500
2x250 4x125 5x100 10x50 and 20x25
50x10;; 250x2;; 125x4;; 100x5;; 500x1;; 25x20
really depends on the size of the unit but if your not sure i would go with a 20x20 or a 20x25 filterback grill..
20 meters wide. 20X25 = 500 square meters
Multiply the two dimensions to get the area. In this case the calculation gives you 500 square feet.
let me try to understand what you mean; 20ft x 25ft area to be covered by 6"x6" pavers 20x25 is 500sq ft. 6"x6" is .25sq ft. 500/.25= 2000
Total weight of fabric = 1 sqr meter warp + 1 sqr meter weft Total weight of fabric = 60/20 x 25 + 60/20 x25Total weight of fabric = 150 GSM.60/20x25+60/30x25 Total weight of fabric =125 gsm
You'll have to look at your local home improvment store for that. Lumber pricing is different around the country and they can help you out with how much you would need for your size room.
What you are refering to is called a return filter grill and there are tons to chose from, ( from ) tons of places. Home Depot, Lowes, and the likes of these places or your Heating Air/Conditioner Wholesaler close to your area. Also try typing in Central Air Return Air Filter Grills in your search bar. The Bigger the better is the rule of thumb with return air filter grills to a reasonable point . 600 cubic feet a minute is what I design air flow quantity for on my basic stuff. It is my opinion you are better off with a less expensive filter and a slower flow rate design through your return air filter grill than to use a expensive but usually highly restrictive filter in a smaller return air filter grill that is already restrictive in itself. Don't take me wrong here!!!!! ( Those Super High Quality Return Air Filters are Wonderful , usually ), Just make sure you have plenty big enough filter grill return area size to accomadate them in your system. Hope this helps: Jimiwane
Most building codes require engineering on structural issues that do not meet the definition of CONVENTIONAL DESIGN. I suggest that you get an engineer to evaluate the structure before you make any modifications. You may also need to obtain a local building permit.If you have a pole supporting a room don't just rip it out!!!!!You will have to check to see which way the ceiling joists run, and then install either a flush beam or an exposed beam that spans from wall to wall perpendicular to the ceiling joists. it is important that the load transfer to the foundation, so you will need to open the walls where the beam will sit and pack the them with 2X4's studs (from the top plate down to the sill plate) also make sure that the point load is carried to the foundation below (squash blocks). Good luck but call a Licensed Carpenter to assist you.If there's a "pole", I can only assume there must be a beam already. My guess is that the beam is not large enough to clear span the distance. Contact an engineer to decide the sufficient size beam upgrade.>>>>>>>>>>>If cost is going to be a factor I suggest not doing it at all. However, if you wish to save a bit of money on the design hire a draftsman. They are cheaper and usually have an engineer check their work. We did this on our home. But depending on where your beam is its going to be rather large to replace with a self supporting one.Our beam spans 27 feet and is 9 inches wide by 18 inches deep...29 feet long.>>>>>>>>>>>The most cost effective way to remedy this may be to field modify your roof framing into a truss system by securing cross-members along the rafters and ceiling joists with bolts and fastening plates. It still has to be designed by an architect or engineer. I've found it's often easier to install a number of small, light pieces inside the ceiling than a large, heavy, visible beam below it.