You need to calculate how much the total current is likely to be at any moment. It's probable that the total load will be less than the sum of the individual breakers, 200 amps, but how much less depends on local conditions.
To answer this question, the time use of each breaker has to be stated. If all of the breakers are to be on at one time and operated at near to 100% capacity, the sub panel breaker would need to be 200 amp.
yes. But this is not a handyman level project. It is suggested you "Call a pro." What you're looking for is not another "main breaker" but a "sub-panel" that is fed by a "feeder" cable from the main panel. Have your electrician calculate the load you'll need in the out-building, then design and install a new feeder circuit and sub-panel for it.
The provisioning of the breakers in a panel has a physical limitation regarding how many breakers will fit and a load calculation based on what devices the panel has to support. Your question really applies to both types of breakers. There are rules of thumb for sizing and populating the panel. This information is in the National Electric Code. If you have an existing panel and a new application requiring additional breakers for 220 Volt applications, the current draw in panel can be measured by an electrician and you will know what additional load you can support. If breakers fit physically in the panel, but connected devices exceed the total current capacity you will trip the main panel breaker. At this point you would need to get an electrician involved.
If by "60 amp box" you mean a 60-amp service panel (circuit breakers or fuses), you would generally get a 60-A panel that has several slots designed to accept a variety of compatible breakers, from 15A to 60A. If you have a "box" with no breakers, you would need another "subpanel", with wires from the 60A box to the new subpanel, and install one or more 15A breakers in the subpanel. If you don't need more than one breaker, you might also simply use a 15A disconnect panel with a single breaker in it.
That depends on the manufacturer of the breaker panel. Some manufacturers sell dual breakers that can be plugged in where one of your single breakers are now. You can also do an audit of current panel, ideally by a qualified electrician. You may have unused or underused circuits. For example if you had two 15A circuits that had a maximum aggregate usage of 5A, you could splice those circuits external to the main panel in a junction box (and wire to one breaker) and use the leftover breaker for your new circuit. In any solution you need to ensure that your panel service is compatible with the loads in your house. In some cases you may need to increase the size of your panel. Consult an electrician and ask for a free estimate.
Total amps or calculated load has nothing to do with the number of breakers and their sizes. It is more complicated than adding the sum of the breakers, if you do that you will see that they would exceed 200 amps.It is based on square footage for the general receptacle and lighting loads,3000 watts is allowed for small appliances and this is just the beginning.Some experienced electricians have trouble with the calculations.If you are trying to see if you have enough capacity for an addition or some upgraded equipment,and you have breaker space,the chances are you will be O.K. Overloading the service would cause the main to trip.
First you need to determine if addition of the new breakers will exceed the 200A service under normal operating conditions. If so you will need to go to power company and increase service and put in a larger main panel. If you have the capacity for the extra current you can add a sub-panel and add the breakers there as well as the breakers you will remove from main panel to accommodate the sub-panel breaker. Another way depends on what breakers are in current panel. There are some breakers that can be duplexed in the same space as a single breaker.
You can swap a single breaker for two mini breakers or you can add a sub-panel. If you only need a couple of extra circuits then just add mini-breakers.
If the main breaker has ground fault detection, and the fault is a ground fault, then only the main may trip. Also if the fault is a direct short, the fault current may be several thousand amps, much greater than the trip point of both breakers. Breakers have an I^2T curve (current squared-time), which is an indication of how fast the breaker will trip at a given overload. When both breakers are overloaded, the breaker with the faster I^2T rating at that current level will trip first. This would be an indication that the breakers are improperly specified or adjusted.
yes. But this is not a handyman level project. It is suggested you "Call a pro." What you're looking for is not another "main breaker" but a "sub-panel" that is fed by a "feeder" cable from the main panel. Have your electrician calculate the load you'll need in the out-building, then design and install a new feeder circuit and sub-panel for it.
Breakers do not need routine maintenance. If the distribution panel is in an environment that allows dust or dirt to build up on the breaker faces, wipe the breakers with a dry cloth. If the distribution panel has a door on the panel face keep it closed.
I don't understand the question, please restate.
Sizing what goes into a 200 amp panel whether it be split breakers or normal size breakers is based on the amperage values expected under normal use of the devices connected to the panel. For example if you could look at a continuous curve of usage you would see it vary throughout the day. This is because under normal living conditions you use you lights and appliances at different time. If you started to trip the main 200 amp breaker and the other breakers weren't tripping then you would need to increase your service from power company and add a new main panel. So giving you a count isn't possible. You could call in an electrician to measure your usage or just add the breakers you need and see if the main breaker trips.
The sum of the breakers in a panel exceeds the rating of the main breaker in almost all applications. This is because of the design usually anticipates that all devices won't operate at once or at full load. So if you had 100 Amp service and you had ten 20 Amp breakers each happily drawing 15 amps that would be 150 Amps and the main would trip. You need to heavy up your service.
The provisioning of the breakers in a panel has a physical limitation regarding how many breakers will fit and a load calculation based on what devices the panel has to support. Your question really applies to both types of breakers. There are rules of thumb for sizing and populating the panel. This information is in the National Electric Code. If you have an existing panel and a new application requiring additional breakers for 220 Volt applications, the current draw in panel can be measured by an electrician and you will know what additional load you can support. If breakers fit physically in the panel, but connected devices exceed the total current capacity you will trip the main panel breaker. At this point you would need to get an electrician involved.
If by "60 amp box" you mean a 60-amp service panel (circuit breakers or fuses), you would generally get a 60-A panel that has several slots designed to accept a variety of compatible breakers, from 15A to 60A. If you have a "box" with no breakers, you would need another "subpanel", with wires from the 60A box to the new subpanel, and install one or more 15A breakers in the subpanel. If you don't need more than one breaker, you might also simply use a 15A disconnect panel with a single breaker in it.
That depends on the manufacturer of the breaker panel. Some manufacturers sell dual breakers that can be plugged in where one of your single breakers are now. You can also do an audit of current panel, ideally by a qualified electrician. You may have unused or underused circuits. For example if you had two 15A circuits that had a maximum aggregate usage of 5A, you could splice those circuits external to the main panel in a junction box (and wire to one breaker) and use the leftover breaker for your new circuit. In any solution you need to ensure that your panel service is compatible with the loads in your house. In some cases you may need to increase the size of your panel. Consult an electrician and ask for a free estimate.
Yes you do. The detached garage will either be fed with a single circuit or a sub panel. The wire feeding the garage will need to be protected and that is the purpose of the breaker (disconnect). The breaker size will be determined by the size of the wire that is used on this circuit.