switch or the light bulb
Use a three conductor traveler between switch "A" and switch "B". the switch wiring will be the same for a three way system with one, two, three, ten lights. If you have one light existing you will simply run a pair of wires (plus ground depending upon the age of the home) from the first light to the second light, third light, etc.