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Your question sounds simple but it isn't. There are two ways of wiring a light to a switch. One is to bring the hot and neutral wire to the switch box and from there run wires from the switch to the light. If this is the case you can install a GFCI on the circuit. The other way is to bring the hot and neutral wire to the light and from there run two wires to the switch and switch the light that way. In this case you cannot install a GFCI to in the switch box. <<>> The way you want the circuit to work has to be laid out as follows. Method one, the circuit that now controls the bathroom devices can be changed to a GFCI breaker. This is probably the quickest and cheapest, unless the job is new construction. Method two, if new construction use this method, as tearing walls open to get to the wiring will become costly. Where a supply circuit comes from the service distribution panel the first device on that circuit has to be a GFCI receptacle. This device has secondary terminals on it, that if connected every device downstream from it will also be protected. So if you supply the two way light switch that controls the vent fan and a bathroom light from the secondary terminals from the GFCI receptacle they will be protected.
You need a GFCI outlet at any location that is within 6' of a water source. You also need a GFCI outlet in a room with a concrete floor, any garage, and any location outside the home or under the home in the crawl space. A GFCI outlet protects you from electrical shock near water or moisture. You can protect more than one outlet with 1 GFCI outlet. Connect the incoming power to the LINE side of the GFCI outlet and all the other outlets getting power from that outlet to the LOAD side of the GFCI outlet. That way they will all be protected by 1 GFCI. A GFCI breaker is used to protect an entire circuit and not just individual receptacles. It is often cheaper to use GFCI receptacles than a breaker, especially if "piggy-backed" such as described above. It is also more convenient to reset a GFCI receptacle than to reset a breaker. But your question is "why." From this I suspect you may be misunderstanding the difference between a breaker and GFCI protection. To keep things simple let me say that a GFCI does not work on the same principles as a standard breaker. It provides a much safer protection than a standard breaker. Even with a ground you need GFCI protection as listed above.
Yes you can but the electrical code does not require it. To use one where it is not requested to do so is just adding to the over all expense of the project.
There's a few small parts inside a GFCI and also a small coil of cable. Electricity in an AC circuit can be considered to vibrate in the cables, this produces unnoticeable harmonics (vibrations/noise). However when a coil (cablewrapped around and around) has AC Current flowing through it these harmonics are increased and become noticeable (canbe heard).The noise coming out of your device is not a safety issue, it is not indicative of a fault with your electricity, however it is annoying.I shall now give a couple of reasons why it may be unavoidable.Resonance depends on many things... Materials the board and GFCI are mounted to being one. the overall measurements and position of the GFCI in relation to the materials around it being another. It might be that the board itself is spreading the sound wave.It may even be the tiniest spec of dust inside the GFCI itself, or that the GFCI'smounting bracket is a tiny bit loose.You may find you can slide The GFCI to one side or another, space permitting, inside your board (youmay have to remove a black plate from the front panel), and by just moving it to one side it may stop the noise all together.A rather unorthodox method of stopping this noise (dueto dust and other internal causes), is to give the GFCI a sharp rap on the front with a solid Item not a heavy item example:Don't use a hammer, also try not to hit the switches). something like a spoon or the handle of a screw driver should do the trick.(Source: Qualified electrician)Otherwise, your looking at maybe calling out an electrician to see if he can find where the sound is specifically coming from, and to put a piece of dampening material into your board.If in doubt, get an electrician out.
There is no such thing as a 'neutral phase'. 'Live' or 'hot' conductors are called 'lines', whereas the neutralconductor is at approximately earth (ground) potential.So, a toaster would be connected between a line and a neutral conductor.