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150
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∙ 12y ago
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Is 150 composite?
Yes.
What does 50x3 equal?
50 x 3 = 150
What are the 50 times table?
50x1=50 And just keep adding 50 50x2=100 50x3=150 50x4=200 50x5=250 50x6=300 50x7=350 50x8=400 50x9=450 50x10=500 50x11=550 50x12=600
How do you figure out 3 quarters?
3/4 = 0.75 = 75% 3/4 is basically the same as saying 3x 1/4 So you just have to find 1 quarter (divide by 4) and then multiply this answer by 3. i.e. 3/4 of 200= 200/4=50 50x3=150
What is next in this series 1 4 10 19 21?
34 because differences going up is 3 then 6 then 9 then 11 so then its 13+21=34 * * * * * And since when is 3, 6, 9, 11 a sequence? of any kind? One possible solution is t(n) = (-5x4 + 50x3 - 157x2 + 232x - 108)/12 n = 1, 2, 3, ... then t(6) = -4
How do you build 49cc mini chopper?
In short, the same as you would build any bike, but using less metal and with fewer complications! This won't be a quick answer, so you might want to save it to disk for reference later!The methods described here can be applied to the construction of any size or shape of bike or, indeed, any other kind of vehicle.Tools:The list of tools could go on forever. You could have every tool under the sun and still not have the one you need most! These are the basic essentials...There are a few basic tools you will need to take on a project like this. If you don't want to buy them you can usually rent them from tool or plant-hire companies. If you are unfamiliar with welding equipment it is probably best that you buy your own welder or borrow one from someone you know, as it can take some time to learn the necessary skills. Cheap machines won't last long or give top quality results but will afford you enough experience to produce adequate results. The benefits of owning a decent quality welder, however, are too many to list if you know how to use it properly. Either way, a welding machine is the most important thing you will need.A steel saw is always handy. There are many types but bandsaws are the most common and can be purchased relatively inexpensively. Alternatively, a 115mm Angle grinder will cut everything you need for this project.A sturdy workbench with a vice mounted securely on it is an absolute must have, both for convenience and safety reasons. (Holding a piece of metal still whilst trying to cut it is a recipe for disaster, especially if you are inexperienced!)A pillar drill and set of clamping tools (there are many different types of clamping devices, all of which are usefull for this kind of work). At the very least, you'll need a hand drill and conversion stand. Fix the base to the workbench if at all possible.A perfectly flat surface on which to square the bike frame as you build it. This can be a sheet of steel laid on your workbench if you do not have a steel fabrication table. Minimum thickness should be 6mm. You will need an area of at least 1.5 metres square (not the same as 1.5 square metres). Bolt the steel to the workbench to prevent it moving. If for any reason it falls off the table it could really hurt your tootsies...On that note, you should make sure you have some good quality protective gear. Leather gauntlets or foundry gloves, some goggles and a welding helmet / goggles are an absolute must. No point building the thing if you blind yourself in the process or can't feel your hands for burns / missing fingers!Clamps: you will probably need a few of these. Four good quality G-Clamps are the minimum but it's advisable to have a set comprising many. Spreader Clamps are also very handy for working with tube such as what you will make the frame from.Taps & Dies: A basic set of metric Taps and Dies can be purchased for as little as £15 sterling. They wont last long but will do the job. Such sets usually contain the most common metric threads needed for this kind of job.Finally, some decent marking tools: a steel rule, tape measure, adjustable angle measure and set square are essential. Tailors chalk is best for marking steel but a graphite pencil or fineline marker will do.Materials:50x3 Mild Steel tube. Box Section is also suitable, but if your design incorporates any bends, tube is prefered. A forming tool is required if this is the case. 3mm Mild Steel plate. Used for various tabs & lugs. Can be cut from 3mm sheet or purchased in varying widths.40x40x3 Mild Steel angle. Used in short lengths for jigging the frame. Also handy for creating locator ears, battery seats, etc.Parts:It helps to have all the parts, such as lights, indicators, fairings, reservoirs, etc to hand as you are building the vehicle. This will allow you to offer them up to their desired locations to get an idea of how to best secure them to the frame. It also keeps you thinking about everything you have to remember to account for in the construction. If you are building the vehicle to a specific design you may already know exactly where everything goes. If not, the very least of your worries should be to have the engine on hand, since this is what the bike will be built around. (Bikes should be built around engines... modifying an engine to fit a bike is like carving a mountain into a chess piece!)Blueprints, Dimensions & Cutting lists:If you do have a design in mind, make a "hard" copy of it. All dimensions, including hole sizes / locations & threads should be clearly marked on the drawing. From this you can create a cutting list of materials. Where the frame is concerned, the less cuts the better. Keep this in mind when deciding exactly how to create the desired shape. Clip all your blueprints & design specs on a clipboard or pin them to the wall. They'll be harder to loose and ever handy when you need to refer to them. Designing a frame:This is arguably the hardest part of building anything in metal. Those with a pre-determined design can skip this part. Those without one should read on. First you need to find a suitable engine. Once you have one you can start figuring out how the frame