#4 Screw use a 1/16" Drill #6 Screw use a 3/32" Drill #8 Screw use a 1/8" Drill #10 Screw use a 9/64" Drill #12 Screw use a 11/64" Drill #14 Screw use a 3/16" Drill
In engineering you can use items around the workshop such as posters on info boards or their may already be drill and hole sizes for tap for example a 6.8mm drill bit for a M8 tap on a technical drawing or bend tolerences for the materials thickness.
Use a carbide bit in a drill. Then install plastic anchors where the screws go.
they use it to get the right size of fabric to use
If the wall is made of drywall/sheetrock/gypsum wallboard, use one or more screw anchors. This is a plastic cone that comes with a screw. You drill a hole, push in the plastic cone, and use a screw driver to thread the screw into the anchor. Typically the instructions are on the package of screw anchors. Larger anchors will hold more weight, but the size of screw anchor you can use is limited by the thickness of the drywall, so the thickness of the drywall limits the weight it will support. It might be possible to use multiple anchors, but that might require some calculation and planning. If the wall is not drywall but plaster and lathe, you can use a lag bolt. This is a long threaded rod with a spring-loaded folding wing-like thing that threads on the end. To use it you drill a hole large enough to accommodate the folded wing. Push it through the hole, and the wings expand and grip the inside of the wall. Turn the screw to pull it up tight. For a brick or stone wall, there are special masonry drill bits to drill a hole, and anchors of plastic or metal that go in the hole. These expand to grip the wall when a matching screw is driven in. If the wall is not too thick, you could use a lag bolt like above. For a wood wall, simple wood screws should work. For smooth tile or glass, consider any epoxy adhesive.
Use 7/64 as tap drill and 9/64 as clearance drill
Your meaning is not clear. - If you are going to tap the threads in, use a 7/32 drill bit. If you want a hole that this bolt will slip through, use a 9/32 drill bit.
drill off the head remove whatever it held down use vicegrips to remove the rest becarful not to drill to deep or brake the saft off or youll have to drill and tap out the hole for another size screw
I use a 3/8 bit for tapping fine thread, or a 11/32 for coarse threads.
4.3 is best or a 4.2 but use pleny of oil
You drill the bolt out that is snapped off in the engine,with drill bit made to drill through metal. Then use a thread maker,tap. Auto parts stores carry these. I no u can get at autozone. The tap makes new threads.
If no drill bit this size available, can use EDM service if metal is used
Not unless it was reasonably loose. Usually when faced with this, I drill into the bolt with a very hard drill bit a tiny bit thinner than the bolt - ie if it's a 3/8 bolt, I drill in first with a 1/8 drill to create a guide hole, then after with a 5/16 drill to cut right through, yet not harm the threads. You have to be very careful to stick to an exactly straight course. After the hole is cleared, I pull the threads left from the bolt out as far as I can, then use a 'clearance' tap of bolt size to re-tap the hole.
In engineering you can use items around the workshop such as posters on info boards or their may already be drill and hole sizes for tap for example a 6.8mm drill bit for a M8 tap on a technical drawing or bend tolerences for the materials thickness.
I would use a 5/8 drill bit which is almost exactly 16mm.
I use a 3/16 drill bit for that.
#4 Screw use a 1/16" Drill #6 Screw use a 3/32" Drill #8 Screw use a 1/8" Drill #10 Screw use a 9/64" Drill #12 Screw use a 11/64" Drill #14 Screw use a 3/16" Drill