At 120 Volts your heater is drawing about 12.5 Amps. If your house only had 120 V then it would draw 13.6 Amps.
Problems could be
1.) Other devices on same circuit.
2.) Internal short in the heating element that reduced resistance and increased current.
3.) Faulty heater in that it really delivers more than 1500 watts because heating elements are less resistance than rating would require.
4.) Faulty breaker.
These are in order of likelihood. You are close enough to the limit of the breaker that it could be any of these things. Typically you should not exceed 80% of the breaker rating and that is just where you are operating.
Your blow heater may be drawing too much power, causing the circuit to overload and trip the breaker. It could also be a sign of a faulty electrical connection or a problem with the heater itself. We recommend having a qualified electrician inspect the heater and wiring to determine the exact cause of the issue.
The load exceeds the limit of the breaker or fuse. For example a 20 amp breaker on a 120 volt circuit will handle 2400 watts. Exceed that wattage and the breaker will trip or the fuse will blow.
Not advisable. Both units consume huge amounts of Amps (amperes = current) and the normal 20 or 30 amp breaker may not sustain prolonged operation of both. Where I live, we have two electric meters ... one just for the water heater, the other for the house and all it's electrical needs (except for the water heater).
No, because if you switch a 50-amp load on, it will blow a 40-amp circuit breaker if the load exceeds 40 amps, which is likely.
The breaker will trip to the off position because of the heat caused by more amps than it is rated for. Only lightening strikes do odd things. And a loose breaker connection can arch causing limited damage to breakers. <<>> Only under extreme circumstances, like a lightning strike to the mast head. Breakers have a current interrupting rating. For a small home distribution breaker rated at 15 amps, it has an maximum RMS symmetrical interruption of 10,000 amperes. The breaker will not blow up but it will stop the current flow up to 10,000 amps. Under normal operation the breaker will trip when it reaches its operational set point, meaning that when the load current goes beyond the breakers rating, which is found on the handle, it will disconnect the circuit load.
alve, check vacum line first (on heater valve)
heater will not blow on a 1996 ford contour
if the heater does not blow out warm air change the setting.
Only if you leave the burners or elements on. -If water stops, close gas line or switch off breaker for tank.
The heater does not blow air because it emits infrared rays that have heat molecules within them, thus releasing heat, not blowing it. A heater does not blow air becasue there is no moving air source within the heater. The heater emits infrered rays that cause heat to slowly flow out of the heater.
Your heater will blow cold air only.
Your blow heater may be drawing too much power, causing the circuit to overload and trip the breaker. It could also be a sign of a faulty electrical connection or a problem with the heater itself. We recommend having a qualified electrician inspect the heater and wiring to determine the exact cause of the issue.
The load exceeds the limit of the breaker or fuse. For example a 20 amp breaker on a 120 volt circuit will handle 2400 watts. Exceed that wattage and the breaker will trip or the fuse will blow.
thermostat, or ots time to flush and fill your anti-freeze. you might also want to check the head gasket
Any heater that only blows luke warm air isn't getting warm or hot water to the coil. This sounds like a problem with the thermostat not closing, and allowing the engine to heat the water properly for the heater.
Check the thermostat or heater core
why doesnt my heater work on my1985 BMW