WD40 IS A LUBRICANT - it will NOT break up rust.
Spray some PB Blaster on the rusted bolts. Remove bolts and take bumper off. Install new bumper and new bolts. Used anti-seize on the bolts.
Chilton manual says to remove the splash guard from the fender well. Then remove the bolts from the catalytic converter to exhaust bolts. Unbolt the manifold bolts starting from the two center bolts, two rear bolts, then the two front bolts. remove the manifold. remove old gasket. replace. If you believe that then it is a relatively simple job. Good Luck!
Bad news. I have found it impossible to remove the bolt caps without breaking them. They are mortared on. They do make plastic bolt caps in a lot of different colors.
Remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and then remove the head. Scrap off the old gasket and install a new one. Reinstall the head and Torque the head bolts in the proper sequence. Reinstall the intake and exhaust manifold torque the bolts to the proper torque. This is a major repair and not for a novice to try.
Remove the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and then remove the head. Scrap off the old gasket and install a new one. Reinstall the head and Torque the head bolts in the proper sequence. Reinstall the intake and exhaust manifold torque the bolts to the proper torque. This is a major repair and not for a novice to try.
If it is a V6 you need to remove the passenger side tire, 3 pieces of wheel well cover, drive shaft, and exhaust at the "Y" after the manifold. There are 3 bolts (13MM, as I recall) the hardest is the top bolt as 2 bolts bolt from the engine towards the wheel. The 3rd bolt attaches the alternator to a bracket. In short took us 8 hrs to remove the old one and 40 mins to install the new one and a few more hours to re-install the exhaust system, drive shaft, wheel well pieces, and the tire. What a crappy design flaw by FORD as i have changed alternators in a parking lot in less than an hour without air or a torch to heat the rusted bolts to get the exhaust loose.
starter located right side under exhaust manifold . remove BATTERY CABLE!!!remove 3 10mm bolts from heat shield one is on rear of shield behind manifold..remove starter bolts one by one move wires from new to old starter .reposition starter install two bolts holding starter on . replace all e heat shield bolts and ground wire.
lots and lots of wd40
rotor, take on wire of old at a time and put on new one. Then take off two bolts and then put new one in place of it. Make sure you mark old one as to how it was on, to make sure new on is the same way. Brake rotor, take tire off. There should be two bolts on the back of brake. Remove. Then whole unit should come off. The remove rotor. May be some bolts, or just ready for removal. Probable going to be rusted in place if there are no bolts to remove. Use a plastic hammer, or even a peice of wood and hammer.Put on new one, and put all back together.
first of all you will need to drain the old oil out then you will need to remove the exhaust front pipe then you will need to undo the bolts which go into the oil sump be carefull not to snap the bolts as will need to be replaced new new gasket give the sump a good clean out put back on new gaskets for your exhaust refill with oil check for leaks
I just replaced mine, rotors had rusted away. Remove caliber, mine were rusted to the wheel hub, had to pry off. cleaned old rust off with steel wool, new rotors slid on with no problem
Changing the oil pan gasket on a 1995 or similar year Camry is realtively simple, but does require removal of the exhaust pipe. You will need a new oil pan gasket and a new exhaust pipe flange gasket. Put the car on ramps or jacks to access the undercarriage. Remove the exhaust pipe by removing the 3 nuts holding the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. These nuts often rust and prior application of penetrating oil may be required to remove them without damage. Once the pipe is unbolted, work the exhaust system loose from the hanging brackets. In most cases the entire system does not have to be removed since there is enough room to remove the pan with only the front hangers removed. Drain the oil from the engine Remove the 10 mm bolts holding the pan to the block. Remove the old gasket material and scrape any remaining gasket from the block and pan. Install the new gasket. Forma-Gasket or a similar product may be used in small quantities to "glue" the new gasket in place and prevent shifting while the pan is reattached to the block. Reinsall the 10 mm bolts in a cross pattern to ensure the gasket is compressed evenly. Do not overtighten the bolts. Replace the pipe to flange gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust manifold with a new part. Reattach the exhuast pipe to the hangers. Install the 3 bolts connecting the pipe flange to the exhaust manifold. Fill the engine with oil. Pray there are no leaks!