The requirements for receptacles and any other necessary additions will usually be found on the blueprints. If they are not, its best to consult with the contractor or builder to make sure they are included.
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A GFCI receptacle can extend its protection to regular receptacles connected to the output side of the GFCI. Each actual GFCI receptacle should be directly connected to a breaker in electric panel.
If the receptacle has a ground terminal (green screw) and has three prongs, you must connect a ground wire if it is a new installation. There is one exception to this: if the three prong receptacle is fed from the LOAD side of a GFCI receptacle, it is not required to have a grounding conductor. This is because the receptacle is considered to be protected by the GFCI's function. In addition the GFCI itself is not required to have a ground connected. In these cases the receptacle needs to be labeled "no equipment ground" on the wallplate. If this is existing, you are usually not required to correct things that were not originally done to code. However a three prong receptacle should not be used as such if it does not have a grounding conductor connected. This would lead to a false sense of grounding and safety.
Absolutely. You need the range ground to be fully connected back to the panel ground buss bar.
No, the neutral conductor will not be in that box. The white wire in the end of run will be the return "hot" leg back to the light fixture. When wired this white conductor should have had a black tape marker put on it to signify that it was not a neutral conductor. That same conductor should also have had a black marker placed on the end in the fixture's junction box.
The wording of your question is a bit difficult to understand. I'm not sure what you mean by a "switch recepticle outlet." If you mean a switch/receptacle combination device, and you want the switch to operate the receptacle, first you must remove the brass bar that connects the two brass screw terminals. This can be easily done with any set of pliers small enough to get hold of the bar. By moving it back and forth a few times it will simply come off. Next connect your green or bare wire to the ground screw of the device. Then connect your neutral coming into the box to the nickle (or silver) screw terminal next to the receptacle. Then connect a black wire (or any color wire other than white, gray, green, or orange) from the switch leg terminal of the switch (most likely a black screw) to the brass terminal of the receptacle. Make this wire long enough to work with. There is no reason to make it so short you can't work with it if trouble shooting is ever necessary. And finally connect your hot wire coming into the box to the brass terminal on the switch. If all this makes absolutely no sense to you, find a competent electrician to do it for you. We do these kinds of things in our sleep. (Just kidding, of course.)