50-200 usd
I just got one at a gun show, 50% bluing mechanically perfact, bore clean with crisp rifiling for grips totally intact $100.
It all starts with condition; i.e. bluing and stock finish etc. If everything is "as it left the factory" (i.e. no modifications to sights, stock, or metal) and is "as new" condition, the value would be $500-$600 to a Remington collector. If not, its value goes down dramatically from there, based on its condition. 257 Roberts is not a rare caliber in the 788 but it has a good "cult" following today and that would add maybe $50. to its value, as a "shooter", over some of the other common calibers. "shooter" 788s sell for between $250-$450, again depending on condition, condition, condition.
A answer depends greatly upon what good condition means. To me, good condition means in its original configuration and un-touched with respect the the finish of the wood and metal. Normally, the bluing will be at lease partly deteriated, which is an indication of its original condition. If it has been re-blued, or the wood refinished, its value is much less. Also the bore and rifling need to be good, with no pitting or rust. With the said serial number, it would have been made in the early 1900's With this in mind, the rifle may bring $500 to $800 on one of the gun sale websites. JMG
The approximate temperature for bluing with nitre blue salts is around 600-700°F (315-370°C). It is important to closely monitor the temperature during the bluing process to achieve the desired finish and avoid overheating the metal.
The approximate operating temperature for bluing with nitre- blue salt is around 290-310°C (550-590°F). At this temperature, the parts are immersed in a bath of the nitre-blue salt for a specific period to achieve the desired bluing effect.
Mrs. Stewart's Bluing was created in 1883.
Bluing, as it relates to firearms or metal in general, is a permanent surface treatment under ideal conditions. Poorly maintained bluing will fade or flake off. Bluing is a "form of rust", an oxide layer on the outside of the metal. You can remove it using various abrasives, but yes it is permanent.
There are several reasons bluing will not take on a gun. One is it stainless steel. Nope. Two is the bluing solution correct. If so, is the temperature correct, Brownells has bluing info for their solutions., follow these almost perfect. Also to be blued, it must be alloy steel. not pot metal, not cast, just steel. Don't get any brass, copper, zinc or lead in the bluing solution. lcjones
To make Mrs. Stewart's Bluing at home, you will need basic ingredients such as water, laundry bluing agent, and a container for mixing and storing the solution. However, it is recommended to purchase Mrs. Stewart's Bluing directly from the manufacturer to ensure the best results and avoid any potential safety hazards.
Gun Bluing is a chemical that is brushed or rubbed on the metal of the gun. It acts like a die. It can be purchased at most gun stores. The metal has to be stripped and cleaned first then the bluing is applied in even layers to make it darker.
If not a refinish, 500 or so.
aluminium and iron
Birchwood Casey makes a chemical that removes bluing. In addition, Naval Jelly, a popular rust remover, will also remove gun bluing. (Bluing is a form of rust) Be certain that you are dealing with blued steel, and not anodized aluminum. A magnet will not stick to aluminum, but both the Birchwood Casey product and Naval Jelly will corrode aluminum alloy very quickly.
Bluing agents are added to laundry to counteract the yellowing of white fabrics caused by minerals and detergent residue. By reflecting light off of the fabric, bluing agents create an optical effect that makes whites appear brighter and whiter.
Try Brownell's