Needs to be convenient to work on. Top of panel should not be higher than eye level unless it is a very large panel. Try to keep the top of the panel at about 65 to 70 inches.
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In the United States, the NEC requires that an overcurrent device be installed not higher than 6 feet 7 inches. It's important to remember that when you are looking into a panel, you might not have good lighting and you want to be able to see what you're working with. Placing the panel so that working with branch circuits is comfortable without violating the code is preferable IMO.
I'm not writing to disagree with Dave. You will find many panels mounted 65 to 70 inches high. Sometimes, especially in a home, you don't have the room to bring the service conductors into the home and into the panel and mount it higher than that. But it is nice to walk up to a panel and with good light or a flashlight, be able to give the whole thing a good look. ========== Sparkfighter
Usually it is 5ft 6in eye level but no higher then 6ft
The NEC requires that breakers never be mounted higher than 6 feet 7 inches. Note that this is the highest placement for the BREAKER.
It is my opinion that panels are often mounted too low. Most of the work in a panel happens below the main breaker so it is my opinion that panels should be mounted so most people can look straight into them.
A #3 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 115 amps. Even though the panel is rated at a higher amperage it is the main breaker that governs the wire size.
First you need to determine if addition of the new breakers will exceed the 200A service under normal operating conditions. If so you will need to go to power company and increase service and put in a larger main panel. If you have the capacity for the extra current you can add a sub-panel and add the breakers there as well as the breakers you will remove from main panel to accommodate the sub-panel breaker. Another way depends on what breakers are in current panel. There are some breakers that can be duplexed in the same space as a single breaker.
Yes you do. The detached garage will either be fed with a single circuit or a sub panel. The wire feeding the garage will need to be protected and that is the purpose of the breaker (disconnect). The breaker size will be determined by the size of the wire that is used on this circuit.
Not exactly sure what your question is and you need to make sure you are in compliance with electrical code for your jurisdiction. But, generally speaking you install a large breaker (let's say 100A 2 pole breaker to power the sub panel) just as you would install any other breaker in the presently used (hot) panel, and the proper sized cable then goes from old to new and terminates on the main lugs of the new panel. Ground and neutral are usually isolated from each other in the sub panel but depends on other factors as to location of the sub panel, etc.
You can swap a single breaker for two mini breakers or you can add a sub-panel. If you only need a couple of extra circuits then just add mini-breakers.
The sub-panel need to be fed from the main panel, by way of a circuit breaker connected to one of the breaker locations. Or if your sub-panel has a main breaker installed you can feed from the main panel with a sub-feed lug kit. This looks like a breaker, but is only a point where you can branch off the sub panel.
No, a Meter Main Combo typically includes the main breaker as part of its design, so you would not need an additional main breaker in the panel. The main breaker in the Meter Main Combo serves as the disconnect for the panel.
A #3 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 90 degrees C is rated at 115 amps. Even though the panel is rated at a higher amperage it is the main breaker that governs the wire size.
First you need to determine if addition of the new breakers will exceed the 200A service under normal operating conditions. If so you will need to go to power company and increase service and put in a larger main panel. If you have the capacity for the extra current you can add a sub-panel and add the breakers there as well as the breakers you will remove from main panel to accommodate the sub-panel breaker. Another way depends on what breakers are in current panel. There are some breakers that can be duplexed in the same space as a single breaker.
Yes you do. The detached garage will either be fed with a single circuit or a sub panel. The wire feeding the garage will need to be protected and that is the purpose of the breaker (disconnect). The breaker size will be determined by the size of the wire that is used on this circuit.
Yes, you can add a subpanel or second main breaker box to control breakers in outbuildings on a farm. This subpanel will be supplied power from the main panel in your primary building using appropriate wiring methods and breaker sizes. Make sure to consult with a licensed electrician to ensure proper installation and compliance with local electrical codes.
Not exactly sure what your question is and you need to make sure you are in compliance with electrical code for your jurisdiction. But, generally speaking you install a large breaker (let's say 100A 2 pole breaker to power the sub panel) just as you would install any other breaker in the presently used (hot) panel, and the proper sized cable then goes from old to new and terminates on the main lugs of the new panel. Ground and neutral are usually isolated from each other in the sub panel but depends on other factors as to location of the sub panel, etc.
If the main breaker has ground fault detection, and the fault is a ground fault, then only the main may trip. Also if the fault is a direct short, the fault current may be several thousand amps, much greater than the trip point of both breakers. Breakers have an I^2T curve (current squared-time), which is an indication of how fast the breaker will trip at a given overload. When both breakers are overloaded, the breaker with the faster I^2T rating at that current level will trip first. This would be an indication that the breakers are improperly specified or adjusted.
If your main breaker is open and the utility meter is still measuring current, you probably have another circuit tapped ahead of the main. Usually there will be some sort of junction box with a breaker or fuse in it that is located close to the main panel and probably connected to the main panel with conduit. If you do not see a junction box in close proximity to the main panel then carefully remove the front cover of the main panel and look for a couple smaller wires that are tightened into the cable side of the main breaker. Either that, or check for a few wires that run out of the panel through the same conduit that runs to the meter. Those would be the two most likely terminations used by somebody (previous owner) trying to add a circuit to a full panel. If you can locate that tap, you should be able to follow the wire to determine what the load is. Although I've never heard of a meter measuring current when there is no load on it, you will need to call the utility company if you cannot find a circuit tapped ahead of the main breaker. They own the meter.
Look to see if the 30 amp panel is fed with a two wire or a three wire. If it is a two wire then you are out of luck. If the panel is fed with a three wire then the panel should have the neutral terminated in the panel. It is this neutral that you need for 120 volt connections. You didn't state how many panel slots there are in the panel. If you are able install a 15 amp breaker into the panel and connect the wires going to the load. The black wire will go to the breaker and the white wire will go to the neutral bar in the panel.
Yes, you need to use a mini breaker panel with a 15A circuit breaker to safely connect a 15A receptacle to a 30A line. The breaker panel will protect the receptacle and wiring from the higher current capacity of the 30A line, preventing potential overheating or damage. It's important to match the amperage of the circuit breaker with the rating of the receptacle to ensure safe electrical operation.
You need to calculate how much the total current is likely to be at any moment. It's probable that the total load will be less than the sum of the individual breakers, 200 amps, but how much less depends on local conditions.