You would need a 20 amp switch when the load controlled by the switch can draw as much as 20 amps. If you have a 20 Amp breaker supplying the circuit then you need to size all switches and outlets on that circuit to 20 amps.
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A 20-Amp single-pole switch is needed if you are controlling a circuit that has a higher current capacity (20 Amps) compared to a 15-Amp switch. Using a switch with a lower amperage rating than the circuit can handle may cause overheating and potential safety hazards. Always match the switch amperage rating with the circuit's capacity to ensure safe operation.
A 20 Amp single pole switch is needed when the circuit requires higher amperage capacity to safely control the load. Using a 15 Amp switch on a circuit that requires 20 Amps could lead to overheating and potential fire hazards. Always match the switch's amperage rating with the circuit's requirements for safety and proper functionality.
Yes, what you are looking for is a double pole double throw switch. The center lugs are connected to the incoming line. Then the top lugs could be connected to the electric heater and the bottom lugs connected to the condenser. The trouble lies in finding a switch with a rating of 20 amps. These types of switches are usually used with a stand-by generator and rated at 100A and greater. Think I remember seeing one at 60A once. You might want to think of using a DPDT relay rated at 30A with a 120 volt coil. With a switch to operate it the relay. Depends in what part of the country you live, long winters switch off for heater, long summers switch off for conderser.
If a single pole switch is reconnected to become a master switch, it would gain the ability to control multiple light fixtures or electrical outlets. This means that flipping the switch on or off would control power to all connected devices simultaneously, offering a centralized control point.
To set a dip switch, you can flip the switch either up or down. For example, setting a dip switch to "on" would mean flipping it to the up position, while setting it to "off" would be in the down position.
Its called a bi-metallic switch, which switches off when the kettle boils, as the switch is made from two layers of different metals, which expand at different rates when heated, which causes the sandwich of the two metals to "bend" when it heats up.