Im not sure what you mean by a pure rod, but if you are talking about a solid rod, which is simply a cylinder, you can calculate its area as follows: πDL+(πR²)2 Which is pi times the diameter times the length plus pi times the radius squared multiplied by 2.
Rod Stewart was born in 1945.
1 bundle 10mm ms rod= how many rod
The original answer (below) was off by a factor of 3, a surveyor's rod = 5.5 yards. So (2 yards)/(5.5 yards/rod) = 4/11 rod or about 0.364 rod.This is the original answer refers to fencing rod, but this is actually 5.5 yards (not feet) as originally stated. I found reference to an 80 rod roll equal to 1320 feet (see link).
An electrified rod attracts the pieces of paper after a while the papers fly away because of the exchange of the charges between the rod and the pieces of papers.
Using a 6010 welding rod on an AC welding machine can result in less stable arc performance, higher spatter levels, and potential difficulty in controlling the weld pool due to the rod's specific characteristics. It is recommended to use a 6010 welding rod with a DC welding machine for optimal performance.
to make sure the moisture is out of the rod.
7018 structural 6010 root, 7018 cover for pipe
I run vertical up welds on pipe every day with these rods on a root pass.
6010 is intended for DC welding. It has no additives in the covering to keep the arc going each time the AC voltage reverses, so it is very hard to keep the arc struck. The result is usually poor quality welds. The solution is to switch to a rod designed for AC, such as 6013.
the rod will be stronger, but will break, the cable will bend under force, but not break. the rod has more tensile and shear strength.
6010 penetrates deeper than 7018 does. It is a "fast freeze" rod - the puddle solidifies quickly. There's not much slag and it chips off easily. It also requires DC electrode-positive polarity. If you have an AC-only welder like a Lincoln AC-225, get 6011 which is almost the same rod but it will run on either AC or DC. Most guys who use 6010-series rods are welding pipe. Guys who weld bridge decking grab this rod first because of its penetration. 7018 is a rod with low-hydrogen flux. It produces a LOT prettier weld than the 6000-series rods do, but it's got to be stored in a rod oven because moisture in the air changes the way it welds. These are generally used for structural welding. These are two of the most general-purpose rods out there.
it dependsif your going virticle down i would set it at about 100 amps but if your going flat or horizontal i would crank it up to about 125 amps
toa mata head: take a 2 plus rod and put a plus rod connector on it and put it on the eyes.then, take a 5 plus rod and put it on the side of the hand and push the rod through the mouth while the hand is on a carpeted floor.add some pressure and, BOOM its out. toa metru/piraka head: take out the plus rod toa inika head: connect plus rod to bottom of head and take off by chin
use a xx1x electrode such as a 6010 or 7018. i like around 77-82 amps for a 6010. point the rod about 5 degrees down and do small circles up while watching your puddle to maintain a consistent bead. start your tie ins a half inch above where you finished then quickly work your way back down to tie in and continue your progress up.
A ferromagnetic rod inside a solenoid will enhance the strength of the electromagnet by increasing the magnetic field within the solenoid. The presence of the rod aligns more magnetic domains, resulting in a stronger magnetic field overall.
No, as in this case,the rod is the magnet,and the strength of a magnet does not depend on its size.