A GFCI receptacle can extend its protection to regular receptacles connected to the output side of the GFCI. Each actual GFCI receptacle should be directly connected to a breaker in electric panel.
If the receptacle has a ground terminal (green screw) and has three prongs, you must connect a ground wire if it is a new installation. There is one exception to this: if the three prong receptacle is fed from the LOAD side of a GFCI receptacle, it is not required to have a grounding conductor. This is because the receptacle is considered to be protected by the GFCI's function. In addition the GFCI itself is not required to have a ground connected. In these cases the receptacle needs to be labeled "no equipment ground" on the wallplate. If this is existing, you are usually not required to correct things that were not originally done to code. However a three prong receptacle should not be used as such if it does not have a grounding conductor connected. This would lead to a false sense of grounding and safety.
Absolutely. You need the range ground to be fully connected back to the panel ground buss bar.
No, the neutral conductor will not be in that box. The white wire in the end of run will be the return "hot" leg back to the light fixture. When wired this white conductor should have had a black tape marker put on it to signify that it was not a neutral conductor. That same conductor should also have had a black marker placed on the end in the fixture's junction box.
The wording of your question is a bit difficult to understand. I'm not sure what you mean by a "switch recepticle outlet." If you mean a switch/receptacle combination device, and you want the switch to operate the receptacle, first you must remove the brass bar that connects the two brass screw terminals. This can be easily done with any set of pliers small enough to get hold of the bar. By moving it back and forth a few times it will simply come off. Next connect your green or bare wire to the ground screw of the device. Then connect your neutral coming into the box to the nickle (or silver) screw terminal next to the receptacle. Then connect a black wire (or any color wire other than white, gray, green, or orange) from the switch leg terminal of the switch (most likely a black screw) to the brass terminal of the receptacle. Make this wire long enough to work with. There is no reason to make it so short you can't work with it if trouble shooting is ever necessary. And finally connect your hot wire coming into the box to the brass terminal on the switch. If all this makes absolutely no sense to you, find a competent electrician to do it for you. We do these kinds of things in our sleep. (Just kidding, of course.)
You must cook a few dishes in your kitchen. Then wait 30 days for him to move back in.
Positioning the ground blade in the up position for a three-holed duplex receptacle is usually not required by the electrical code. However, some local codes or authorities having jurisdiction may have specific requirements regarding the orientation of the receptacle. It is best to check with your local building department to determine the specific requirements for your area.
Wires bring the voltage source to the junction box of the receptacle. At this point they are terminated under the screws of the receptacle. With the receptacle screwed to the junction box and the cover plate installed the outlet is ready to be used. The last thing to do is turn the breaker back on to energize the receptacle.
The neutral in a receptacle is the return conductor to complete the circuit back to the distribution panel. When a device is plugged into the receptacle this completes the circuit and allows the current to flow and the device to operate.
Shut the power off and remove the fridge receptacle. Look in the junction box to see if there is a loose connection in the back of the box. The rest of the kitchen could be wired from a three wire that has the fridge on one half of the circuit and the rest of the kitchen on the other half of the three wire circuit. The neutral would be the wire to check as it is common to both circuits.
Balkan peninsula
Some of the best ideas for a kitchen back splash are simple stainless steel back splash, five metal kitchen back splashes, and a basket weave back splash.
A back kitchen is another term for a scullery, a small room next to a kitchen where domestic chores other than the process of cooking are undertaken.
Check on the back of the receptacle. There should be a symbol Cu/Al. This means that the receptacle is approved for both copper and aluminium conductors to be used on it. If it does not have the Al symbol on the back it means that this devices is not approved for use with aluminium conductors.
Back to the Kitchen - 1912 was released on: USA: 23 February 1912
Back to the Kitchen - 1914 was released on: USA: 16 October 1914
Back to the Kitchen - 1917 was released on: USA: 9 August 1917