Those should both be hot (black) wires to two separate circuits. Electricity flows into the breaker from the bar that they snap onto and the grounds (white and bare) all go to one grounding bar on the side of the box. If you don't know what you're doing inside the box, please put the cover back on and call someone who does know.
In a typical residential electrical panel, it is not necessary for the total amps capacity to be even on both sides. The metal band connecting two breakers marked at 30 amps each indicates that they are being used as a 240V circuit, not as two separate 30 amp circuits. Therefore, the total amperage for this setup is still 30 amps.
The breaker will trip at the amperage notated on the breaker. If it's 100A...it will trip at or around 100A. It does not matter if that breaker is physically tied to another 100A breaker. To understand this, imagine that you remove the mechanical tie from the two-pole breaker. Now you just have two 100A breakers. In actuality, you always had two 100A breakers. The mechanical tie does not change that. If you then powered two, separate 120 volt devices from the two breakers, each breaker would allow 100 amperes to pass to each of the devices before tripping. So why are they tied together? That is done when the two-pole breaker is to be used to power a 240 volt circuit. In AC current, electricity flows in both directions. In a 120 volt circuit, it flows "out" toward the device via the hot (generally the black wire) and "back" via the neutral (generally the white wire). Then the cycle reverses. It does this 60 times per second (60Hz). The amperage in the hot and neutral wires are the same (in the perfect world). Only the hot wire is connected to the breaker. In a 240 volt circuit, there is no neutral wire. You are using two "legs" of 120 volts each that are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. In other words, as leg 1 is flowing "out", leg 2 is flowing "back". Because they are out of phase, the potential difference is twice the voltage of each line or 240 volts. The current flows out and back at the same 60 Hz but this time via the two hot wires (generally black and red). Each of these hot wires are connected to the two terminals of the two-pole breaker. Due to mechanical tolerances, one breaker will most likely trip before the other. Therefore, if the rated current, (100 amps), is exceeded on either breaker, that breaker will trip and the other breaker will trip via the mechanical tie. This ensures that all power to the outlet is disconnected. If you removed the tie and only one breaker tripped, there would still be 120 volts connected to the outlet. In summary, each leg of a single, double (2 phase) or triple (3 phase) breaker is capable of allowing the amount of current denoted on the breaker. The connected circuit, regardless of voltage is protected from exceeding that amperage.
The breaker should be legibly marked, or the line side will clip onto the bus bar, and the load side should have a termination screw of some kind for you to attach a wire to it. Some bolt in breakers are not marked, the type you may use in a custom control cabinet and it can be confusing. When vertical mounting, always set the breaker so gravity would open the breaker. Attach the line side to the top lugs. Horizontal mounting, just make sure it is marked for the off position, use either end for load or line.
No, the yellow wire from the wall is typically connected to the Y terminal on the thermostat, which is used to control the cooling system. Matching the wire colors ensures the thermostat functions properly to regulate the temperature, rather than directly making the air colder.
Graduated cylinders are typically marked in units of milliliters (mL) or cubic centimeters (cm3). These units help measure the volume of liquid contained within the cylinder.
SOUNDS LIKE A RELAY.THE EASIEST WAY TO CHECK IS TO POP THE HOOD,LOCATE THE RELAYS,AND IF THERE NOT MARKED,CHECK TO MAKE SURE THERE THE SAME AMPERAGE[MARKED THE SAME ON TOP], AND JUST START SWITCHING THEM AROUND.MAKE SURE YOUR KEY IS OFF BETWEEN SWITCHES.
If you have circuit breakers there is a double breaker at the top of the row of breakers marked Main. Flip that one and it shuts the house off. Older houses with fuses have a pull out fuse with two long round fuses in a holder. Pull the holder out and everything is dead. There should be two of these holders in the fuse box. One is the main and the other will be for a stove. The main will be marked Main.
web 3.0
False
Wire a starter.....There are 3 terminals on the solenoid.... 2 Big and 1 little....2 of them are marked on the solenoid (S) and (M) the other may be marked (B)...The (B) is connected to the battery(it's a big terminal) The (S) is a small terminal that is connected to the switch(it will have a small wire)(probably purple) and the (M) terminal will be connected to the starter itself with a short braided wire....
There isn't one. The heavy positive cable goes directly to the starter. The solenoid is what transfers the heavy amperage to the starter. The wire from the ignition goes to the connector marked s.
Red wire is Positive in a car battery. If they are not color coded, find which one is not connected to the chassis and this will be positive.
Lexington, or Concord. The two conflicts are connected and are often listed together.
In a typical residential electrical panel, it is not necessary for the total amps capacity to be even on both sides. The metal band connecting two breakers marked at 30 amps each indicates that they are being used as a 240V circuit, not as two separate 30 amp circuits. Therefore, the total amperage for this setup is still 30 amps.
The simplest synchronous motor has two leads which must be connected to the live and neutral of the correct supply voltage as marked on the motor.
When connecting the red wire to the white wire in a water heater wiring setup, ensure that the red wire is securely connected to the terminal marked for the white wire. It is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and consult a professional if unsure.
n-k-1