Yes, a #10 copper conductor with an insulation factor of 75 and 90 degrees C are both rated at 30 amps.
No, this is not a recommended procedure. The breakers main job is to protect the wire that is connected to it. A 20A breaker will have a #12 wire (rated 20A) connected to it. A 30A breaker will have a #10 wire (rated 30A) connected to it. As you can see if you use a 30A breaker on a #12 wire you could overload the wire by 10 amps. I have seen an incident where the insulation has melted off of an overloaded wire, the wire short out and a fire start before the bigger size breaker tripped. DON'T DO IT.
For 10-2 wire, you would typically use a 30-amp breaker. This size breaker is commonly used for 10-gauge wire in residential electrical installations. Make sure to check your local electrical codes and the manufacturer's recommendations for the specific application.
Yes, you need to use a mini breaker panel with a 15A circuit breaker to safely connect a 15A receptacle to a 30A line. The breaker panel will protect the receptacle and wiring from the higher current capacity of the 30A line, preventing potential overheating or damage. It's important to match the amperage of the circuit breaker with the rating of the receptacle to ensure safe electrical operation.
No, for a 50-foot run from the breaker box, 10-3 wire is not heavy enough for a washer-dryer combination. It is recommended to use 8-3 wire for this distance to ensure safe and efficient electrical supply for the appliances.
Installing a 30A 240V GFI breaker for a dryer should be fine as long as the wiring and dryer itself are compatible with the breaker. The GFI breaker is designed to protect against electrical faults and should not be affected by the cycles of the dryer. Make sure to follow the installation instructions carefully to ensure proper functioning.
No, this is not a recommended procedure. The breakers main job is to protect the wire that is connected to it. A 20A breaker will have a #12 wire (rated 20A) connected to it. A 30A breaker will have a #10 wire (rated 30A) connected to it. As you can see if you use a 30A breaker on a #12 wire you could overload the wire by 10 amps. I have seen an incident where the insulation has melted off of an overloaded wire, the wire short out and a fire start before the bigger size breaker tripped. DON'T DO IT.
For 10-2 wire, you would typically use a 30-amp breaker. This size breaker is commonly used for 10-gauge wire in residential electrical installations. Make sure to check your local electrical codes and the manufacturer's recommendations for the specific application.
Yes, you need to use a mini breaker panel with a 15A circuit breaker to safely connect a 15A receptacle to a 30A line. The breaker panel will protect the receptacle and wiring from the higher current capacity of the 30A line, preventing potential overheating or damage. It's important to match the amperage of the circuit breaker with the rating of the receptacle to ensure safe electrical operation.
The recommended wire size for a 30A circuit is typically 10-gauge wire.
No, for a 50-foot run from the breaker box, 10-3 wire is not heavy enough for a washer-dryer combination. It is recommended to use 8-3 wire for this distance to ensure safe and efficient electrical supply for the appliances.
Have an electrician wire you a proper line for the appliance. You were just kidding about the 100A, right? 10, or 20amp, not 100.
A double pole 30 amp breaker can pass 30 amps per pole, therefore #10 wire should be used.
Installing a 30A 240V GFI breaker for a dryer should be fine as long as the wiring and dryer itself are compatible with the breaker. The GFI breaker is designed to protect against electrical faults and should not be affected by the cycles of the dryer. Make sure to follow the installation instructions carefully to ensure proper functioning.
No, when wiring for 220v, you should use a ganged 30A breaker to ensure safe and proper functioning of the circuit. Using two 15A breakers is not recommended as they may not trip simultaneously in an overload situation, potentially causing damage to the circuit or appliances.
Yes, with a caveat. The 50A wire and plug is more than heavy enough for the dryer, so there is no problem there. The possible problem is that the dryer is designed to be protected by a 30A breaker. In the event of failure in the dryer, the breaker may not trip as it is oversized. The best solution? Get a small breaker box from a home center and mount a 30A breaker in it. Mount it on the back of the dryer, run the 50A cord into the feed lugs of the box, and connect the dryer feed to the 30A breaker. This way you can plug the dryer into the 50A outlet like you want, and the dryer is protected with a 30A breaker as usual. You can get small breaker boxes or fused disconnects without too much cost. Just make sure the breaker box / disconnect panel is rated to 50A, as you want to feed it off a 50A circuit. As long as the voltage requirement of the dryer matches the voltage of the outlet (which is presumably 240 volts), then yes. The amp rating of the cord and outlet is merely the maximun current (amps) allowed. You're well under that with 24 amps.
It would have to be a 30 amp breaker to use the full power of the welder. I'd say go with the 30A. The general rule is that your planned load should only be 80% of the circuit capacity. That means a 30A circuit should have a maximum load of of (30*0.8) = 24A. With the 30 amp breaker you must have at least #10 wires feeding the circuit.
Yes you can. It involves working in the breaker box and changing out breakers. You'll also have to "re-identify" the black wire to green for your ground. If you think you can do this, post back and I'll provide details on how. Yes I Can! The fuse box has 2 30amp fuses. At the breaker box you'll need a single 15amp breaker. YOU CANNOT USE THE EXISTING 30AMP BREAKER! Attach the black wire to the new breaker and the white wire to the neutral bus (where all the other whites are attached). You now have a red wire remaining. You'll use this as the ground wire. YOU MUST perform what is called "re-identifying" the wire by wrapping green tape around the wire. This lets someone know that the wire is a ground wire and not a hot wire (red is hot, green is ground). Attach this wire to the ground bus (where all the bare copper wires are). Wiring the GFCI is just like a standard receptacle (black and white on the terminals and your RED (which has now become a ground wire) on the green ground screw. Make sure to wrap the red wire with green tape at the GCFI also! This is very important!