will carry it, or whether it should become a stressed frame member (The latter is only a real consideration in full-scale bike building.)Set the engine up on wooden blocks or a makeshift support so that it sits roughly how it would in the bike. It will help to have a load of "usefull" junk lying around that you can improvise for the various parts of the bike at this point. Remember back to being a child and making "busses" from rows of chairs... this is what you're aiming for You could use a coat hanger for the handlebars for example! The idea is to create a very rough mock-up of what the bike will look like and to give you an idea of things like seating position, wheelbase and ride-height. It's not important whether your mock-up looks like a chair with an engine under it and a couple of dustbin lids attached to either end of a broom handle with gaffer tape! Whats important is what it all represents. You really have to use your imagination here, and yes, chances are anyone who sees you doing this will think you have gone barking mad!Once you are happy with the layout of your pretend bike you can start taking measurements. This part isn't critical to the millimetre but be as precise as you dare. Engine mount locations ARE critical, however... be sure to get those right! Measure EVERYTHING! How far from wheel-centre to wheel centre? Where are the footpegs in relation to (???)... Make a rough drawing and write all your measurements on it as you go.When you have a finished rough drawing, go over it in detail. Check you haven't forgotten anything. You might want to spend a couple of days (or longer) just thinking about everything. If you're too hasty you'll be halfway through the build by the time you realise you've made a fatal mistake! Remake the drawing & change the dimensions as often as necessary to make everything fit. When you're happy with what you have in front of you, make a neat drawing and label everything clearly.When creating your design the most important issues to take into account are the following:How will the engine mount into the frame?How will the steering column be attached to the frame?Will your bike be a hardtail? If not, how will you construct the swinging arm and suspension mounts?What kind of suspension will the front wheel have?Brake mountings?It's advisable to study an existing bike for ideas of how these things (and more) are commonly done.Recording the build:As with any work, it never hurts to take photos of the job as it progresses. Even if it's only for your own benefit, to look back on later when the job is finished. For vehicles, a photo-record is also something you can add to the maintenance folder. If you ever come to sell the thing, the person who buys it will love to see how it was made! Cutting the steel:If you can get this part right first time you're already halfway there!This is the first practical step in building your bike, and it is the most critical. Follow your cutting list to the letter. If using an Angle grinder to cut the steel, take your time and get it right; skew-iff cuts look awful and make for undesirable dimensions in the finished article! The three golden rules to cutting anything are: 1) Measure it first, 2) MEASURE it FIRST, and 3) MEASURE IT FIRST!Any holes required should be drilled before the steel is cut and DEFINITELY before it gets welded into place! Pistol drilling 3mm steel is no fun! The installation of a thread (as necessary) is possible when the piece is in place but is better done with the piece off the frame.Mark or label each piece as you cut it so you know where it goes when you come to the next part...Jigging the frame:This part can be tricky for larger builds, but for something this size it should be fairly straightforward. Using bits of angle-iron and your G-clamps or Spreader Clamps, you are aiming to "lay out" the frame in three dimensions using your cut steel. NOTHING gets welded yet!When you have your frame "laid out", check all the angles to make sure everything is square. Don't make the mistake of thinking that everything will STAY square until you weld it... things always move. Check everything as you go.NOW you can grab the welder and, working methodically one piece at a time and checking angles for movement as you proceed, tack weld each section in place. A tac weld is just a "blob" of weld used to hold everything in position. Three evenly spaced tacks around the circumference of a bit of tube will stop it moving in any direction.Bear in mind that when metal is welded (even just tack welded) that it changes shape and contorts slightly. Check angles after every tack and adjust gently as required. A Sash-Clamp is usefull for this. If need be, the weld can be cut through with an angle grinder in order to reposition a section.Welding it all together:By this time you should have gotten in plenty of practice at welding. If not then go and get some now. Don't expect to become an expert overnight; it can take years to learn to weld well. Ignore advice such as "Practice doesn't make perfect welds... PERFECT practice makes perfect welds" ... this is a common high-ground for fabricators to take and is not true. There is no such thing as perfect practice. Ask someone skilled in welding to coach you. They can at least tell you when you are doing something right and you can improve your skills from there. Good hand-eye co-ordination, spatial awareness and bags of patience are all that is required. When everything is tacked in place, check all the angles and measurements for a final time before welding up all the sections proper. It might help to brace the engine mounts prior to welding the frame, to avoid any unwanted distortion.Remove all the clamps and bits of Angle bracket when you are finished. Check all the angles and measurements just to be on the safe side... and voila; you have built yourself a bike!Painting it and fitting all the parts is all that remains. By this point you will know the bike inside out and should know exactly where everything goes. Refer to your drawings and notes as necessary.Enjoy your new bike!
