Both the earth wire and the neutral originate from the star point of the transformer. The neutral is used to complete the circuit with one phase, while the earth wire is used to conduct any current from the exposed metal body of the equipment to earth and to the star point of the transformer. This is done to protect people and animals in the event of accidental contact with electricity.
Electricity will always follow the route of least resistance. Copper/aluminium has a much lower resistance than the human body. In the event of the live wire making contact with the earthed metal body of the equipment, the earth wire will conduct the electricity to the earth mass. Without an earth wire connected to complete the route of least resistance to earth, the human body will conduct the full load current to earth if you should touch the live metal of faulty equipment. This could result in electrocution
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Equipment ground-ING conductors (commonly called "ground wire" or "the ground" and is usually green or bare) and groundED conductors (commonly called the "neutral" and is usually white or gray) are required to be bonded together at the main service panel. It is common practice to put both ground and neutral conductors on the same buss bar in the main service panel which effectively bonds them together. Then, if the incoming neutral and outgoing grounding electrode conductor (that's the conductor that is connected to building ground, or ground rods, and/or water pipe ground) are connected to the same buss then everything is bonded together and grounded as required.
Ground wires and neutrals should not share a buss bar and should be isolated from each other in any sub-panel.
Ground and neutral should only be connected at the main electric panel to prevent parallel neutral currents. If it is a new installation, you must provide four wires (two hots, 1 neutral, & 1 ground) and connect to the four separate (appropriate) places on the dryer. If it is an existing installation and it only has three wires (two hots and a neutral) connect the neutral to both the neutral and ground connection of the dryer (the National Electrical Code allows this exception for older homes). Call a qualified electrician to do any electrical work.
No. You can split the hot feeds and you can split the neutral feed, but both outlets of a standard duplex receptacle share the ground.
I would think not. However, if live were to come into contact with either the ground, or the neutral or both, this would cause a breaker to trip.
Ground wire to neutral wire.
Your old wiring has 2 "hot" wires and a ground. Your new appliance needs 2 "hot" wires, a Neutral, and a ground. Please consult an electrician.
Yes 1/0 wire can be used for both ungrounded( hot wires) and the grounded conductor (neutral).
The "hot" wire and the neutral wire both carry current (the same amount, in fact) when a load is connected to complete the circuit. The ground wire never carries current except when a fault-to-ground situation occurs. Yes, neutral and ground wires should both be at ground potential, but NO they should not be connected at the outlet.
Ground and neutral should only be connected at the main electric panel to prevent parallel neutral currents. If it is a new installation, you must provide four wires (two hots, 1 neutral, & 1 ground) and connect to the four separate (appropriate) places on the dryer. If it is an existing installation and it only has three wires (two hots and a neutral) connect the neutral to both the neutral and ground connection of the dryer (the National Electrical Code allows this exception for older homes). Call a qualified electrician to do any electrical work.
No. You can split the hot feeds and you can split the neutral feed, but both outlets of a standard duplex receptacle share the ground.
I would think not. However, if live were to come into contact with either the ground, or the neutral or both, this would cause a breaker to trip.
If both wires are black then the one with the writing is the neutral wire. If the two wires are black and white then the white one is the neutral.
Ground wire to neutral wire.
Your old wiring has 2 "hot" wires and a ground. Your new appliance needs 2 "hot" wires, a Neutral, and a ground. Please consult an electrician.
If the electrical box is grounded, check with a tester, the "hot" wire will have a voltage to the the grounded box the neutral wire will not. If the box is not grounded, with the breaker supplying the voltage turned off, use a tester on the resistance scale to check for continuity between the wires and a cold water pipe or some other grounded medium. The neutral will have continuity between the wire and a ground the "hot" wire will not.
Chassis is ground (neutral) in a car. The two hot wires are for the radio and the light. Connect the smaller wire to the dash light circuit and the larger wire to the accessory circuit.
You'll have to explain your problem better.If HOT black and Neutral White in your house wiring are both hot then Neutral is NOT bounded to ground in main panel and neutral could be floating. There should be no voltage between Neutral and Ground (Bare wire in panel). By code if there are multiple panels Ground is only bonded to Neutral in th emain entry panel. I have seen cases where this bonding was not done. At your main panel check voltage between neutral and ground. It should be zero.
You will have to check to make sure. Normally, with 4 wires, the black and red are both power for 220. White for neutral and bare for ground. If you are only using one leg of it, you would use the black, white, bare ones and cap the red one. Someone may have used the 4 strand because they had it or 220 was planned but not done or both the red and black are hot. You should be able to tell in the panel. Do the red and black both connect to separate breakers or to one or is the red not connected?